Oil pump priming access

[TulsaFred]

Are one or both of these bolts to provide access to the oil pump for priming?:

as you can see, one faces superiorly/upward, and the other faces laterally/outward. Both look like they would provide access to the oilway leading from the pick up tube to the oil pump, and be above the level of the pump for priming.

Thanks for any help!
Fred

 

[Spridget64SC]

Fred:

The bolt head facing up towards the top of the block will access the oil pump suction side. Small 1/4"-5/16" sized hole into the oil pump pick up port. Should have a copper sealing washer under the head. Very fine threaded fitting. 1/8" BSP I believe.

The larger bolt head facing away from the engine towards the driver's side footwell is a block drain, from the water passage around #4 cylinder. No access to the oil galley's from there. 1/4" BSP fitting here. Sealing washer too.

Better way to prime the pump is to squirt some oil down the oil pump discharge/pressure port on the passenger side of the engine. Remove the banjo bolt from the oil outlet and squirt a 50/50 mix of 20w50 Valvoline VR-1 and STP down the passage till full. Let sit for a bit and fill again. Do this a couple to 3 times before spinning engine for oil pressure before starting. The 50/50 mix makes a good "poor-mans" assembly lube too. Straight STP can be brushed on the bearings before laying in crank or installing rod caps. Squirting the oil in the outlet will allow the oil to drain down the passage into the pump, around the rotor and out the suction of the pump into the pan. Also, a very little will drain out the very small squirt hole on the oil pump itself into the rear cam bearing. The rear cam bearing get a little oil directly from the oil pump as it rotates since there is not a pressurized oil galley port drilled to it in the block.

Thanks a bunch for the helpful hints on inserting pictures. Let me know if I can help you with anything assembly-wise on the engine. I build/rebuild anywhere from 6 to 12 engines a year and always have one taken apart and on the stand at a given time.

Mike Miller

 

[Hap Waldrop]

I do the same Mike does, excpet I just use whatever motor oil I'm using in the engine and I turn the engine over backward by hand this draws the oil into the pump, I stick a small funnel in the orfice with the fitting/hose removes, you see the oil being sucked into the over by turning the engine backwards, or CCW by hand. I'm building two of these little buggers myself right now for customers right now as well, a stage 1 street engine and SCCA LP 1275 race engine.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Can someone edit and add an arrow or a circle around the bolt you are referring to?

 

[TulsaFred]

3 1/2 years late, but I was reading up on my oil pump issues and learning how to annotate photos at the same time! Maybe someone searching this topic will get some help from this...LOL

 

[Rut]

Fred,
where you been? We need an update!
Rut

 

[TulsaFred]

Too many projects and the pesky rest of life getting in the way.On the plus side, I just finished my new 60x44 shop so I'll have plenty of room to work!
I'll be getting back to the Bugeye this spring. Just bought one of Gerard's rear oil seals to fit to my refreshed 1275.
I'll post an update with some pics!

 

[TulsaFred]

back to the oil pump...
While going to install my awesome new oil seal kit (thanks Gerard!), I wanted to make sure I don't have any other rear engine leaks. Looking over the rear of the block, there is a little drip coming from the bottom of the oil pump. I can't remember how I installed this now, but is it supposed to seal "oil tight" to the block, or is this little oil drip normal?

 

[Gerard]

back to the oil pump...
While going to install my awesome new oil seal kit (thanks Gerard!), I wanted to make sure I don't have any other rear engine leaks. Looking over the rear of the block, there is a little drip coming from the bottom of the oil pump. I can't remember how I installed this now, but is it supposed to seal "oil tight" to the block, or is this little oil drip normal?

Yes, there is a deliberate cutout which is a vent to allow oil to return to the sump. There is no sealant required for the gasket that is used there. However, there is a metal cover that goes over the pump. That cover must be well sealed on both sides or you will have a leak from the back of the engine from it. In case you think I’m stating the obvious, I have seen several engines assembled without the cover, so thought I should mention it, just in case yours might be missing.

Also, make sure the rear mounting plate does not have any cracks in it. The will sometimes fracture between the hole for the oil pump and the opening for the crank.

Lastly, make sure that the crank flange where the seal will ride is without any blemishes, scratches, etc., and is well polished.