oil filter change procedure

[nevets]

the AH manual says remove the long bolt from the canister, but that guy from California whose name rhymes with shock says to first remove the fixture to which the canister is mounted (two bolts). I do it the way the AH manual recommends. I tried it the other way and ruined a paper gasket in the process. jsut wondering how others do it...

 

[Keoke]

Like the guy in California suggested.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Dave Russell]

I tend to agree with K. There are just too many washers, springs, loose parts to get back exactly right. If any of the bits are out of place, the filter won't actually filter anything.

On the other hand, it's hard to go wrong with a screw on filter/adapter & no loose parts to get in the wrong places.
D

 

[ronzet]

nevets,
I agree with Dave. I purchased a spin-on adaptor for the 100-6 from Moss that makes the procedure very easy and much less messy. You may get dinged in Concours points but the engine will thank you for the better filter element anyway.

You might check the thread last week that I had on the Forum about a small modification to make it fit correctly.

Ron
Ron

 

[DerekJ]

I use the original canister with a modern cylindrical Fram filter inside it. I just undo the long bolt as mentioned in the manual and slot in a new filter cartridge.

 

[Keoke]

[ QUOTE ]
I use the original canister with a modern cylindrical Fram filter inside it. I just undo the long bolt as mentioned in the manual and slot in a new filter cartridge.

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Prolly not working correctly at all /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif and messy! Oh My Gosh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[DerekJ]

Prolly is

 

[Ed Kaler]

Keoke said:
[ QUOTE ]
Prolly not working correctly at all

[/ QUOTE ]

And Derek Said:

[ QUOTE ]
Prolly is

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry Derek, but if all the PARTS are not in the cannister... AIN'T.

As a side note, Fram is the single WORST "filter" on the market!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif

I stock that paper gasket by the dozens 'cause it is the ONLY way to change the filter!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angel.gif $0.50=CHEAP /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed

 

[DerekJ]

Just out of interest how do you KNOW Fram is the single worst filter on the market?

Have you tested the inside of all the engines they are installed on?

Amazing they are still in business

 

[shorn]

I think what Dave and K refer to is if the pressure plate, element plate, sealing ring, plain washer, felt washer, and spring are not present inside the canister and IN the CORRECT ORDER, with the proper size oil filter, the engine oil will simply enter the canister and exit it without properly flowing through the filter itself. When I purchased my BJ8 and first changed the oil, I noticed that whoever last changed the filter had both plates stuck together at the rear of the canister, and w/o the washers. Needless to say, the filter probably wasn't working very effectively.
As for Fram filters, use the search feature to find some interesting info on oil filters. Basic Fram spin on filters don't seem to rate too well. Wix and Napa are good. Also Fram makes a Tough Guard Spin on that is better (more expensive than the basic Fram). The rating has more to do with the construction of the canister and it's ability to hold oil when the engine is shut down so that oil is present at start up w/o undue delay. However, the ratings also take into account the filter material and amount of actual material in the element.

 

[shorn]

go to www.minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html for a review of oil filters. K & N is also a good one.

 

[Ed Kaler]

[ QUOTE ]
go to www.minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html for a review of oil filters. K & N is also a good one.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks, Skip!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Couldn't find in "in short order" when I replied!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed

 

[DerekJ]

Shorn

Thanks for the detailed explanation, I'll investigate this further. The PO was an experienced hot rodder who did a complete engine rebuild , re-bored, new pistons etc, so I assumed he knew what he was doing with the filter. I guess the question is - how efficiently is the oil flowing through the filter with this set up?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif Spin ons are no doubt the most efficient way to go but I just don't like the look of them in the engine bay. ditto Lucas Sport Coils.

 

[shorn]

DerekJ,
I, too, like the idea of maintaining the originality, especially where visible like the oil filter. What finally changed my mine was an oil change about a year ago. Although it is difficult to remove the canister w/o dumping part of the contents on the garage floor, I would use a catch pan and that wasn't so bad. But on this one oil change where I thought I had been real careful reattaching the canister, I found the real difficulty. The canister looked centered and I tightened the bolt, proceeded to start the engine, and immediately looked to see if there were any leaks. In the short time that it took to start the car, get out and look at the filter, and reach over the passenger door to shut off the engine, THREE quarts of oil had been deposited on my garage floor. Had I not checked for a leak with due diligence, almost all of the oil would have been pumped out. I obviously messed up attaching the canister which was my fault /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif, but then switched to the spin on adapter to avoid the mistake in the future. For those still using the original, I suggest having someone directly looking at the filter on the initial start up to avoid my mistake. I just didn't realize how fast the oil would leak out in a matter of just a few seconds.

 

[nevets]

Shorn
I had a similar experience, and yes 30+ psi will deposit a lot of oil on your garage floor in a hurry. I ususally use a mirror to check that the rubber gasket is properly seated before I screw on the canister, then check after mounting the canister, again with a mirror. My resistance to the spin-on filter is based totally on looks. It's interesting to note that my 2004 Mini has a canister type filter (as do all modern German cars)...because it's more earth-friendly.

 

[Keoke]

Hi Nevets, if you break the filter assy at the midpoint joint you can then clean it, fit the filter/sealing ring correctly and you will not encounter any failure problems. You will be able to place the unit on the bench where it can be easily viewed and assembled.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[DerekJ]

Shorn

Just a thought, with that same pressure can we not assume that the oil will be forced through an modern filter insert?

 

[shorn]

Yes, if the placement of all the internal parts is correct and the size of the filter is correct, so the flow of oil is as designed. If however, let's say the element plate is left out, will the oil flow through the filter as it should or around it?
That said, as long as you have the correct internal parts, and you do the filter change, not Jiffy Lube (if you have such an entity there) use it. I just find the spin on to be easier.

 

[DerekJ]

Just to return to the original poster's question.

I was looking in a 1957 Service Manual for the 100-Six. Every 6000 miles it recommends changing the filter and says

'...not forgetting to top up the filter container with new oil before refitting the head casting on the engine crankcase.'

This would seem to confirm that the whole assembly should be removed

 

[Keoke]

[ QUOTE ]
Just to return to the original poster's question.

I was looking in a 1957 Service Manual for the 100-Six. Every 6000 miles it recommends changing the filter and says

'...not forgetting to top up the filter container with new oil before refitting the head casting on the engine crankcase.'

This would seem to confirm that the whole assembly should be removed

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes I think that is true. However, I do not recommend their reinstallation procedure.This creates the same potential messy problem that can arise when removing the filter initially. Rather reassemble it dry on to the car.Then with the ignition off crank the engine until you have oil pressure showing on the guage.You may now start your engine and rest assured that the filter's container is full and does not leak.---Fwiw--Keoke