T-Series MGB GT Clutch Won't Release

[DavidMVA]

I have a 1971 MGB GT and the clutch won't release, any simple suggestions or do I need to get it towed back to the shop? DMASUCK@AOL.COM

 

[dklawson]

Do you mean the friction plate is frozen to the flywheel so you can't put it in gear from a stop or do you mean you can't depress the pedal?

If it's the former and the car has been sitting for a long period without being driven the friction plate can rust to the flywheel making it impossible to put the car in gear once started in neutral. The solution is to roll the car to a location that is level and that you can drive a short distance (straight and safely). Put the car in second gear and press the clutch pedal to the floor. Start the engine and the car will immediately take off. Keep holding the clutch down and give the car a LOT of gas to accelerate. You want to put load on the clutch. With patience and luck you will be rewarded with a loud "BANG" as the clutch frees itself. Immediately take your foot off the gas and drive the car as normal.

I've had this problem off and on for years with a VW. Finally, on the Triumph part of this forum, someone suggested the fix for cars that sit for long periods like this. Use a board or similar to hold the clutch pedal depressed while the car is sitting idle for long periods. This is great for the VW which has a cable clutch. It should work on hydraulic clutches as long as they don't slowly leak down.

 

[DrEntropy]

Ummm.... just a humble opinion based on experience but: hydraulic systems *will* bleed down eventually using the prop on the pedal. The same thing has happened with many cars ( and of different makes) in my past and it seems to help if you FIRST run the car up to operating temp in neutral, then proceed to find said level area... use second gear, start 'er onna key with clutch depressed (after ascertaining there's full movement of the clutch fork with clutch depression, ruling out hydraulic failure as the culprit) and accelerate... if said "BANG" is missing after a few attempts, a short, sharp "STAB" or two onna brake pedal (clutch still on th' board) while under way should produce the desired traumatising result. Very disconcerting but effective.

CAUTIONARY STATEMENT: This proceedure WILL stress driveline components and may result in the necessity to replace worn or weak U-joints. Just a "heads-up."

 

[sparkydave]

I agree with the doctor, the hydraulics will bleed down eventually if you try to leave the clutch released for a long time, and brake fluid does nasty things to paint if it leaks out where it shouldn't. If the clutch is frozen, then the methods above should free it up. The other possibility is the clutch hydraulics may be having problems. It may have air that needs to be bled, or if it's got a bad seal somewhere that would do it. How's the fluid level in the master cylinder? If it's low (or empty) then it may need some repairs.
-Dave

 

[dklawson]

I haven't ever tried the pedal block method on cars with hydraulic clutches. I suspected that they would leak down over time. It's been literally 20 years since I've worked on a "B" so I don't remember where the throw out arm is and if it's even accessible. If you can get to it, perhaps a wedge could be placed in there to hold the plates apart while in storage. If this is possible... certainly a toe-tag or other flag would be needed on the dash to remind a driver to remove it after long periods of storage.

As mentioned, the method I described is stressful to the drivetrain. It's also stressful for the driver. It does give results... at least on my VW.

 

[LLAngus]

If you do that then there will be pressure on the clutch prssure plate with a potential of weaking them. I would not use that method. I have made stuck clutches release using the above methods that dklawson outlined. good luck.