T-Series MGB clutch hose removal

[wkilleffer]

Hey everyone,

I'm having a little trouble with the clutch on my 1974 MGB. I tried to drive it the other day, and there was no pressure in the clutch pedal. I'd changed out the slave cylinder about a year ago, but didn't change the hose at that time. The hose is old, and it appears to have perished. The slave appears to be in fine fettle and only slightly dirtier than it was when fitted.

The trouble is that I can't get the old hose out of the car. It was a simple job to unfasten the slave cylinder and unscrew it from its respective end of the slave hose. But getting the hose off the end of the metal piping from the master cylinder is proving to be more of a challenge.

Based on the new hose, that end of the old one requires an 18mm wrench, which I have in combination form. I know which direction the thing's threaded, so I know how to pull. Is this just a matter of pulling like h-e-&-# and hoping for the best? I'd like to get the car back on the road this afternoon if possible.

Thank you,
-Bill

 

[DrEntropy]

Best to use a line wrench on it to keep from rounding it off. Use a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone as a penetrating oil to soak the fitting ahead of the removal.

 

[Scott_Hower]

As I recall, the MGB clutch hose has a large nut swaged onto the MC end and a threaded nipple that sticks through a mount on the frame rail.

Can you cut the hose as close to the hex as possible and use a deep socket on it whilst holding the flarenut above it with a wrench?

Been a while since I wrenched on a clutch slave hose, so I may be off base here.

 

[DrEntropy]

That's what it is, Scott. A steel hard line to a flare fitting (hence the line wrench suggestion) fastened to the nipple end of the hose, attached to a bracket on the frame with a nut/washer over the O.D. Cutting the hose as near to the metal as possible and a deep socket <span style="font-style: italic">may</span> work but line wrenches will for certain. And usually the fitting is so well crudded up from rust/mud/undercoating it becomes a battle royal to keep from boogering up the fittings or bracket, without liberal soaking in loose-juice for a day.

...and besides, it's a good excuse for more TOOLS. :wink:

 

[Scott_Hower]

...and besides, it's a good excuse for more TOOLS. :wink:

Like we need an excuse.

 

[vping]

My slave has been leaking since I got the '74. Last year I tried soaking it in PB and then tried the line wrench. The pipe started to turn with the flare fitting. Drats. I heated this sucker up with a torch and it still did not budge. I have a rebuilt slave and hose ready to go but I think I have to get a hard line and re-bend it. I did it in the GT so It'd no big deal, just another thing to do.
My slave is leaking so much (even thought I drive it) that letting it sit for a few months over the 2nd coming of the ice age this winter it drained out. I filled it back up, let it sit a few days and it bled itself. I can only keep this up till I get yelled at for leaving LMA stains all over the place.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

If you can unbolt the slave and remove the clip holding the end of the hose, spin the hose off the nut seized to the line. Then remove the steel line to the master.
Then, heat JUST the nut, while hot use a flare nut wrench and work the nut carefully back and forth until it's free.
When cool, slide the nut back, use a wire wheel to clean the corrosion off the steel line under the nut, put a little anti-seize on the line (outside ONLY), re-install with a little more anti-seize on the threads.
Won't affect the fluid, as that's internal, but it won't seize anymore.
I can't tell you how many lines I've done like that over the decades, never an issue, if you don't try to twist off the line with the seized nut.