MG metro 1275 turbo

[saabmp3]

So from some great advice I picked up David Vizzard's book on the 'A' series engine and have started reading it from cover to cover (although I'm only 10% of the way through so far). Right now I fall into the category of having enough information to be dangerous, but no where near competent.

Going through the history section, which is a very good read, he talks about the various incarnations of the 1275 (well, the 948, 998, 997, etc etc). The last one produced according to the book was used in the MG metro which had a transverse mounted 1275 with a turbo. Everybody should know where I'm going with this one.

I know the transverse mounted block won't work inline, but what about transporting the turbo gear from one of these bad boys onto my 1275?

Has this been done? (I'm assuming yes)
Where can you even find MG metro's? Ebay is devoid of them, as well as some quick craiglist searches. Given how ugly the car is, I can assume the right junk yard would have them around cheap.

-Ben

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Only in the UK, and the turbo bits are expensive there. Plenty of folks over there have done the conversion.

 

[Baz]

Yeah, it's possible......lots of $$$ as Trevor said.
https://turbocharged-midget.tripod.com/index.html
https://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&p=emg/turbomi.htm

 

[Morris]

It would probably be cheaper and easier to make your own turbo set up using a doaner turbo from a car more readliy available on this side of the pond.

Here's a recent discussion we had on this very topic:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/269375/page/4#Post269375

New ideas and discoveries I have had since this topic first came up:

1) One step neccessary to getting the most out of a turbo conversion is lowering engine compression to the 7.5:1-8:1 range. As most of us have recently re-built or nice running engines in the 9:1 to 10:1 range, the idea of pulling apart the engine to install new pistons is less than appealing. Well, I was looking at a turbo kit for a Hyundai, and it came with a thin plate that could be sandwiched betweent two head gaskets. In this way you can drop your compression without even removing the engine. It seems that for the A-series, you could just stack a few copper gaskets and get the same effect.

2) Late 90's turbo'ed VWs use the Garrett GT15. According to Garrett's web site, this turbo is ideally sized for both the A-series and 1500 engines.

 

[Atrus]

Just to add, you're probably aware of this, but you're going to need to do a custom intake/exhauat manifold. You'll have to run oil lines to the turbo. I'd think an intercooler is good practice, if not essential. You're also going to be generating more heat in the engine bay. That being said, forced induction is a great cost-effective way to add power.

Additionally, depending on how nuts you'd get on a custom setup, you'll need to take your point of failure down the drivetrain. From what I have read, axle shafts are #1. So, if you're pumping out enough power, consider that it'd probably be a good idea to upgrade these.

 

[saabmp3]

I guess I'm sorta surprised that this is an expensive way to do this (atleast in the UK, I can understand how this is expensive in my part of the world considering that the metro never made it over here?). I read on wikipedia that the MG metro is something like the 7th most salvaged car in the UK. Basically, there should be quite a few of them sitting around rusting to bits.

Oh well, back to reading.

Ben

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Plenty of Metros, not too many Turbo Metros.

 

[racingenglishcars]

Pleanty of A+ blocks, which btw work fine in spridgets. Just the crank that doesn't fit.

 

[Morris]

What is the difference in the A and A+ block?

 

[Hap Waldrop]

The A+ blocks can be made to work in the inline Spridgets, you have to make a few drilling on the fronts and rear of the block for the Midget covers to work, use the main caps form a inline motor, plus the rear oil scroll piece, here's the big catch, they have bigger main journals than the normal Spridget's 2' main journal, so you're screwed when it comes to a crank. I know of atleast one US SCCA MG Midget racer who is using A+ block in a inline application and has custom built billet cranks with the larger journals, he does so because he feels the blocks are stronger for racing, but I never seen a problem with the normal 1275 blocks for racing.

I also did some engine component work for a guy who has built atleast two turbo 1275 for Midgets.