Lead Head Knock-off Hammer

[gonzo]

Lead-head knock-off hammers have a tendency to mushroom after repeated use - it's just a fact.

I have two hammers in this condition, one is now used to gently "pursuade" parts, the other is still use to remove knock-offs. I plan to replace both.

Questions:

What's the best hammer for knock-offs? Tried the "wrench" which creased an otherwise perfect, unamarred knock-off. Oh, and be careful around the panel work.

The wooden form that fits over and protects the knock-off so that any hammer could be used appears to be a good option. How do these work?

My best experience is with the lead-head hammer - perhaps I should consider a heavier replacement. 5LBS, 7LBS.?

And the pressing environmental question: what to do with our old mis-shapened lead hammers? Are these to be forever bannished into the dark recesses of our garages as evil hazards? Or could they be recycled, re-casted and given new life and purpose?

I'm thinking recasting...any suggestions? GONZO. If I had a /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[tahoe healey]

I have a copper hammer form my old Jag, lead from my old MG, and what ever it is that came with my Healey. I have the wood thing from British Victoria and a big rubber hammer. That is what I use. The wood thing is okay but it is hard to keep lined up and can splinter but works without adding any dings to the knock-off.
The mushrooming just adds character. But if you are into looks you could probably shave or grind off the lip. (Taking precautions for lead poisening)

 

[Bugeye58]

Lead hammer molds are available from a variety of places, such as McMaster-Carr, should you want to recycle the one you have.
I've got the old standby, "Thor", which is copper on one side and rawhide on the other. Works pretty well.
Jeff

 

[John Loftus]

I have a few lead hammers but don't use them anymore after buying a 3# dead blow type hammer. The plastic cover protects the knockoff and you shouldn't need more than 3 pounds to seat the knockoff if your hubs are in good shape. Harbor Freight has them ..
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41799

Cheers,
John

 

[Dave Russell]

I have used a rather battered looking two pound lead hammer for years. I decided to try a three pound dead blow hammer. It seemed great until I tried to remove a knock off which had self tightened on the car for a couple of months. All of the threads are in good shape, cleaned, & greased. The dead blow hammer wouldn't do the job. The lighter lead hammer loosened it as usual. The dead blow hammer is now used for tightening sometimes but I'm glad that I kept the lead one in the car for roadside emergencies. Maybe a four or five pound dead blow would be equivalent to the two pound lead job but a three doesn't seem to be. If you get a new style dead blow try it on a self tightened knock off before abandoning the lead hammer.
D

 

[ThomP]

I didn't know that McMaster sold molds, so I made my own for lead hammers. I use the hammers for general machine work in addition to removing wire wheels. I also use a piece of 2x4 between the knock off and the lead hammer so I don't damage the chrome as my knock offs are brand new. The 2x4 lasts about 2 removals and replacements. 2x4 scraps are cheap and with a few minutes at the band saw they can have a nice handle.

 

[Editor_Reid]

Guess I'm just old fashioned, but I use a soft lead hammer. Sure it mushrooms and eventually needs replacement, but it doesn't hurt my wheel nuts ("knock-offs").

 

[Geo Hahn]

I like the 3# dead-blow striking a piece of oak about 9" long and 1x1. Have also used 2x2 (nominal) pine but that eventually splits. If using the wood I find it is best to tap-tap-tap, not try to loosen it in a couple of mighty whangs. Never had one resist this even after many miles of 'self-tightening'.

 

[gonzo]

The benefit to using a lead-head hammer is that most of strike energy is transmitted to the knock-off or whatever. Some of this energy bounces back as recoil which is absorbed into the hammer itself causing the lovely mushroom effect.

The dead-blow hammer is and interesting option - I have a #1 in the tool box but it's not heavy enough to do the job. Trying a #3 might an expensive experiment. I prefer the old lead headed hammers for their minimum recoil, the solid thud they make and no slippage.

I purchased this Healey when I was 17 - it was either this or a Honda 600 down the street. The Honda ran, the Healey did not; so I bought the Healey thinking I could repair, or cobble it together to get it on the road. I knew nothing about cars nor did I come from a family that knew anything about cars. The first tool I acquired, or rather inherited from my dad, was an ancient copper hammer. The handle was worn and the head so loose that after about two blows it would fly off! I used this dangerous (and entertaining) thing to remove the Healey's knock-offs. Needless to say, one of the first tools I actually bought was a proper lead head hammer from a place called MOSS MOTORS. Located just a stone's throw, or rather a hammer's toss, away from where I lived. Just some thoughts to share before signing off. GONZO

 

[fordhealey]

this won't work for purists but i use a NUPLAFLEX lead shot dead
blow hammer. it has a soft head on one end and steel on the
other(in case you REALLY want to break something).the soft end works fine on knockoffs, an the hammer is just generally
handy.several other manufacturers make them.
gregg

 

[Mac]

I used a "Thor" hammer with lead on one side and a plastic type material on the other side. I rarely used the lead side. The plastic side worked great and never marred the knock off's. mac