TR4/4A Hylomar substitute

[bammons]

Not too long ago I had a post about problems I was having with some gaskets. Among the many answers a number of various gasket dressing/sealers were mentioned. I also read many of the posts. I have never seen this product mentioned. So if this is something everybody knows - my apology. By chance I found at O'Reillys online site a Permatex dressing that says it is "Compare to Hylomar Universal Blue". Autozone and Advance do not carry this in their stores either. This is not on the shelves in the Chattanooga area but I ordered two and had them in a day or two. I have used it now and like it. If interested it is Permatex Permashield Gasket Dressing and Sealant #85420 about $8. Much cheaper than Hylomar and easier to get. Bruce

 

[steveg]

Probably just as good. IIRC Permatex made Hylomar under license for a while. I seem to remember buying some 10 years ago.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Hylomar offers more than one formulation -- I prefer the one without a solvent in it. Hopefully that is the formula that the Permatex product resembles.

 

[bammons]

It is a solvent type I believe. You have to let the solvent evaporate some before joining. I did as CJD (John) told me and let the two sides remain separate for a day before joining and that cured the problem I was having with gasket squish. It seemed identical to the Hylomar I had used but at a much lower price. Bruce

 

[HAWAIICJ]

I have been using Permatex anerobic sealer #51813 in place of Hylomar for a while with very good results.

David

Edit: I just had the pleasure of removing the a-type from the trans and although using the anerobic sealer will make the trans leak free you will also have a tough time splitting the two. the sealer will do a very good job of sticking the a-type adapter with the counter bore in the valve body casting. I had loosened all the nuts and left the two long studs with the nuts loosened several turns and the spring pressure could not spring the two apart. Even using the 4lb rubber hammer the two would not separate easily but eventually I was able to split them. I am now going to reassemble the OD with the sealer 85420 listed above!

After having read the technical data sheets for both:

The 85420 sealer is indeed acetone based and does indicate to apply the sealer and then join the parts after the acetone smell has gone. It can be assembled, removed, re-positioned and reassembled easily and still seal. It remains permanently flexible.

The 51813 sealer is anaerobic and cures into a binding sealer that requires 400 deg f to break the bond on tight fitting fit together components. On face flange sealing it can be removed relatively easy and can fill a gap of 0.010".