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Help! Fender hardware frustration and...

Newkie

Jedi Trainee
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I am trying to put my fenders on with new hardware from VB.
There are 3 different length bolts for the top of the fenders. Along with two plate fender washers?
So let me recap. 3 longer bolts, 11 medium length bolts, and 9 shorter bolts. Does anyone know where each bolt of appropriate length goes, and where does the plate fender washers go. I believe from memory and pictures that the top bolt nearest the cowl gets the plate. Where does the 2nd one go, along with the different length bolts?

Also, how do I adjust the door nearest the hinges to come out a tad? I replaced my sills this yr, so they dont fit the fenders like they used to. The door needs to come out a little to accomodate the new position of the fenders.

Thanks, I had to walk away from the car before my frustration leads to a disaster. Not easy doing this with a new paint job.

Newkie
 
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Newkie

Newkie

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Okay, maybe I will make the question just a one part question. How do you adjust the doors? I need to bring the hinge end of the door out a little. Is it as simple as losening the hinge screws, which are frozen on my car and moving the door, or is it more than that?

Thanks

Newkie
 

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Wish I could help, could on a Spridget but just don't know about the B's.
 

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Let's take it a bite at a time....by "plate fender washers" do you mean the square washers? If so, yep, top bolt up by the cowl.....the bolts along the fender & the hood opening should barely go through the captured nuts in the body (1 or 2 take a little longer bolt because of the extra nuts required under them to hold cables....longer ones, I think, go inside the car along the kick panels.
 
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Newkie

Newkie

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Thanks Tony, can you or someone go out and check where the 2nd square washer goes. Actually the ones that come in the VB kit are elongated fender washers. Anyways, I cant find a clear picture of the correct placement of the 2nd washer. I thought it went next to the top washer or down where the radiator braces attach? Anyways, any help is greatly appreciated.
Also, back to the door issue. Can someone tell me if the door can adjust out by loosening the screws on the hinges that attach to the car.
Thanks

Art
 

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I can next week when I'm home near my cars.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Can someone tell me if the door can adjust out by loosening the screws on the hinges that attach to the car.[/QUOTE]
Yes, loosening the 3 posi's that hold the door to the hinge is one way of adjusting the door....the other is adjusting the plates that hold the latch mechanism to the 'B' post.
 

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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How bout the ends of the hinges that attach to the door? Or is that not an option on a B??
 

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]How bout the ends of the hinges that attach to the door?[/QUOTE]
That's what we're talking about, Jack...the places where the hinges on a B attach to the "A" post are not adjustable - only the 3 posi's that hold the hinge to the door are adjustable.
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
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And there's plenty of adjustment there, too.

As another "Quick-n-Dirty" trick/tip/hint: an old deck of playing cards makes a great "Adjustable Shim Set" for keeping the door(s) at a particular height while tightening the screws.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 

jlaird

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I have a bundle of shims from the Home Depot place, wooden.

I find lots of uses for them, in fact need another bundle.
 
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Newkie

Newkie

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Yes, but does it move the door out by loosening the screws?
I get the impression this only works when trying to move the door around?

Newkie
 

tony barnhill

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I don't understand what you mean by "out"...it moves the door forwards & backwards & will tilt the door upwards & down...to move the rear of a door so that it is flush with the rear quarter, you adjust the latch mechanism.
 
OP
Newkie

Newkie

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What I mean is the front of the door needs to come out a tad because of a non professional sill installation.(me) So I am trying to get the forward part of the door to lineup with the top of the sill and fender that now sticks out a little farther.
Hope that clears it up a bit more.

Newkie
 

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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If the "A" post is correct, & the door is correct, the only way to correct that is to redo the bad rocker installation.
 

rulle7

Jedi Knight
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I had the same problem on my Midget.
I resorted to something akin to a breaker bar and physically bent the hinges to move the front of the door out.
It took a bit of time and effort but no damage was done and the door now lines up as it should.
 

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I resorted to something akin to a breaker bar and physically bent the hinges to move the front of the door out.
It took a bit of time and effort but no damage was done [/QUOTE]
I would think there's a potential for wearing out the center pin if the hinge isn't swinging straight.
 

rulle7

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Hinge is still swinging as straight as before, only difference is that the door now lines up as seen from above the car as well as from the side.
I only slightly bent ( /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif ) the the part that connects the hinge to the door, not the actual hinge mechanism, thus moving the door outwards to line up with the panel in front of the door.
Hope that makes some sense. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazyeyes.gif
 

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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an you post photos
 
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