Help! Antifreeze coming between head and block

[ichthos]

After many years, I thought I was ready to start up my Bugeye. My last step was to pour the antifreeze in. I poured it in, stepped back to admire my work, and went inside to have a glass of wine. When I came out back to the garage I noticed a small puddle below the carbs on the floor. Oh, feces. I am not sure what I did wrong. I can't remember what I did to the head because it has been a while. Any ideas on what the problem may be? What do I need to do and check? Please help me get of Bugeye restoration pergatory.
Kevin

 

[bgbassplyr]

Are you sure AF is coming from between the block and head?
Did you tighten and torque head when you installed it?
Correct head gasket?
Water pump tight? Gasket ok?
Thermostat housing tight/cracked?
Top hose fit well and tight on the thermostat housing? Clamp tight?
Antifreeze is slicker than water and will find a way out when water won't. Check the above and get back with answers.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Heater hose at back?
Got a shutoff valve?
Is it leaking out the stem?

 

[Guest]

yeah, what they said.

 

[ichthos]

I will check out what you suggested tomorrow and get back. Thanks
Kevin

 

[Hap Waldrop]

Kevin, how about a little more to work with.

948, 1098 or 948 engine?

Copper or composite black head gasket, if copper head gasket, what did you dress it with?

By pass hose on the water pump, heater valve sealed as earlier mentioned?

What torque on the head?

Were the block and head surfaces cehked for straightness, and were either resurfaced?

 

[64rocksprite]

Uh oh..Hap - what dressing is required for a copper head gasket? I bought a Payen copper gasket. I haven't torqued it down yet, heads just sitting on there.

I thought 'goop' on the head gasket was a no-no??!

 

[ichthos]

I have a 948 engine. I know I haven't given a lot of information to work with, but that is because I rebuilt it ten years ago and can't remember a lot. It has sat in my study until I installed it last week. I did retorque the head to specs. I will check every thing listed, and if I can't locate the leak, I will pull the head to give more feedback. I guess compared to all I have gone through with this car, pulling the head will be minor.
Kevin

 

[jlaird]

Seems to me that goop on head gaskets is a no no, however that said Copper gaskets do require a bit as I remember.

 

[bigjones]

Well, the Moss Motors Technical guru recommended 2 to 3 light coats of Copper Kote on their gasket (both sides) (for the 1500cc engine). Their gasket is a Payen (made in South Africa, no less) - a black material with a steel core.

Cheers!

 

[JPSmit]

I have been stewing about this one - I seriously doubt it is coming from the head gasket unless something is really wrong. I'd be much more inclined to be inspecting the frost plugs or the hose connections. Assuming the engine is in the car it is amazing how far this stuff can migrate before it hits the ground. (On purpose I think)

It may even be a bit of overflow. All I'm really saying is look for the easy stuff first - twice.

 

[Guest]

Well, the Moss Motors Technical guru recommended 2 to 3 light coats of Copper Kote on their gasket (both sides) (for the 1500cc engine). Their gasket is a Payen (made in South Africa, no less) - a black material with a steel core.

Cheers!

Check the Moss catalog, they list the spray sealer along w/ the gasket. Two schools of thought on HG sealer use.

A. on non print-o-seal gaskets no, but o.k on older non sealer type.

B. use no sealer at any time as the head needs to expand and contract freely when it is heated and cooled.

Both thoughts apply to exhast gaskets too.

I've done it both ways and I'm still alive. Supposedly if it's pure dead soft copper, none is needed but the stuff is really hard to find. I think it's called 060. I have no presonal experience in the area.

I've been looking for some to do metal sculpting and can't find any; only harder alloyed stuff. Same goes for pure aluminum. ( avalibility)

 

[DrEntropy]

Permatex High Tack. Or in a pinch (here we go again :wink: ) a thin film of motor oil.

This with Payen copper composite gaskets.

 

[Guest]

I think I did motor oil on mine.

 

[The_architect]

I just got my bugeye back on the road for the first time since I bought it nearly a year, after completely rewiring it. Coming home from DMV, and about six miles from home antifreeze starts coating the windshield! I watched my temperature gauge, got home safely, and judging on where it was squirting out, I thought for sure it was a head gasket.

Turned out to be a split in the seam on the side of the bypass hose on the water pump. Don't panic yet, Kevin. Look very carefully at all your hoses.
Charlie

 

[Guest]

Don't panic yet, Kevin. Look very carefully at all your hoses.
Charlie

Especially at the clamp as they tend to cut the hose over time.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Turned out to be a split in the seam on the side of the bypass hose on the water pump[/QUOTE]

I keep one of those accordion style hoses as an emergency spare, but I use regular heater hose for the bypass.

 

[The_architect]

Trevor, I agree the accordion style hose looks like trouble in the making. I didn't get a chance to replace it yet, but I must say getting my fat hands into that little space to put real heater hose on there does not look like it is going to be fun. Looks like hours of frustration in the making. Any tips for me? Charlie

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I usually do it when the head or water pump is off, but I've read that it can be done using a pair of vise grips to fold and hold the hose then start each end release the grips.

 

[The_architect]

Ah, yes. These things are always easier said than done. Thanks for your advice! Charlie