rjfoster03 said:
Thanks for the information. I will try and locate Regularman on the forum.
I am in the Greensboro area.
Hey, you any good with a soldering Iron and working with things that you hope you don't break? You could take apart the sender and inside there is a slider that goes up and down a wire wound resistor(WWR). One end of the WWR is gounded and the other end is open. As the slider moves up and down the WWR the resistance (to ground) changes.
What you need to do is ground the other end of the resistor and open up the grounded end. Some of the senders just have the end of the WWR that is grounded just pinched in the cover on that end and you could just pull out the WWR spool and spin it around and you would have it.
They swapped these things in the way that they work at some point due to the fact that on the old style if the wire from the tank to the gauge opened up, it would read full all the time and its better for it to read empty with a broken wire instead.
Also you need to see what kind of gauge you have. The older kind worked on 12vdc, the later kind had the voltage stabilizer that worked on 10vdc. The stabilizer was to keep the voltage to the gauge constant, with the 12v earlier types, the gauge might read differently when stopped at a light with the heater fan, headlights, etc on and the old Gen not putting out enough to keep the system at 12v.
Let me know if I can help.