front pieces for bj7 hubs with bolt on wheels

[maxwedge5281]

i got my minilites today from minilite-uk. they are 5.5/6.0 bolt on wheels for my 63 bj7. i think that i have all the necerssary hubs and bearings as well as the rear drums for bolt on wheels. could someone direct me to a parts diagram for this particular setup. and, are there any hidden things to the changeover that i should be aware of when i make the transition from spline drive wheels? any help is appreciated..

 

[AH100M]

The illustrations in the latest Moss catalogue (AYH-118) look pretty comprehensive. Page 64 for the front, page 72 for the rear.

 

[maxwedge5281]

thank you bill for the tip. however after reviewing the drawing i still am a bit in the dark. it appears that the bj7 parts for road wheels...boltons...are the same as the parts for wire wheels....the exception being the bolton hub is different from the splined wheel hubs. can anyone clarify that the bearings, distance piece,shims etc are the same as on the bt7,bn7 and bj7?

 

[vette]

I have bolt-on wheels on my BJ7. But it has been a few years since I have repacked the bearings so my memory might be alittle vague. And I can't compare it to wire wheel hubs because the last wire wheels hubs i worked on was an MGA about 30 years ago. But having said that, the front hubs on my Healey seem pretty straight forward to me. You have the bearings, the races, distance pieces and some shims. they all go over a pretty standard looking spindle. Hope that helps some. Dave.

 

[AH100M]

I have a 100 (well, I will until it gets picked up tomorrow AM for transport to the auction in Ft Lauderdale) so it's not identical to your car of course, but the splined adapters bolt on to the hubs just like a disc wheel would so there's not much difference between the two.

 

[maxwedge5281]

i got the front hubs changed out yesterday. first hub took about three hours...never had changed a hub over. the second one took about an 90 minutes. of course it was not a race against time. i have not driven the car at speed to see if the front end feels proper. waiting on a kit from steve byers to change out the rear drums. i will replace seals and check bearing at that time. the minilites, chrome nuts. and center grease cap covers cost 1040 us dollars delivered to me in south carolina from england. the wheels are 5.5/6.0 by 15 with the bright finish.

 

[Randy Forbes]

As you discovered, the front hubs are a direct swap__everything is the same, save for the difference between the splines and lug-studs.

At the rear, you will need to press out the existing (short) lug-studs and replace them with longer ones. In the case of my own car, when I was running bolt-on wheels for it, I always sourced the studs from the hot-rod mail-order places (usually Moroso brand, but ARP now markets them too). The 7/16" studs for the "small" GM front disc brake cars are very close, requiring only a slight enlargement of the (rear) hub's holes allowing them to be pressed in.

Looking for pictures...

 

[Randy Forbes]

I thought I might/ve had a picture of the Moroso pkg, showing the part no., but no dice...

Here's the fancy bull-nosed studs, as fitted to the front hubs:

Moroso # 46130, with .480" knurl: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-46150/overview/

 

[maxwedge5281]

thanks randy for the pic and info. the studs that i bought are milodon 86050 and show listed for chevy 1963-86. the knurl is .475. and the stud is overall 3 inches. i hope to receive the kit from steve byers today and to remove the rear hubs tomorrow. thanks for the bolt on rear drums and for all your input.