"57 100E Front Hubs on E494A Spindles ?

[FrogPond]

Greetings first post and I have a question, I'm building a sidevalve special with a 100E engine, rear axle with brakes, radiator and front brakes (hopefully) on a dropped upright front axle & spindles. I would like to use the 100E's braking system pretty much intact.
I have some upright spindles. Probably E494A from looking at pictures. I have a '57 100E donor car. I have taken the 100E front brakes apart and the spindles have all of the same diameters. I guess I have the earlier 100E spindle, a good thing. The hub goes right on. If you tighten the castle nut, the hub bottoms on the spindle before the nut gets tight. If I put a spacer between the spindle and inner bearing, the seal will be off of the upright's narrow seal boss (probably). I added a picture [Measured (some by eye) with a digital caliper. Don't build a spindle from these] I'm going to clean up a 100E hub and measure it soon.

I'm pretty sure I'm covering well trodden ground. Is there a write-up somewhere ? Once I get the hub/drum on, I can figure out where the backing plate needs to be. I can probably make the big hole and re-drill the backing plates to fit the upright spindles. I'm wondering what the spacing should look like. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike

 

[Bayless]

I put '57 complete brakes on my E93A around 1965. I had to add spacers behind the backing plates on the back but not the front. I redrilled the front drums to fit TR3 wheels but added an adapter on the rear for the tires to fit the fenders better. It all worked fine for a "casual" driver, including maybe 30K miles over several years as a regular second car. For a racer or such, YMMV.

 

[FrogPond]

That's interesting. My hubs bind up against the spindle before the bearings snug up. I did see this

Same inner and outer bearing, same seal. I don't have 1202 (spacer) on my 100E. My "seal boss" is ~2x what the E493 spindle is. That spacer may be incorporated in my 100E spindles. They worked fine without it. (I did check to see that they weren't stuck to the spindles). Maybe I need them with the 493's. I haven't had a chance to clean out the 100E hubs and get a measurement between the bearings. Thanks, Mike

 

[Bayless]

I believe the 1202 is the bearing inner race rather than a spacer. It is pressed in the back of the drum and has to be there. It has been a long time since I had mine apart so I can't really say much with certainty but I just don't recall having any issues on the front. I should repack the bearings some time before returning it to use anyway. I will pull one and do so soon as I have a chance and report what I find. I did take a couple of photos from under the car but the only thing really shown is no spacers between the hub and backing plate. I didn't think to look at the threaded end for an extra spacer there but will do that too.

 

[FrogPond]

Sorry, it's E1 DC1/E2 DC2. It is a spacer that goes between the inner bearing and spindle.

I can't figure out how to edit my post above to have the right number.
My 100E had none, and was working. I may need one with the E493 spindles. Thanks, Mike

 

[Bayless]

Oh yes. Now I am curious. I don't think mine has that spacer either. Now I'll have to open it up and see.

 

[FrogPond]

An update:

When I cleaned the hubs I pulled the seals. It wasn't the hub fouling the spindle, it was the seal. It looks like if I install the lip seal lip out, It will clear. The original looked like felt and was metal side out. No seal and it spins free.

I measured the 100E spindle wrong. It has the 1" ID inner bearing. The upright is 25mm. Use the upright inner bearing. They use the same race.

The register hole in a 100E backing plate is 1 1/4". The register on the upright's spindle is 2 3/4". I got one of these

carbide tipped hole saws. I turned a plug and center-drilled it for the pilot. The $15 Amazon hole saw worked great. The backing plate now fits over the spindle. The clearance to the drum is good with no spacers.

The 100E hub is closer between the bearings than the upright. The result is the cotter hole being at the end of the castle nut. I can put a washer behind the nut, find a taller castle nut or re-drill and trim the spindle. I thought about shimming behind the outer race. You can only get about .060" before you run out of space for the grease cap to pound into. Goes in the same bore as the race.

I have to drill the backing plate for the upright's pattern. I guess it just goes bleeder-up.

It looks like it is going to work, Mike