Front Dust Caps Problem & Seized fuel Sending Unit

[kindofblue]

Today is my 31st birthday. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
My wife asked me what I wanted, and I said I want to spend the day working on the Triumph. I was out there for 2 and half hours and got 2 of the three things I wanted to accomplish done. I removed the rear halfshafts for rebuilding, and removed the gas tank for flushing. I removed the sending unit. It is all corroded. The float is stuck in one position. Can these be rebuilt? Is there a supplier for them. (I only looked at the TRF catalogue and they don't have it. )

What really beat me up was getting the hub "dust" caps off the front hubs. I was ready to work after a lunch break, and they are seized in there. I was trying to get the RF out using a hammer and screwdriver, to no avail. Break, to check the manual again. I was using the Bentley shop manual. Then I looked at the Clymer manual I have, and it said to thread a screw into the little hole and it will pull the cap off. I succeeded in stripping out the right front one. The left front one isn't responding either. I am sure I damaged the RF bearing, the rotor no long spins correctly. I decided to wash up for the day. My next step is the Dremel to cut around the cap...... (there has to be a better way).

 

[Guest]

And I thought I had a bad day today! I feel better already after reading your post. Anyway, I have always used a sharp chisel and small hammer and work around it in increments. Sounds like you are in for new dust caps. Don't see how you could have done any damage to the innards.
I got my sending unit from Moss. The same manufacturer makes them all so doesn't matter who you get it from.

Bill

 

[trrdster2000]

Re: Front Dust Caps Problem & Seized fuel Sending

Kindofblue, get yourself some DeepCreep or WD40 and soak the fuel sender for a day or so and use some thin oil and a tooth brush to clean the small wires inside. If there is no break in the wires it should work. Don't apply to much pressure on the float arm to get it to move, work it a little at the time until it frees up. Wayne

 

[dklawson]

Re: Front Dust Caps Problem & Seized fuel Sending

I agree completely with Wayne. With care you should be able to get the arm free. You can also use spray contact cleaner to remove any fuel varnish on the windings in the unit... but don't scrub. Once you have the arm free to move, just spray it on and work the arm so the wipers remove the varnish where it's a problem. Carb cleaner works well for this also.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Re: Front Dust Caps Problem & Seized fuel Sending

Hopefully you can free up the sender as I doubt a rebuild would be easy... I seem to recall that the wire used for wrapping that thing is a special composition.

I was able to revive mine... prior to that I looked at one on eBay that is different from the usual available from the Big 3. I think it had a metal float similar to what woul dhave be original on a TR4. Replacements are often plastic - not sure what your original is made of.

Sometimes big channel-locks can get a grip on that cap provided you're willing to ruin it (which I'm sure you are). I replaced mine and JBWelded a nut (same thread) behind the threaded hole to let the screw get a better grip. Then I use a 2" eye-bolt of the correct thread: run it in till it contacts the hub, tighten a bit more, wiggle, tighten more, wiggle, etc. The cap works its way off. Easier if you do it once in awhile but often those covers have had a decade or 2 to seize up.

BTW - TRF seems to carry the sending unit, if they are NA then I'm sure the others do to.

https://secure.zeni.net/trf/trf_parts_results.php

 

[kindofblue]

Sending unit part #

Did you get a part # for it? The link isn't working. My TRF catalogue doesn't have it, neither does the Moss motors on line catalog. Maybe someone can supply the part # and It will come up. Depending on how much it is, I may just replace it. I don't like to chance things like this when already have the item apart for servicing....

 

[Geo Hahn]

Re: Sending unit part #

TRF p/n 214465

Moss p/n 763-020

 

[Alan_Myers]

Re: #%[$][ed dust caps!

Hi,

Those dust caps can be buggers and channel locks will likely be needed. I was able to remove both of them on my TR4 despite a couple decades of neglect, and even straighten them up, sandblasted and painted them to the point they work and look fine. A screwdriver and BFH are too destructive.

I also welded a nut inside each of the original dust caps, to create more threads and correct one that was partially stripped. I increased the size (from #6 to #8, I think) too.

Using a screw to remove them seems sort of odd, but actually works so long as they don't get rusted in place.

If rusted, soaking with penetrating oil and channel locks are the first and least destructive course of action. After that, get out the screwdriver, chisels and BFH! Your idea of using a Dremel is a good one and will work. Just be sure to clean the hub thoroughly so that no shavings and metal particles are in the grease, fouling the bearings.

I've heard that the replacements dust caps are made of lighter materials, are more likely to bend and the hole is more likely to strip. That's why I salvaged the originals. If anyone, I imagine TRF would have the best quality replacements.

Good luck!

Alan

 

[kindofblue]

Re: #%[$][ed dust caps!

I will have to soak them a bit longer. As is sometimes the case, the replacement isn't as good as the original. I will borrow some big channel locks from the guys at work. I wish I knew this before removing the calipers, now there is no friction on the hubs.

Thanks for the part #. By the way, the fuel tank smelled awful. I left it on my front porch for the night, and the smell was wafting up to the second floor of the house. I think I can still smell it now, even after dropping it off at the radiator shop for cleaning. It smelled up my car, the garage, everything. Next time I know.

 

[trrdster2000]

Re: #%[$][ed dust caps!

kindofblue, you need to get the gas out of that tank because if it smells bad it has turned to varnish and the line will need to be cleaned. Now is the time to put a sealer in the tank so you won't have a stopping problem in the middle of nowhere with rust blocking your system. Wayne