First drive - Several Questions if you don't mind.

[vping]

Well I got her all together & bled and took her for a spin.

1 - Clutch engages really close to the floor.
What can it be? Does it need more bleeding.
2 - I need to step on the Brakes quite firmly to get her to stop. No pulling left & right but I need time to stop.
Can I improve this even after I rebuilt everything.
3 - Kinda bogs down as I work my way through the gears as if I am not running right. Holds it's own ok in the higher revs. Feels like I have a loss of power & it stutters a bit.
4 - Parking brake fully adjusted but does not hold 100%.
Can I improve this?

I noticed that the inside of my tailpipe is very sooty and it was not before.

Other than that I still have work to do. Tires are done as I am all over the road. Steering feels loose but it is very responsive. When I hit a bump the steering wheel moves left to right as if the rack is loose? I did not find a grease nipple on the rack but there is a small cover plate with two bolts down by the radiator. Is that where I fill it with oil?
No vibration at speed just when I hit a bump. After I get new tires (maybe wheels) I can see what else I need.

 

[100DashSix]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

I'm interested in hearing some opinions on #2 and #4 as well; my brakes aren't as responsive as I'd like (though the cylinder and calipers have been replaced/rebuilt recently). I've just come to accept that this is the way the car is supposed to be; I do find that pumping the pedal helps quite a bit, though.

My parking break, however, isn't strong enough to keep the car in one place on any type of incline (unless I really yank on it, past where it will stay on its own). This is a nuisance! Say I forget my sunglasses inside--I now have to either turn the car off to put it in gear or do something silly, like turn it perpendicular to the slight hill of my driveway.

 

[Nunyas]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

1) Sounds like it might need more bleeding. Does the friction point change (e.g. move further away from the floor) if you pump the clutch pedal several times? If it does, does the friction point return to the floor if you let the car sit? If yes to the second question then definitely needs more bleeding. If no to the second, then maybe it just needed to take up the slack?

2)Brake booster can reduce the amount of effort it takes to stop the car. Other than that, I'm not sure on how much effort it should take to stop an early B. I recall it taking a quite a bit of effort stopping my '76 when the booster went out. I dunno if that's applicable to your car though.

3)Possibly too lean from idle? Is the timing right? How are the plugs?

4)Maybe the parking brake cable is stretched out, and needs replacing? Also, are the rear brakes adjusted properly? I've noticed that if the rar brakes are out of adjustment the hand brake won't work all the time. There's also an adjustment for the hand brake under the car. Try adjusting that with the hand brake off, but only if the rear brakes are already adjusted correctly.

 

[vping]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Pumping the pedal helps my situation too and my same thoughts that the brakes just might be that way. I did rebuild the MC so thought iT would all work out and be nice & tight.

 

[Steve_S]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

I'd bleed the brakes again and make sure the rear brakes are adjusted to the point that they are just beginning to drag. Normally I tighten the adjusting cam all the way to locked, and then back off one click. If you can't turn the brake drum by hand then loosen a second click. MGB brakes are quite good as they came from the factory and should not require a strained effort to stop the car. Of course this is assuming you aren't just used to modern brakes! MGB brakes will stop just as well as modern brakes but will certainly require more effort due to the lack of power assist. The brakes on the MGB should be stronger than your TD, especially with wider tires.

Also make sure the rear brake lines are not smashed along the axle. This is common, especially after the car has been towed on a flatbed.

 

[DrEntropy]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

If you "pump" the pedal and the brakes "build" you still have air in the system. The front-end "wander" will be due to poor damping: check/fill the front shocks for that.

 

[rick_ingram]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

There are three jerks on each spindle to lubricate the front end.

Yes, the plate you see beneath the radiator is where one would add hypoid to the rack. Be careful not to lose the shims that are beneath the plate.

 

[kennypinkerton]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

I agree with Doc... But offer a second oppinion too... Pumping the brakes and getting better response happens when: 1. There is a small amount of air in the lines...
2. you have old hoses... even the single rear hose might be expanding enough to take up the slack...

If you've replaced ALL THREE rubber hoses, then you definately have air in the lines... probably spread throughout the system by now.... Start all over on the bleeding at the far rear.... and work your way to the closest brake (closest to the MC). Get all that air out. If any fluid is black, or even if there's one black bit in there... one of the hoses is shot.

 

[vping]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Brakes;
The only thing remaining on the old brake system are the 3 metal lines coming from the 4 way. I replaced everything else.
Yes they do feel a little better after a pump, so it sounds like air. I definitely kept bleeeding untill all the funk was out of the lines. Looked like maple syrup.
I hooked the car up with the tow lines when the guy came to take the car home for me and made sure of where I puy them so I know that a pinch is not cause.
All cables for the Pbrake are new. I will readjust the shoes until just able to turn wheel by hand.

Clutch;
I bled a second time and still about the same. I can bleed agian but will need more fluid. If I am sure about the bleed, how does one take up slack?

Engine;
I have the static at 10º. The plugs are new and I re-gapped to .025" from .035" but I think that was the reason I had starting problems. Should I widen the gap? Close the gap? Change plugs? I added a fuel filter just before the rear carb. (there was not one before) Mighty yucky already. Should I eliminate the filter altogether or keep changing it? Could it be starved for fuel? I kinda feels that way, as if she wants to go but can't.

Steering;
I did grease all if the zerks. I have to check the fluid and my real guess is the dry rotted & cracking Continental tires are gonna make me feel like I am on rubber bands. How would one tell how good the wire wheels are and would they contribute to sloppy handling.

 

[kennypinkerton]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Wire wheels need checked for balance, runout, and alignment... The dry rotted tires won't help either.... I have dry rotted tires on my rostyles... and they've always been a little bouncey and wobbly on their own (2 years of driving on them afyer they sat for 6-7 years unused on the car).

 

[Dave Richards]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Clutch- I think you might also consider checking for leaks on the hydraulics, from the master to the slave, was the slave replaced, or rebuilt? You can bleed, but if fluid is leaking, air will get sucked back in.

 

[Sleipnir]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Are the clutch master and slave pushrods egged out? The clevis pins themselves also wear out. The cumulative wear of the pedal, pushrods and pins often prevent the clutch master from pumping enough fluid to move the clutch arm sufficiently. I'd try replacing the pushrods and pins if there is any wear in them and look at your clutch pedal to see if there is too much play. Don't run the car without a fuel filter! Change it and see if that helps. Your timing could be advanced a little more, 15 degrees would be better. Is the distributor the stock '67? Later ones and the new ones available from the usual suspects have way too little mechanical advance for anything but a stock smog equipped '80. Replace the tires and check the wheels for runnout before going too far with the suspension, assuming your A-arm bushings, kingpins and shocks are OK.

 

[Sleipnir]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

PS -
I'm new here but I've been earning my living and supporting my family by fixing British cars exclusively for the past 15 years.

 

[kennypinkerton]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Welcome Sleipnir! Any extra help.... and a new character is always welcome here!!!!!!

 

[jlaird]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Welcome new guy, glad to have ya.

 

[DrEntropy]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Welcome aboard, Sleipnir! One more pro wrench in th' works! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Scott_Hower]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Welcome. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

I'd try to bleed the clutch again.

I have a similar situation: the engagement point on the pedal has changed (was higher, is now lower). Clutch MC and slave are new, but the hose was routed to the bleeder drilling instead of the fluid feed (why do "they" do that)?

I changed the hose and the copper crush washers for good measure and bled with a Mityvac; still feels different than it did. I think I need to enlist SWMBO (aka the bleederwoman) for another round. She hates to pedal push for some reason, probably because I bark orders at her /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif. My 6yr old is almost there /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Hap Waldrop]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

All can add to the brake feel is if you are comparing this to your late model car's power assisted brakes, it alot cruder, no power assist on your 1967 MGB GT ( I have 67 GT as well) So in short it's all you when it comes to pushing that brake pedal. As mentioned by someone earlier in this thread, a quck re-pump of the pedal always seems to give you a harder pedal and make the car feel like it stopping better, but it will never have the feel of the late model cars. Hope this helps. When it comes to comapring our cars to late model cars, any new econobox will out accelerate, out corner and out brake our cars, but we have a better time with our cars /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Bottom line, they are old cars and just don't do as good a job as the newer stuff even if you put it back as brand new.

 

[vping]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

[ QUOTE ]
Are the clutch master and slave pushrods egged out? The clevis pins themselves also wear out. The cumulative wear of the pedal, pushrods and pins often prevent the clutch master from pumping enough fluid to move the clutch arm sufficiently. I'd try replacing the pushrods and pins if there is any wear in them and look at your clutch pedal to see if there is too much play. Don't run the car without a fuel filter! Change it and see if that helps. Your timing could be advanced a little more, 15 degrees would be better. Is the distributor the stock '67? Later ones and the new ones available from the usual suspects have way too little mechanical advance for anything but a stock smog equipped '80. Replace the tires and check the wheels for runnout before going too far with the suspension, assuming your A-arm bushings, kingpins and shocks are OK.

[/ QUOTE ]

I re-built both the clutch MC & Slave and not a drip anywhere. (who was it that bet me $5?) so I know that is not the culprit.

Busted on the pushrods. I did not do as I was told and did not order new ones yet. These are fairly egged & could be cause of the clutch problems.
Welcome to the Forum BTW.

What could be my sputterring caused by. The only thing I did not replace was the wires which are faily new & in good "looking" shape. Could I have just learned another lesson like my egged pushrods?

Steering:
Doc recommended the dampers so I'll make that another post.

 

[Sleipnir]

Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

How old is the gas in the tank? Modern gas seems to have a shelf life of about 4-6 months. It'll still burn after that but it won't burn well.
Your clutch trouble could still be an air bubble in the system. Notice how the hard line from the clutch master goes up after it comes out of the master cylinder. It's not uncommon for a small bubble to be trapped in the bend where the line turns back down. It'll let the fluid by underneath when your bleeding it but will compress when you try to move the slave (work the clutch). With the bleeder open slam the pedal down as hard and as quickly as you can, close the bleeder, let the pedal up and do it a few more times. This usally works for me. I have had to reverse bleed the clutch on a couple of B's. You need to force the fluid back up quickly into the master from the bleeder nipple. A cheap grease gun (new!)that you fill with dot 4 works for this. Thanks for the warm welcome and good luck!