MGB-GT Engine hoist/crane boom length?

[100DashSix]

I have to pull my 1974 MGB's engine and transmission, and it's the first time I'll have done that on a car. Since it won't be the last, I'm thinking about buying a rolling engine hoist instead of renting (which costs a lot).

I'm looking at a 1-ton-capacity engine hoist with a boom length of 36.25" to 50.25" (50.25 at 500 pounds). Is this long enough to grab the engine? I've read that the MGB engine and transmission dry weight is ~500 pounds, so I think I can extend it to the full 50.25".

Here's the crane in question: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html

Will this do the job, or do I need a different hoist? I can't run a chain hoist above the engine either, as my garage's ceiling won't support the weight.

 

[PAUL161]

If you pull the front bumper off, you might have enough room to get the hook centered over the engine. I had to make a 6 inch extension on mine to get back far enough to balance it as I pull engine and transmission at the same time. Most of us do it that way on an MGB. The Harbor Freight hoist is made well. Mine is rated for 2 ton. PJ

 

[rick_ingram]

Purchase an engine leveler as well....similar to this:

https://www.cvfsupply.com/shop_tools/load_leveler_engine_lifting_sling.html

Harbor Freight probably carries it as well.

 

[100DashSix]

I should note that I have the chrome bumper with the overriders, not the rubber bumper. Does the chrome bumper need to come off as well? I've also seen a video of an engine going in from the side, but it didn't have the transmission attached.

The 2-ton Harbor Freight crane extends to 79"...and if even that needs a 6" extension to reach from the front, the 1-ton definitely won't do it.

 

[rick_ingram]

You do not need to take the bumper off of either the chrome or rubber bumpered MGBs for engine removal.

In fact..the slam panel remains in the way. (I adapted the slam panel on my GT to be removable to make engine removal easier on the V8....straight through the nose)

It will help the place the rear of the car on jackstands in order to give more clearance in getting the trasnmission over the cross mounts.

The leveler makes it easy to adjust the "angle of the dangle" for the engine/transmission combo.

I'll go out to the barn and see how long my hoist's arm is. I've never had a problem with chrome or rubber bumpers with it.

BUT.....NOTE.....be sure to purchase a hoist that has an outide diameter of the stabilizing legs that will fit between the front tires of the MGB!

 

[DrEntropy]

Good point, Rick.

Ive always used a stationary point in the personal MGB engine removal exercises. Hoisted the chassis up to unhitch all the ancillary stuff then used a home-made tool on the engine (valve cover, approximating the factory tool) to yank the unit out.

 

[100DashSix]

I'll take some measurements and consider a larger hoist. If the car is jacked up, though, won't the legs be able to clear the tires no matter what?

 

[rick_ingram]

I'll take some measurements and consider a larger hoist. If the car is jacked up, though, won't the legs be able to clear the tires no matter what?

You jack the car up from the rear...not the front.

 

[Stewart]

I bought one from kragen that was about the same price and 2 ton I would not want less than that. First one I've used that fit between the wheels and did not require jacking up the car.

 

[100DashSix]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] You jack the car up from the rear...not the front. [/QUOTE]

Hah. That's good to know!

Next: how do I support the engine and transmission? Do I bolt something in, or wrap the engine in nylon straps and attach them to the hoist? I'm not sure that my Haynes manual covers this part.

 

[Stewart]

You have options.

1st you can buy a set of lift points from moss that fit onto the valve cover hold downs. This is what the factory used to install the engine. If you buy the right engine level it will have L brackets that will bolt right on to the same points. No need to suport the transmission.

I'm sure others will pipe in with different lift points.

 

[Silverghost]

Lift points......you couldn't have mentioned that BEFORE I placed my order for my clutchectomy??! LoL

 

[100DashSix]

Thanks for the tips. I'll see if my level comes with suitable brackets before I order my clutch parts.

And Silverghost, I'm doing the same thing as you: 100% clutchectomy!

 

[100DashSix]

I saw you used those valve cover lift points when you pulled the engine on your 1975 MGB, Stewart (https://www.smooth3d.com/MG/DSCF0190.JPG). I'm a big fan of that thread (and your car). It's remarkable that those two points can support ~500 pounds, though.

Another question: I've opted to unbolt the intake and exhaust manifolds from the head, instead of at the down pipes. Should I remove the exhaust system from the engine bay, or will there be enough room to pull the engine up and out with the pipes disconnected but on the side?

Here's a photo (with link to a larger version) to illustrate: <a href="https://i.imgur.com/owRE7.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">

</a>

The intake gaskets are like that because I have a Weber DGV on the car. I still need to rebush my SUs for the throttle linkage.

 

[Silverghost]

My parts came from Moss today.....and no pressure plate OR throw out bearing!!

And the clutch disk box says Automotive Products on the out side.....is it a Borg & Beck? :confuse:

 

[bgbassplyr]

Prolly not, Pete. Did you specify B & B when you ordered? If you did and they shipped something else, then I would think they got some 'splaing to do.

Were the missing parts listed as back ordered on the packing slip/invoice? You may be in the middle of a FUBAR.

You might check with NAPA.

 

[rick_ingram]

My parts came from Moss today.....and no pressure plate OR throw out bearing!!

And the clutch disk box says Automotive Products on the out side.....is it a Borg & Beck? :confuse:

What part number did you order? You can get just the clutch disc OR a clutch kit.

1 190-808 $149.95 CLUTCH KIT, Borg & Beck - Includes pressure plate, disc and release bearing
1
190-809 N/A CLUTCH KIT, PowerTune - Includes pressure plate, disc and release bearing
1
1a 190-080 $89.95 PRESSURE PLATE, new
Note: Included in clutch kit
1
190-810 $129.95 PRESSURE PLATE, heavy duty/competition
1
2 190-250 $64.95 CLUTCH DISC, new
Note: Included in clutch kit
1
190-820 $179.95 CLUTCH DISC, heavy duty/competition
1
3 190-300 $19.95 RELEASE BEARING, carbon faced as original
Note: Included in clutch kit

 

[Silverghost]

I ordered 190-250 $64.95 CLUTCH DISC, new - which as I read it means the B&B.
Note: Included in clutch kit (190-808 $149.95 CLUTCH KIT, Borg & Beck - Includes pressure plate, disc and release bearing)
I didn't order the kit because I opted for the better release bearing 190-301.