clear coat question on scuttle

[Hawkscoach]

guys, after a lot of repair and work, I was finally able to paint the scuttle about a month ago. I used base/clear and it came out very nice. I still have it on the rotisserie and plan to start the assembly process this weekend (yahooooo). My question is: there are a few "dry spots" that the clear just didn't cover that I would like to add some more clear. This will be much easier before I start assembly. Can I do this? I put 4 coats of clear on originally, (5 coats on the more visible areas) however, some spots were just difficult to see during the process and now they are bothering me. Again, it has been about a month. thanks for any help, Doug

 

[Bob_Spidell]

It's been my experience--I'm hardly an expert--that if you apply more paint over already cured paint without at least scuffing the cured surface the paint will peel or flake off sooner or later. Paint needs a 'tooth' to stick to. Usually, 320 grit is recommended for color coats, but clear might need finer grit. The purple scuffing pads seem to do a good job, too, though the gray ones might be better for a clear coat.

 

[Randy Forbes]

I'll second the fine Scotchbrite pads, but you know who can tell you for certain; the guy that sold you the paint and clear. Call your supplier (assuming it's a local vendor, not online) and get the scoop from them. By and large, more paint finishes are touched up/blended in than total resprays (insurance and collision repair shops) so that's day in/day out stuff for them. If the guy answering the phone doesn't know, ask to talk to one of their old timers, and you'll get a definitive answer.

At this stage in your restoration, you don't want to do anything to compromise the outcome, and the paint is the one thing that everybody notices, whether they're a car-person or not.

 

[Hawkscoach]

Thanks Bob and Randy. I will call the supplier, they are actually very good to deal with. I would only be adding some clear, however, if it is a problem with adhesion, etc., I will just let it go...........no one will probably notice or care in those areas and I will be more aware and careful next time. Doug

 

[Healey 100]

Before you respray, you might try wet sanding those dry spots with 1500 grit and buffing. Four coats of clear is quite a bit, most vendors recommend two wet coats. I suspect there is plenty of clear on those dry spots, its just the last coat got applied thin so it dulled the gloss. When I recoat clear I roughen with 400 grit wet if the finish is well cured, say 48 hours or more. This works fine as long as you don't sand through the clear down to the base coat.

 

[healeyblue]

Bill has a good point. Buffing may be your answer.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

Bill has a good point. Buffing may be your answer.[/QUOT

If the rest of the panel is glassy and smooth you probably don't have enough clear on the dry areas to buff without going into the base coat. Don't sand into the basecoat. If you do you'll have to color blend your way out of it and re clear the entire panel. You can't just spot blend clear over exposed basecoat. 600 wet will cut the clear quickly and give the top coat enough to bite into. Kevin

 

[Hawkscoach]

thanks, I will "test" an area by sanding and reshooting the clear. This is the scuttle so I can take to an edge so it is not noticeable. Lot's of tough areas to access. Not like shooting flat panels like hoods and fenders. Bonnet and wings..............Doug