General Tech Clear Coat Application

[KVH]

Guys, I'm clear-coating my TR4A white trunk lid. What is the best way to use clear-coat? I have Spray Max 2K, and I've got almost an entire can left after my initial three flash coats (7 minutes apart). Should I knock down the initial coats with 1000 wet or dry and apply another coat of clear coat later today, or just live with the initial coats (three flash coats) and go straight to 1500 and 2000 wet or dry and then buff and polish (after 48 hours have gone by since clear coat)? Mink, you out there?

Thanks.

 

[PatGalvin]

If the Spray Max 2K is an activated clear (which I think it probably is, based on the name), you could probably go straight to 1500 or 2000 and then buff. But it depends on how well the three coats flowed out and how thick your three coats are. Be gentle and don't cut too hard. Maybe start with 2000 and see if that gets you where you want to be. You could also hit it with 1000 and then flow coat it; however, you need to make sure that you put enough clear down with the flow coat that any final cut/buff works only that last clear layer and doesn't cut into the previous 3 layers. If you cut into the previous three layers, you will get ghosting - this is pretty noticeable on darker colored panels. Ask me how I know this!

Good luck.

Pat

 

[KVH]

Thanks, I'll try 2000 first. I do have some orange peel. Maybe use 1500, then 2000? Is there some test of how well I'm handling the sanding, other than seeing paint color indicating I've gone too far? Also, what is that removes orange peel--is it the sanding or the buffing with compound (not polish)?

 

[glemon]

The sanding--you can polish and buff may cut it down slightly, but buffing works the whole surface relatively evenly, whereas sanding hits the spots.

 

[KVH]

The sanding--you can polish and buff may cut it down slightly, but buffing works the whole surface relatively evenly, whereas sanding hits the spots.

I finally have a nice smooth new clear coat spray, maybe because I finally remembered to use a good tack cloth after sanding. I might have even used a tack cloth between clear coats. I can't recall. Anyway, the orange peel is now really small and the surface is very smooth to the touch. I don't want to ruin it, but it still sounds like I'm supposed to sand with very fine grit before buffing if I want any hope of a mirror finish. Right?

Otherwise I could find myself cutting the entire clear coat excessively (and evenly) with buffing compound?

Also, I should ask. Do you use a tack cloth between the two coats of clear coats?

 

[CJD]

If you have the lid flat, you can spray thick enough so the paint will flow and prevent the orange peel. That may be hard with a rattle can, though. Spray can paint does not dry as fast as 2 part urethanes, and it is difficult to get an even coat without runs and/or thin spots. Normally you want to put all your clear coats down in one sesion. Do not use a tack cloth between coats unless you have sanded. No need to sand unless you let the clear harden more than 24 hours between coats.

Read the tech sheet for buffing. Googling your paint will give you the tech sheets with most of the information you are asking, like number and thickness of coats, time between coats, time to buff, time to sand, etc. Most will tell you to allow several days to dry before attempting buffing.

 

[KVH]

I might chicken out and just stop. My orange peel isn't too bad, and I do have a shine, just nowhere like the rest of the car. It might only be noticeable within 10 feet. I might just have a paint job 3 yrs down the road. I could try more 2000 grit but I'm afraid I'll break through to the color coat. I did wait 48 hours before buffing/sanding, just like the instructions advised.