Brake Squeak

[DenverMGB]

My '79 B squeaks a lot of the time whilst driving - especially rounding gentle corners. I finally decided that it's the front barakes - a tap on the brake pedal will stop the squeaking for a second but then it comes right back.

Any ideas how I can fix this? New pads?

 

[DrEntropy]

How 'bout R&R and repacking wheel bearings. That sounds more like a bearing than pads.

 

[DenverMGB]

How 'bout R&R and repacking wheel bearings. That sounds more like a bearing than pads.

Rest & Relaxation?

I tried to add grease to the bearings but it was full - as much came out as went in.

 

[19_again]

If the bearing has a bad roller or two, you'll still see plenty of grease. Remove and Replace is my interpretation, but I much prefer yours. Good thread on bearings here on the forum about 10 days ago. I agree with Doc that bearings seem logical also.

Mike

 

[Guest]

Owning a professional auto repair shop, and performing many brake jobs on both current cars and LBC's.... I want to share some helpful advice with you. When you repair the brakes, it is likely you are going to have the rotors turned. If not, you beg for noise... squeal and grinding. The process of machining the rotors leaves fine particulate in the rotor surface. Most guys fail to remove this very fine film from the rotor surfaces. This causes the debris to impregnate the pad material resulting in squealing like you describe. The best method I've found to really get these surfaced grit free is to start by cleaning the rotors with mineral spirit and follow up with comet and warm water and a stiff bristled brush. After a thourough scrubbing, rinse with clear water and allow to air dry.DO NOT wipe with rags or paper towels, or you'll leave that debris to cause problems! Then you want to adjust the front wheel bearings with slight pre-load on them. Get out as much axial play as possible without binding them. Then there is the pads themselves. Be sure that the pads you purchase have an engineering number printed either on the steel backing plate or along the edge of the pad material. You will see a long number with 2 Alphabet chracters in the middle.... usually EE FF FH FG or such. This is the code for the friction co-efficiency of the pads... EE are the least and FH are like for racing...FF are my choice for my own and customers' cars for all around use and the occasional weekend Auto-cross....If the pads do not have a number printed.... do not use them and obtain some that do. World Parts carries good ones... I'm sure you can find them... I do!

 

[DenverMGB]

Good thread on bearings here on the forum about 10 days ago.

Thanks for the pointer. I found John Twist's YouTube video invaluable in following-along with the thread and understanding how it all goes together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJYIXZtnIiw

I also found the "Bearing Race and Seal Driver Kit" on Harbor Freight at https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95853

How did you R & R (I learned something!) the race without them?

Where did you get your bearing kit from? From what I can make out from the Moss and VB catalogs, their kits only include the bearing. I can't see the races anywhere!

 

[dsltek432]

Races are included with the bearings.

 

[19_again]

I used a punch, with vigor, to remove the old bearings. there's a channel that presents a location to position the punch and work the old race out side to side, I used the old races placed "upside down" against the new to protect the edges of the new and rapped, with vigor, until they were seated. I had my bearing go on a saturday, but got lucky when the BritBit guys had them in stock, they're about 45 minutes from home. Be sure to have all four shims on hand. Good luck.

 

[DenverMGB]

Races are included with the bearings.

Now I'm confused. Moss' bearing replacement kit includes the oil seal and the inner and outer hub bearings only. Their parts list doesn't mention the races at all and their diagram doesn't show them.

 

[Bruce74B]

I think we are having a nomenclature problem here. The bearings are in the race of bearings purchased. The race is the little rack that contains the individual bearings in the race of bearings and comes as a set. The other parts are clearly defined in the Moss catalog, including the shims, which should be used as shown to properly position the bearings in the hub to provide the correct tension and torque without wobble. The number of shims rewuired varies from car to car to meet specs.

Bruce

 

[19_again]

https://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=2018703
The above is a picture of the two races, inner and outer that go in the hub.Once these races are securely wedged into the inner diameter of the hub,the bearings rest in these races or channels.I use the term bearings to define the complete assembly of bearings and outer case, as they come out of the box from Moss. My supplier provided me with a "bearing kit", it had both inner and outer bearing assemblies as well as the separate races. I used all 4 shims on my '67, don't know about your 79. John's video shows the components pretty well.
Mike

 

[DenverMGB]

2 bearing kits arrived today from Moss. for anyone as confused as I was each kit (part 125-840) includes:-

- inner and outer complete bearings (rollers, inner and outer races or channels)
- Oil Seal
- Cotter Pin
- Sachet of grease.

I didn't know a cotter pin was included so I ordered 2 (part 325-442) which are 1/2 inch longer than those supplied in the kit! If I find out there might be a problem with the longer pins, I'll post back here.

If you already have grease - and who doesn't? - you should buy the parts separately and save $2.75!!

I really hope this cures the squeak!

 

[19_again]

The problem with the longer pins is that are a royal PITA, I cut them back to the length necessary to do the job, getting a grip on them to bend them is tough enough without them being too long in the first place. Glad o see the program moving along.

 

[DenverMGB]

Labour (sic) Day Weekend is here so I might just have some time to replace the bearings - work and home-life permitting.

I have a trolley jack and 2 axle stands. Where is the best place for the stands whilst working on the front?

 

[Bruce74B]

If you are just doing bearings, I would jack in the middle of the crissmember and put the stands under the spring pans.

 

[jlaird]

Good advice, other place is under the front "frame" extensions.