BJ8 Glove Box Lock Problem

[shorn]

My glove box lock fails to open. The key works and I can turn the lock to the two positions, but pushing on the lock fails to open the glove box door. Ideas on how to open the box without damaging the glove box door or surrounding wood dash. By the way, there is a radio attached to the underside of the glove box that would be difficult to remove without opening the glove box door.

 

[GregW]

Hey Shorn,
I've had good luck squirting PB Blaster into padlocks to free 'em up. Not had to do that to the glovebox.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Hey Shorn,
You're in quite a spot.

Have you tried Abra-Cadabra, open sesame? (sp)
I think I know your problem. There seems to be a radio attached to the glove box. Ya gotta keep your eye on those radio's. Now where is that radio.

If no one comes up with a real solution, I'll take mine apart and see if I can find what may be causing the problem.

I remember taking mine apart a while ago. There is a small spring that pushes on the pin. It may have jammed up. Of course that fix requires opening the box first. I'd try Abra-cadabra in different tones until it opens.

Roger

 

[shorn]

OK, I got the door off by driving out the pins on the hinges.
A little PB Blaster freed up the lock a bit, but it is still hard to open. I don't see how the lock comes apart or how it is removed from the door itself.

 

[RobWarren]

Shorn,

I had a problem with my lock very recently and I shall try to describe the problem and how I fixed it.

There are two main components to the lock:

1) a central unit which includes the keyhole. When in the right position, this unit can be pushed against the locking latch, moving it vertically and allowing the door to open. The locking latch has a spring which forces it and thus the central unit back when pressure is released.

2) an outer unit that is used with two fingers to lever against when pushing the central unit in. The outer unit is fixed in position.

My problem was that both the outer unit and central unit had moved around in differen directions and thus the relationship with the central unit had moved from the two locked or unlocked positions and was now anywhere. No matter whether the key position was in "locked" or "unlocked", the central unit could not be pushed in.

I basically kept the key in the keyhole and tried every combination of positions, working the outer unit round and everytime I moved the outer unit a degree or two, I'd try pushing the central unit in. Eventually it worked - I'd restored the right position. It was then that the cursing stopped.

Upon taking the lock apart I found that it was a little gummed up but the cause of the problem seemed to have stemmed from the rattling the car got on a 2 hour dirt track and a couple of screws that needed tightening.

When in unlocked mode, the pins in the lock secure the central device in place but this had failed and the central unit had found its way out of this location (so regardelss of the outer unit moving, there woudl have been a problem). When locking, the key moves these pins and allows the central unit to move to a second fixed position whereby it cannot be depressed to move the latch vertically and open the door.

Apologies for lack of clarity. If you like I'll take some pictures of the lock and how it works at the weekend but I'm not going to get to the garage before then I'm afraid.

Rob

p.s. to remove the lock from the door, remove the 4 small screws fromthe plate at the back of the lock (back of the door) and it should be very simple to take apart.

 

[John_Progess]

Shorn,
I have my lock available for pictures but I have not been able to post any pictures to this site. How can I get pictures to you?

John

 

[Jerry]

There is a little tiny phillips screw that holds the lock together. The screw is on the bottom side of the chrome part (outside door). DON"T drop the screw. I just spent 30 min looking for it two days ago. Once you take that screw out, the lock will come apart and you can lube it well. There are only 5 parts to work with so it should not be too tough to figure out why it is not opening.

Jerry
BJ8 in progress

 

[andybj8]

Shorn
As Jerry has pointed out there is a small grub screw that locks the lock barrel into the cast ally housing, mine was missing and if the two parts are not aligned correctly it doesnt work until the key moves the lock in the housing, thats why its hit and miss. Once correctly aligned and locked with the grub screw it will work.
To dismantle, First undo the grub screw on the handle, then remove the 3 chrome screws holding the cover plate on the inside, then undo the large locknut to remove the chrome part, assemble all the parts in your hand (not on the glovebox) and you will see the correct alignment.
I found a small b.a. brass screw and cut to length for the missing screw.
Andy

 

[shorn]

Thanks for the info on the tiny phillips screw on the lock. I missed it entirely. Must be my 60 year old eyes.

 

[healeynut]

Does anyone know the specification for that little bitty screw? Mine was lost when the shop I used converted my car to RHD, and I would like to replace it.

Thanks!

 

[John_Progess]

The little screw on my lock is a straight blade oval head brass screw, .141" long overall, and appears to be a no. 2 (mojor diameter .086") with 56 threads per inch. Can't tell for sure about the tpi (pitch gage doesn't go more than 40 tpi) but the threads measure .0835" diameter. Hope this helps and have a good day!

John

 

[andybj8]

As I stated above I used a brass B.A. screw, unsure what size tho, John's info will help for choosing the correct B.A size
Andy

 

[healeynut]

someone told me once that these were British Cycle threaded, but then again since it only bites a couple of threads, probably a BA screw will do.