A Good Weekend Adventure

[jhorton3]

I took Midgie up to North Carolina over the weekend. I couldn't ask for any better top down driving weather. Midgie got a lot of looks, and great comments. Even some thumbs up from guys on Harleys.

I thought the adventure was going to end about 15 miles from home when she just quit. Tach dropped to 0, all dead. Pulled over to the side of the road and let her sit for about 7-10 minutes. Fired her up, and carried on the rest of the trip without issue.

The alternator is still giving an embarrassing squeal when it wants to. It'a always around that critical 3,500RPM range. Gotta get it replaced as soon as I have the money to do so.

My speed was hampered by a vibration in the front end around 60-65. Not sure what's causing it. Plan to put the front end up in the air and snoop around. It wonders over the road. Could be tie-rod ends, could be steering rack. I've always suspected the steering rack could be a lot of the problem. It was supposed to be rebuilt, but I think they just put new gaiters on and repainted it.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Could just be a tire out of balance.

 

[Guest]

or bushings. Tire balance is most noticable ~55, out-of-round ~70

 

[Trevor Jessie]

.... or maybe the shocks need to be topped up.

 

[Guest]

Aw shucks, just do the whole front end and call us in 5 years when you've finished your complete nut and bolt restoration.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Wheels Bearings, I found a NOS Set for Bugsy I that made a world of difference but I'll bet unless you did a major suspension kit worn fulcrum pins and kingpin bushings. Wishbones on Bugsy II about to go out to Apple Hydraulics to go out to Apple Hydraulics to get new metal bushings installed, kingpins reamed by Peter C and crew, and then I'll add a major suspension kit along with new discs up front, a dual master resleeved to 3/4" by Gerard and Team and clater backplates. Oh and a set of Peter C's shocks all around plus a front swaybar. $1,000+ Bugsy II will handle properly and track properly and not wander around in Road grooves. Like Kelly said, a complete Front End rebuild is what is called for to do it right. And you will not believe the differene in handling once you get done doing all of this to your Spridget. Just takes time and money.

 

[taskadog]

"Just takes time and money"
Ain't that the truth

 

[nomad]

The 74 steering rack's will wear. I replaced one on a 72 that was giving me fits till I grabbed the right front wheel and got rough with it. I then could see the rack moving up and down.

Kurt.

 

[jhorton3]

I did a complete tear down and rebuild/replacement of the front suspension. New A arms, rebuilt fulcrums, new sway bar, the "rebuilt" steering rack, new wheel bearings, replacement shocks, new springs, rubber bushings...the works a few years ago. Here's a link from the project: https://www.jhorton3.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=57

Sometimes I wish I'd gone with neoprene bushings. I'll put her up on stands this weekend and see if I can figure out what's ailing her. I still suspect it's something with the steering rack. I've just got one of those feelings.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Put a wrench on every nut and bolt and be sure nothing has worked loose (even if it looks tight).

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Also, if you replaced bolts on the rack with new. you may not realize bolts bottom out and not be properly torqued down. Don't ask me how I learned that as rack was moving all around on me. Use a bottoming tap to clean out those holes, lots of garbage in there. Do not over torque. That is aluminum in there you are pulling against. I also lined the inside of the clamp with a piece of inner tube, a washer and inner tube stopped the rack from moving on me.

 

[jhorton3]

I reused the original bolts, and even chased the threads with a tap. However, I don't remember putting any kind of packing around the tube when I clamped it back in. That just might be the issue right there. I'll check and see. I'll definitely go over every nut & bolt on the suspension to make sure they're tight.

 

[Guest]

Sometimes I wish I'd gone with neoprene bushings..

Why, so it would clunk and rattle like it's falling apart? I've got em on one side and they sound TERRIBLE!

 

[David_Doan]

Why, so it would clunk and rattle like it's falling apart? I've got em on one side and they sound TERRIBLE!

I thought neoprene (the red ones) were better? I'm just about to order all of mine.

 

[nomad]

I think if you are after a good ride and not necessarily into performance that the original rubber is best. Get hold of Peter C at "World Wide". He has the original rubber parts needed.

Kurt.

 

[David_Doan]

So most of you guys have not upgraded to red neoprene??

 

[nomad]

I have the neoprene on my bug eye and it seemed to make the front suspension stiffer and less compliant. Might just not have enough miles on it to loosen up yet but for ride I have fitted rubber to my midget. Think I prefer that but I like to get a little crazy with the BE so am satisfied with the sharper handling. Of course comparing a BE to a midget is kinda a apple's and orange's type of thing. The BE is lighter without the weight hanging out over the rear like the later spridget's.

Kurt.

 

[jhorton3]

In typical Georgia fashion it rains on the only day I have to put the car up on jacks. Maybe later this afternoon/evening.

 

[jhorton3]

Just got the car up on a jack and started grabbing each front wheel. Grabbing the top & bottom of each wheel gives no play. Grabbing left/right side of the left wheel doesn't produce anything. Right side though and it looks like there's some significant play within the inner tie rod of the steering rack. I don't know by how much, but I can wiggle it pretty good and the steering wheel does not budge.

 

[bug_sixty]

What about the Arm braised in bush? Don't know if anyone sells them....Other than buying the compete arm.