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72 HIF Butterfly - Moss Part Number

PAUL161

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Anyone have the Moss part number for the solid butterfly's for an HIF carburettor that now has the one with the valve in it? I'm not sure if I chose the right ones, because the HIFs only came with the valves. PJ
 
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PAUL161

PAUL161

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David_DuBois said:
PJ - The same butterfly from the HS carbs work fine.
Cheers,

Thanks Dave. I've put up with the higher than normal idling and hesitant shifting long enough. She doesn't say anything, as I gave her the car after I restored it and she loves it, but it's not running like it should. Maybe I'm too fussy, but it has to be fixed! Thanks again. PJ
 

DrEntropy

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Did we not have this "conversation" about a year ago?!?

Hmmm?

:wink:
 
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PAUL161

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DrEntropy said:
Did we not have this "conversation" about a year ago?!?

Hmmm?

:wink:

<span style="font-size: 11pt">Yeah Doc, but it took me that long to convince someone to let me tear her car apart! Some people just have no sense of humor. :rolleyes: <span style="font-weight: bold">Oh, the pain!</span> </span> :jester:
 
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Call Joe Curto , he ca fix you up, warning some HIF4s will have a tube at the butterfly opening, it's an enrichment tube, some of the tubes sit up proud and the btterfly has to have a notch to clear it, some are flush with the bottom of the carb body. If you have the flush tube, the sold HS4 butterfly will go in without any mods, but if you have the tube that sticks up, then you have two choices, notch the butterfly to clear the tube or flush the tube out with the bottom of the carb body, I prefer flushing the tube out with the bottom of the carb body, this will always lend itself to a better idling carb.
 

DrEntropy

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I second! Chop that li'l sucka flush. :wink:
 
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PAUL161

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Thanks Hap and Doc! I'll order a pair for the HS4s and go from there. PJ
 

vping

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Cant you take them out and solder the holes shut?
 

DrEntropy

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No. Just whack the tube down to th' level of the throat and move on. A Dremel tool would be appropriate here.
 
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PAUL161

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Doc, have any idea why the tube was installed in the first place? Did it have something to due with the smog system? PJ
 
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vping said:
Cant you take them out and solder the holes shut? [/quote

I built a few sets of HIF4s, not that many, and I don't know that I ever study the tube closely to see exactly it's finction, my guess would be a vent for the float chamber, so no you don't want to close it up, at one point I guess the designer chose to stick them up further into the air flow to create more of a vacuum to vent, works kinda like a draft tube on the lifter cover of the MGAs and 948, same theory.
 

DrEntropy

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The ones I've done were back in the mid to late '80's and few of 'em. Never blocked the port, just cut it and filed it flush. like Hap says, it seems to be a vent/vacuum to the bowl but I didn't futz around trying to digest the engineering. Swiss files to finish the hack job work fine, BTW. With the solid plates in the things it'll drop to idle just fine, big improvement.
 
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PAUL161

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Thanks guys, just a curiosity on my part. Doc, that's what I've heard before about a smoother and lower RPM idle. Along with that, it has to shift quicker without that slight pause for the Rs to come down. PJ
 

mgbsteve137

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I've got my HIF-4's apart right now (badly leaking float chamber gaskets).

As for the original subject, the valves in the butterflys on mine were soldered shut by a PO. Looks a bit strange, but it seems to work although I would think it would disrupt the air flow somewhat.

The butterfly valves are notched but the tubes also look as though they have been (badly) trimmed.
 
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Stephen, if you can flush out those vent tubes, you can use the early solid butterflies, just make sure you just flush the tubes out, and not get into the carb body, since that is so close to the where the butterfly rest at the bottom, a dremmel tool with some sort of sand paper barrel should work fine to flush it, maybe even a small half round file, and some sandpaper if you are very careful.

Joe Curto, www.joecurto.com has the early butterflies, and the proper float lid seals, don't try to replace with a normal butyl O ring, thay will not hold up to the additives in unleaded fuels for very long. Also Joe's HIF4 rebuild kits are alot nicer than most offer. Hope this helps.
 
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