TR2/3/3A 1957 Girling adjuster on left rear drum frozen

[Daves1957TR-3]

The title says it all. Any ideas on freeing up the Girling adjuster? Right side is fine, left side totally frozen. I have tried penetrating oil but not heat (yet). Fortunately the brakes are good so this is not urgent.

Cheers, Dave

 

[sail]

Why wouldn't you just get a new one? Brakes seem to me to be the most important thing on a car. I'd call it "urgent" do not drive.

 

[CJD]

If you have already tried the penetrating oil, the next step would be to remove it to thoroughly clean and lube it. Every time I adjust these, I am amazed that they aren't locked up more often. You don't have much leverage to turn the adjuster with those small flats. It doesn't take much goop/corrosion to lock it.

 

[Andrew Mace]

I'm not as familiar with the early style Girling rear brake adjuster. On the other hand, I've freed up and saved dozens of the later style over the years. Usually, all it takes is enough heat from a propane torch to free it up, after which you can get it apart, clean and lubricate it, and reassemble as John suggests. I've long since learned to check them regularly and relubricate as needed (I've always used white lithium grease; works for me).

 

[Daves1957TR-3]

Thanks all. The brakes are actually in pretty good adjustment with plenty of lining and no fluid seepages, so the frozen adjuster is not a problem right now, although I will have to fix as the rear lining slowly wear. Can I remove and fix the adjuster without removing the shoes?

Cheers, Dave

 

[Andrew Mace]

No, I don't think so, but it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to remove shoes and then the adjuster!

 

[sp53]

I guess you could remove it, but getting it back on with the shoes will be a encounter. Those big adjusters with the square adjuster need a wrench that has good leverage and fits the square just right. They sell a special wrench for it. The adjuster might not be frozen. What can happen is with those cam adjusters and square bolt, the shoes need to lift up and fall back down, and with the drum on, the shoes cannot lift up and drop back down. Have you tried to adjust the shoes with the drum off?
Steve

 

[Daves1957TR-3]

Steve:
Yep, I was wrestling with it with the drum off. I have a wrench from Moss, but the brake end is a bit small so I will have to file to fit.

Cheers, Dave

 

[sp53]

Yeh that adjuster has an iron cam going into some kinda cast Aluminum alloy- plus they might be unavailable. The shoes and everything come off and go back on easily once you get the hang of it. Put the springs on the shoes first and then pull that assembly over the axle hub and wrestle into positon. But at that point you might as well do a proper brake job with a new wheel cylinder. The most difficult spot is getting the wheel cylinder back attaching shims off and on in the correct order. You have to hold the ears up on the one and knock the other out then slide the assembly down and pull E-brake arm out for some wiggle room.

Anyways the cam is either cross threaded or oxidizes in the housing and can be bear to get out also. I put them in a vice and juice it up with something and work it loose slow. I have been able to save them, but I would be looking for an adjuster just in case. Marv probably has some.
steve