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TR4/4A Your thoughts/value of this TR4

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Hook goes thru rectangle plate, thru body tub, then body packing (maybe 1/2" thick) then thru frame pipe, add washer and nut. Don't overtighten and bend body metal.

Marv
 
Ok, maybe you guys can help me on this one. I've turned my attention to the engine for a while and I'm getting ready to replace the oil pan gasket. I've read all the threads re: Hylomar, straightening the flange around the holes etc. One thing I didn't see: I got a Payen gasket from Moss and it has these two cork squares with the gasket. What are they for? :eek:

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I may do this a little differently than others, but I really like the Permatex Ultra Gray gasket sealer. After I clean the surfaces and get them nice and flat (I use my wife's granite kitchen counter to check) I spread a good even coat of sealer along the flange and place the gasket, turn everything over and put it on the very flat counter top with about 2-3 lbs of weight on top and let it cure. When I put the pan on the engine I use the same gray sealer and lightly tighten the oil pan bolts, let it cure and then tighten fully. This has been the only way I've had a leak free engine that stays leak free.
Rut
 
Yep, have to wait until SWMBO is out of town although she did let me run a set of lever shocks thru the dishwasher last week. I was really impressed with the dirt, grime, and paint removal using the dishwasher...almost ready to repaint!
Rut
 
What kind of sealant (if any) do you guys like to use on the cork gaskets on the sealing block?
 
Mink,
i use the same Permatex gray for all gaskets, cork, paper, rubber, etc.
Rut
 
Sorry, I have no updates for you guys. However, I did meet a guy in my local pub who let me take his TR250 for a spin today! She's a beauty.

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What a great looking TR250! I've never seen it over here in Carmichael. And, the black license plates, it started its life in California. Eat your hearts out, those of you in salt country.
 
fpstude said:
What a great looking TR250! I've never seen it over here in Carmichael. And, the black license plates, it started its life in California. Eat your hearts out, those of you in salt country.
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He lives near Fair Oaks and Sunrise (near River Rat), so probably close to you. Ran into him in the new brewpub in Fair Oaks Village.
 
I've run into a bit of a quandary, maybe you guys can help. The PO of my car had cobbled together a hot mess of pipes for the heater. I'm replacing all of that along with a new heater valve but the adaptor is a problem. It's a 3/8" 45 degree street elbow, which I think is exactly was Moss sells as part #635-260. The problem is that I can only get it in a few turns before it hits one of the head nuts. I have not tried trimming the adaptor or head nut yet. It feels like the only way to install this is with the head off or maybe with the one nut removed, which I'm wary of doing.

Is there a better adaptor?


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Ok, several options out there, but I will be using the same one I used on my MGB sans homade mounting bracket. It's 3/8" npt and should fit the head perfectly or you can go to a plumbing supply store and get a 'long' 45* elbow. There's a bit of variance between manufacturers of plumbing fittings.
Rut
 

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Firstly - is that a split washer I see under the head nut? No lock washers there but the head nuts do need a special washer. Also (OBTW) that stud would normally have the rear engine lift bracket mounted under the washer and nut.

The elbow goes on before the head is installed. If you're not planning on removing the head right now then I see no problem with undoing and re-torqueing that one nut, especially as it is in the last sequence of the tightening order.
 
The other answers are more of a solution for you now. This will show you the type of fitting that came with the car. At least on a TR4A. I have fought the same problem in the past.

 
A photo of mine - it is a no-heater car (was dispatched to the tropics). Oddly the factory chose to retain the elbow rather than put the plug in the head.

Heater%20Plug%202_zpsnmgbrjir.jpg


You can also see the top portion of the engine lift bracket (which is why that stud is a bit longer).
 
I went ahead and notched the adaptor a bit and got it to tighten up. Thanks for all the pics.

I'm really close to marrying the engine and trans again. I cleaned 53 years worth of filth off of the transmission and replaced the input seal (which was literally solidified) and the throw out bearing. Gonna swap the output seal tomorrow. The engine had been haphazardly spraybombed with red paint at some point in the past so I cleaned up the block, painted it, and replaced most of the external gaskets while I was at it. Hopefully within a week these two will be back in the car and I will be on to the next stage, probably assembling the dash and interior.

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A coupke of things you might want to know (or may choose to ignore) -

Your distributor gear may be off a tooth as the body is usually parallel to the engine block. Will work fine in the position you have it so long as it can be moved for timing w/o hitting anything but a look in the practical hints book will show a different alignment, something like this:

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To get that position I think the dog should look like this:

Driveafter.jpg


While you have the gearbox out you might want to add some back-up for that vulnerable clutch fork pin - they are prone to breaking at the most inconvenient times. Many use a grade eight 1/4" bolt through the fork at a right angle to the pin:

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Or perhaps yours has this - couldn't see in the pic.
 
Geo Hahn said:
While you have the gearbox out you might want to add some back-up for that vulnerable clutch fork pin - they are prone to breaking at the most inconvenient times. Many use a grade eight 1/4" bolt through the fork at a right angle to the pin:

Or perhaps yours has this - couldn't see in the pic.
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D##n you for making me do the right thing! :smile:

Actually, in this case you probably saved my ass. Because of my inexperience with these cars, I didn't realize the pin was broken when I removed it the first time to install the throw out bearing. So when I decided to pull the arm and add the additional bolt like you suggested, I couldn't get the arm off of the shaft. I found the Buckeye Triumphs page about this very problem and realized mine was already broken. Bummer. So I drilled the fork so I could try to drive the pin out like the page described. No luck, so I cut the shaft. Once I had it on the bench, I was able to get the broken half of the pin out. So now I need a new shaft and pin for sure.

But I'm not sure about the arm. Do you guys think it's safe to re-use with the hole?

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