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TR4/4A Your thoughts/value of this TR4

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I don't profess to be an expert, but I have done this job a few times. 1) they sell a hardened fork pin that seems to work as well as the bolt through the rod fix. 2) check to two pins on the side of the fork, that travel in the groove of the t/o bearing. They should be round not flat on one side. They are also available. I had a machine shop press mine in. My opinion is the fork would be OK with the above completed. Congrats on the progress...looking good.
 
A new clutch shaft, hardened pin, 1/4" grade 8 bolt, and I think my clutch shaft should be Geo Hahn-approved now. ;)

Hopefully this mess will be back in the car tomorrow.

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Marvin Gruber said:
Gas pedal will go in a lot easier with the engine/trans not there.

marv
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Yup, I was trying to get it done first but ended up destroying it. Thankfully I know this guy in Alabama who has a bunch of parts. I'll just have to fight it in later.
 
Something to think about -- I see the steering rack is not yet in place but at some point you might look at the clearance between the fan extension and the rack. That gap can be small -- too small to permit changing the fan belt w/o loosening the motor mounts and raising at least one side of the engine.

I'm not sure how others addressed this but I added about 3/16" in shims to each motor mount. As I recall I found some big washers at Ace that worked well. I also had to raise the radiator (more washers) a similar amount to preserve the match-up of the top hose. Of course all this was on a late TR4 which had no crank hole in the radiator. If yours has a crank hole then the option of raising everything may be impractical.
 
Marvin Gruber said:
Gas pedal will go in a lot easier with the engine/trans not there.

marv
Click to expand...
My recollection is that Marvin understated the ease of getting the accelerator shaft into the car with the engine in place!!
I will say that I recall that the accelerator shaft is NOT LIKELY TO BE ABLE TO BE INSTALLED with the engine in place. On the TR4 it is very very tight. I am guessing that you are heading for a big head ache.
Charley
 
charleyf said:
My recollection is that Marvin understated the ease of getting the accelerator shaft into the car with the engine in place!!
I will say that I recall that the accelerator shaft is NOT LIKELY TO BE ABLE TO BE INSTALLED with the engine in place. On the TR4 it is very very tight. I am guessing that you are heading for a big head ache.
Charley
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Hooray! Gonna try anyway, at this point I have no choice. You can tell me "I told you so" later.
 
Mink said:
Hooray! Gonna try anyway, at this point I have no choice. You can tell me "I told you so" later.
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I've heard that if you place a 2x4 protruding out a bit near the linkage when doing the install it will keep the motor from bending the linkage....but that might be just on the TR3?
 
Mink said:
Hooray! Gonna try anyway, at this point I have no choice. You can tell me "I told you so" later.
Click to expand...
Mink,
Most folks here understate their points. I have restored two TR4's over the last 8 years and I am convinced that you ARE NOT GOING TO BE ABLE TO PUT THE ACCELERATOR ROD ON THE BODY with the engine in place or at least the head on the engine. If you were to release the engine and tranny and move them forward 4-6 inches you could likely get the rod / linkage installed.
Good luck.
Charley
 
charleyf said:
Mink,
Most folks here understate their points. I have restored two TR4's over the last 8 years and I am convinced that you ARE NOT GOING TO BE ABLE TO PUT THE ACCELERATOR ROD ON THE BODY with the engine in place or at least the head on the engine. If you were to release the engine and tranny and move them forward 4-6 inches you could likely get the rod / linkage installed.
Good luck.
Charley
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Could somebody please explain the exact difficulty I'm facing? I have all of the roll pins out of the assembly,and the assembly broken down to its individual pieces and it seems like I can just assemble it as I go.
 
Once you undo the 4 sheet metal screws on each side that hold the plastic bushings in and the bolts that hold the support bracket, you should be able to get the right end of the long rod free. With a little contortion and maybe the benefit of a slightly larger hole in the firewall (courtesy of the PO) to allow the pedal to sneak out, mine came out fully assembled.
 
So tell me what I'm doing wrong. I just welded my broken accelerator shaft back together as well as I could and reassembled the whole thing in about 5 minutes. It's just loosely assembled at this point but still don't see what I'm going to have problems with.

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Mink,

I will apologize, it looks like by disassembling the accelerator shaft you have been able to get it all together in place. It is still going to be a real pain getting those screws in place on the firewall--but doable.
Charley
 
charleyf said:
Mink,

I will apologize, it looks like by disassembling the accelerator shaft you have been able to get it all together in place. It is still going to be a real pain getting those screws in place on the firewall--but doable.
Charley
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The four screws in each bushing go into the firewall before the shaft so access is good. I only put two in each bushing in the pics above for expediency's sake. I think when my undamaged throttle shaft arrives, I'll document the steps for assembling the shaft with the engine in place for future searches. It does require the assembly to be broken down into its component pieces but that's easy.
 
It lives! Finally got her started up again. I have a big fat leak where the heater return pipe connects at the front of the engine, but other than that it seems fine. You can see I still have a tiny bit of work to do on the interior.


 
Looks good Mink ! The first start up is always a good feeling.
 
Mink,
had the very same problem with leak on bypass pipe on startup for the 250. Right now the new overdrive unit is not kicking in. Always something.

marv
 
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