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Wheel bearing replacement question

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bthompson said:
I asked this same question in a thread about 22 pages back...GrahamP uploaded a pic that he got from someone else, so I'll reference it too and keep it circulatin'.
grin.gif


bearings.jpg


Best illustration I've seen that breaks it right on down.
Click to expand...

YUP! That's it!!

-Bear-
 
Bill and Bear,

Thanks for posting the drawing.

If you take a look at the photos of the ball bearing I just pulled from the Midget, the inner race has the same "thickness" on both sides of the bearing. The thickness of the outer race differs.

The drawing focuses on the difference in the inner race.

Though it does show the wide faces of the outer race outwards - is this correct?

Just want to make sure because once they are in, they are in for good!

Cheers,
Adrian
 
Yes, wide faces outwards - as per the "blue" pictures. those are the faces the tightening takes place against. Oh and don't forget to install the spacer - once again, don't ask me how I know
 
The spring on the seal goes on the INSIDE folks! The picture he showed of the hub before disassembly had it right. Seals are the thickness of a beer can now so you will want to back it up with an old bearing race or a large washer or something similiar when you tap it in.
KA
 
You need a MOSS catalog. It tells the right direction for the bearing that you have. I have that page stuffed in my repair manual out in the shop. If you hav'nt got it figured out by the time I get back in from chores I'll let you know.
 
Gawd! After all that - and its in the Moss catalog. Many thanks Nomad!

MossDrawing.jpg


Courtesy of Moss Motors

Will get back upon completion.

Thanks for all the posts guys!

Cheers
 
OK, now I am in really deep Sh**

The lovely, multicolored race-installer I bought specially to make this process a pleasure has turned out to be freaking useless because the stinking inner race stands proud of the outer race.

What else can I use to "tap" in the bearing. I'm not a Mac truck driver so no sockets that big.

What Ho! What is this! The old race. What better to drive in the new than the old. Poetry. Life is good. MG rules. I am King of the Road! Let's "get 'er done!"

Now I can't get the old race out of the hub.

OK, after y'all have stopped screaming with laughter, please tell me that, surely, someone has made this MAJOR BLUNDER before I woke up this morning.
 
WOW Dual Bearing Front Hubs... What a concept. Could be a money maker.

How does that go......."i dont have a solution, but i admire the problem"

seen that on someones sig line.......



mark
 
Hmmm... well I've almost made that mistake, but I realized the issue and turned the bearing down few thousandths. (At the expense of some carbide inserts).

Seems like careful dis assembly is going to be required. Sorry.
 
SilentUnicorn said:
WOW Dual Bearing Front Hubs... What a concept. Could be a money maker.

How does that go......."i dont have a solution, but i admire the problem"

seen that on someones sig line.......

mark
Click to expand...

No it isn't somebody's its nobody's.

I've got some extra front hubs if you want one, or two. Let me know. It may be easier, and quicker for you to swap them out if you don't have a press / large sockets. The alternative is to take it to a shop with a press and have them remove them.
 
A relatively inexpensive bearing installer can be made from a piece of pipe and a pipe cap. Just go down to your local hardware store and find a piece of iron pipe that is the size of the outer race and a matching cap. Grind the end as necessary to fit inside the hub and screw the cap on the other end for a driving surface. This also works well with bearings on long shafts such as transmissions as you can get a pipe section long enough to clear the shaft. If the pipe isn't quite the right size try a smaller size pipe with a coupler attached. Here's one I made to press a bearing at my job.
 

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Me again,

Thanks for the posts. Bill, I've made a note of your solution- good thinking.

I tapped the new bearing race from the back until the old race fell out. So everything is fine again.

The new bearing is still tight in the hub and only needs 5mm before it is seated. I'm thinking that if I install the hub it will be seated when I tighten the spindle nut. Or is that another blunder waiting to happen.

Cheers
 
Not a good idea, you'd be pulling it in by the inner race and would probably wind up with a hand full of bearings, sort of like driving it out in reverse. It needs to be fully seated by driving or pressing on the outer race only.
 
AGREE! It definitely needs to be properly seated 1st!

Find some way to either press it in, tap it in, or take it to a shop that has a press.

-Bear-
 
If you have a small punch no bigger than the outer race and are very careful and gentle you can tap it in by light taps alternating from one side to the other. If one side gets ahead of the other it will bind and could do damage! That would be the easiest at this time. Also must be careful to keep pressure to the outside so you don't slip and damage the balls.
KA
 
nomad said:
Also must be careful to keep pressure to the outside so you don't slip and damage the balls.
KA
Click to expand...

:lol: The things we could say....................................
 
scoutll said:
nomad said:
Also must be careful to keep pressure to the outside so you don't slip and damage the balls.
KA
Click to expand...

:lol: The things we could say....................................
Click to expand...

:iagree: :lol: <span style="font-weight: bold">We think alike!!</span> :lol:

(I think my dad gave me the same advise when he was explaining the "birds & bees" to me...)
 
Yo,

Good news!

Following Bill's advice I traipsed off to the hardware store looking for galvanised pipe or something.
Found these items and they worked perfectly for installing the bearings, the white PVC plug for the outer and that PVC coupler for the inner. I just pressed in the grease seal with my thumbs.
PVC.jpg

Put everything back together and torqued the castle nut to 46 ft-lbs. Disc turned with no effort. Wonderful!

Bad news:

Bolted the caliper back on. Now I cannot turn that disc. Backed off the 2 bolts that secure the caliper and I can turn the disc again. Retightened the bolts to a measly 10 ft-lbs and I can't turn the disc by hand. OK maybe I can, but only if I use both hands and really push. (taking care not to slip and damage my balls- ha!)

Anyone know what's going on?

Jones
 
the torque on those bolts should not affect the gap in calipers. My hunch therefore is that it is an alignment issue. You are likely pulling the front caliper against the disk.Ttry a washer (or a shim) between the caliper and the bracket.
 
Are these new bolts? Are they the correct length?
 
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