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TVR 2500M Triple Weber 40 DCOEs

Rocky_LC

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At Vandenberg Space Force Base.
46F11934-46D1-40F6-A150-300F99D16B9F.jpeg
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DrEntropy

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Sweet, Rocky! I never got further west than a few TDY jobs to Texas, the Norton guys got most everything further west than that.

The Cape and Patrick were in our part of CONUS tho. And up and down the East Coast.
 

Tybalt

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Those cars have some really good lines on them. If you ventured to Vandenberg, you must have a good comfort level with the car following all of your work. Congratulations on all getting out and about in it.
 

Rocky_LC

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OK, I'm still wondering about this. I want to change the primary venturis to 28mm (from 30). I was never able to get them out. What was I doing wrong. Are the white plastic capped air screws holding them in? The venturis would wiggle around, but not slide out.

The new venturis have two grooves and two holes in them. Are there protuberances poking into both holes, or is that to make them common between both throats?

If it is the white plastic caps - how do they come off? Do you just pry them loose? They are on pretty tight (like they are a shrink fit).

Thanks -

Rocky

Weber_Rebuild (12) (Large).JPG
Weber_Rebuild (13) (Large).JPG
 

JHaydon

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Retainers would be on the underside of the carbs. In fact I think it's the grub screw & locknut juuuust peeking out on the right side of the bottom photo (next to the Leatherman tool, covering the X in "SpaceX").

The white plastic caps cover an adjusting screw that doesn't need to be touched (for 90% of applications).
 

Tybalt

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Retainers would be on the underside of the carbs. In fact I think it's the grub screw & locknut juuuust peeking out on the right side of the bottom photo (next to the Leatherman tool, covering the X in "SpaceX").
The white plastic caps cover an adjusting screw that doesn't need to be touched (for 90% of applications).
Yep, they don't just slide out.

Rocky, recall when we were trying to sort out if you had 40DCOE18s or40DCOE151s? Since you turned out to have the Spanish 40DCOE151s that meant that it had those lock nuts and grub screws to secure the aux venturis. They have to come out before you can remove the main venturis. Go back and take a look at posts 26, 33 and 39 as well as some of the nearby posts from the Dr.
 

Rocky_LC

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OK…. I’ll give it another try.

I know the grub screws are removed for the aux venturies, and expect to take these out first.

I’ll report back soon!

Anyway saw this, and I’m pretty convinced those plastic capped screws have something poking into the holes in the main Venturi’s holding them in place.

 

JHaydon

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They do not. They are an idle mixture bypass screw. If they had to come out for the venturis to come out, they wouldn't be capped off. They are capped off because Weber doesn't want you to touch them once they're adjusted -- they DO, however, want you to change venturis easily.
 
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JHaydon

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They slide out. They do make a puller, but have never used one.
If the venturi is well and truly jammed and corroded in place, you can make your own puller. Details and photos are in the invaluable Des Hammill book How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto Carburettors. It's basically two pieces of bar stock and a threaded rod or bolt between them. One bar sits across the throat opening and the other bar presses against the venturi. The trick is that you need to contour the ends of that bar to match the radius of the venturi to prevent damaging it. And then you need to make a different one if you need to remove a different size.

If they are not badly corroded, some penetrating oil may help to loosen them. Light taps with a mallet on a wooden dowel may also knock them loose.

The new venturis have two grooves and two holes in them. Are there protuberances poking into both holes, or is that to make them common between both throats?
Sorry, I overlooked this question earlier. Your second thought is correct -- if they had only one groove and one hole, there would be a left hand and a right hand version. Double the holes and grooves makes them universal.
 

Rocky_LC

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Good news and bad news (for me).

Good News: I got the primary venturis out. They are absolutely being held in the bores by the screws underneath the white caps. Backing them out 8 half turns will release the chokes.

I knew the chokes had something physically interfering with their removal, because I could wiggle them around, and they would move slightly.

Bad News: The 28mm chokes I bought are the same size as the ones in car now! Dad gummit!

Somehow, I convinced myself the car had 30mm chokes in it! I think it was because of some of the paperwork I read (from back in 2005). I also thought I measured them, but I guess with not being able to remove them from the carb body, I couldn’t really get a good reading on them.

Now the question is…. Continue with the replacement of 4 more Venturi (for practice), swap the two back to the originals (to keep a matching set of 6), or drive it like it is now?

Dag Nabit!

Rocky
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1668C3B5-8F6C-4512-8701-58FFC0BFA6BC.jpeg
 

Rocky_LC

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I should have read more carefully…. Part Number of the Weber Chokes was 72303.280!
 

Rocky_LC

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Yep…. I’m back to my original configuration.

Anyone need a nice set of 6 28mm chokes (Venturi) for a DCOE 40? PM me!

The blue silicone line goes to my remote coolant storage overflow tank. As you know, TVR has used header tanks in various configurations with these engines.

The “stock” header tank (which had been highly modified) that was installed when I got the car had rusted through, and was unrepairable.

The stock replacement tank that I got from the UK didn’t fit with the triple Weber setup, it had major interference with the manifold mounting, hose layout and throttle linkage to the front carb. So I came up with an an alternative solution. Has worked well for a year!


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Tybalt

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Rocky,

Truth be known, I was more curious about the "hydraulic system" marking tape that is on what looks to be a formed section of -6 CRES tubing that comes off the inlet manifold behind the middle carburetor. The tube stock and bending tools are easy enough to come by, but having that marking tape is unusual. Where did you round that marking tape? It also looks like you are using some of the blue fabric covered Aeroquip (or similar) hose to finish up the vacuum run to the servo. I used that "blue hose" to hook up my oil separator and PCV valve as well as the brake servo.

As for the silicone hoses, the short, upper hose comes off the heater valve location, easy enough to figure out. Given that I was operating under the assumption that the other silicon ran to the heater core from the water pump housing. I have to ask, how is the heater core tied into the rest of the cooling system on your car?
 

Grantura_MKI

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I was referencing the pipe at the top of the center inlet manifold that is hardline and switches to blue behind the motor.
Yes, several styles where used on the triumph engined cars.
 

DrEntropy

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Wow. I missed keeping up with this thread. Been preoccupied with some actual "work" stuff.

Glad you found the AlfaBB thread Gordon posted, Rocky. I'd say put the originals back in and drive. Screw the air corrector needles back in the four turns and use a dab of nail polish to help secure 'em.
 

Rocky_LC

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Yep…. The thin aluminum tube (with the special striping) running to the servo came from a local surplus store here in Tucson that has a lot of aerospace stuff. It was prebent, and fit perfectly to make the corner around the back of the valve cover.

The heater is plumbed via the blue tube on top (as noted), and via another silicon tube that’s hidden by the bigger duct. The engine has the metal tube that comes off the water pump, and runs to back of the engine.
 
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