TRF MAGIC CLUTCH

[machinemd]

Hi All,
Once again I need to pick on the minds of the experienced. Over the weekend I found that I could use a clutch for my 74 TR6. I checked the catalogs which raised a couple of questions. Does anybody have any experience and/or an opinion good or bad on TRFs Magic Clutch? And, their description of "operates easily", does this mean a lighter foot? Is it more like say a Spitfire or just a lighter pressure than a stock TR6? Do any mixed combos of disc/pressure plate result in a lighter foot pressure? Any and all opinions would be appreciated. Just want to get it right the first time.
Thanks, Steve

 

[trboost]

Hey Steve,

From my understanding the TRF "magic clutch" is a combination using a Sachs pressure plate (Saab) which has a lighter spring. Be aware that it also has less clamping force (this used to be on the Buckeye site), so if you have a modified engine I would stay away.
I would strongly recomend a Gunst or Gunst style bearing replacment when doing the job. I found this to be the single most obvious improvment on clutch operation smoothness. The bronze carrier is a much better replacement than the original (and usually worn) steel carrier.
I have used the B&B with good results but the pedal pressure is a little heavy, although I have to say I am used to it & like the feel.
All this is for naught because I'll be using a Toyota 5 speed in a few weeks. Opinions are that the new clutch in the conversion is much lighter with the hydraulic T/O bearing set up. I post the results.

 

[Tosh]

Steve,
Been using Magic Clutch for two years with no problem. However it is not a clutch setup to recommend to your daughter or wife because, (1) action is very heavy compared to that of my BGT and (2) it is quite noisy in neutral. 'Chirps" when cold and 'rumbles' when warm. Otherwise it has worked flawlessly.

 

[machinemd]

Tosh,
Which throwout bearing are you using? As far as the "heavy foot" issue, living near Boston, when near the city I spend too much time on the pedal! I've had a Spitfire for years and the clutch is light with no slippage....I love it! The TR6 is such a contrast.
Steve

 

[Tosh]

Steve,
I believe it is a from Toyota land cruiser application or some such. It was, as I recall (during installation) an impressive piece of engineering compared to the stock unit.
There is a lot of thoughtfully researched experiential data at
https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ on this and other clutch/throwout bearing applications. Some of which may cause you distress at some of the conclusions the writer(s) reached.
As for city driving in my TR6, believe me, I move the selector to neutral at all red lights!
Tosh

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

If a heavy clutch pedal is a concern, a big part of the problem is that *all* the modern pressure plates for TR6 have heavier springs than original. No one is currently making a TR4-6 pressure plate with the original spring pressures. The best solutions might be:

1. Have an original pressure plate rebuilt (if you have or can find one). Revington TR in England rebuilds them. Perhaps someone in the U.S. is doing so, too. At the same time, make sure all other clutch release mechanism parts are in top condition, there is little room for error.

2. If you choose or are forced to use one of the modern, heavier-spring pressure plates, use Herman van den Akker's hydraulic clutch release, see https://www.blindmoosefab.com/hvda.htm. Alternatively, you can get a similar type release from other sources such as Tilton, McLeod, Quartermaster, Howe Racing or Day Motorsport, some fabrication will be needed to make em fit. Herman offers the release for use with TR clutches and gearboxes, too, not just the Toyota five speed conversion you'll see at that website. In England, Cambridge Motorsport, Revington TR and Racetorations offer kits. Here's what one looks like: https://www.racetorations.co.uk/drivetrain/pages/clutch2.html

Whatever release method is used, if using one of the heavier-spring pressure plates it would be a good idea on the 6-cyl. engine to upgrade the crankshaft thrust bearing, too. Clutch release operation directly effects the thrust bearing and a heavy one will cause more rapid wear of an already somewhat fragile part.

 

[machinemd]

Hey Guys,
After all the reading I guess I'll just have to live with the heavy clutch foot. Still, the release bearing is a whole different game. As I've read over and over the Gunst seems to be the way to go. But I do remember reading somewhere of somebody having melted high temp. grease and repacking good, old, but dry bearings. Any thoughts there? Anybody got a clue where I might have read that?
Steve

 

[Brosky]

When I had my O/D installed by Quantum Mechanics this past summer, John recommended the Saab setup and it is about the same as my original TR-6 clutch. Smooth, but on the stiff side and yes, mine is noisy too. I'm still not sure about the cause but warm weather will get me back on to that issue.

 

[KSROADSTER]

For what it's worth, Auto Zone sold me a complete LUK clutch for my 74 TR6 for $150.......... It seems to work just fine and the pedal is not that hard to push.

 

[machinemd]

KSROADSTER, thanks for the Auto Zone connection. Tho I usually check needs with them, I didn't this time. Do you think the LUK is any lighter than the B&B?
Thanks, Steve

 

[KSROADSTER]

I am a long time gear head, short time Triumph wrench. The throw out bearing was seized in my car when I bought it, and that was the first thing I did. All I know is that it all went together just like any other clutch I have done, and when I was finished with it worked fine. Smooth quiet and very little clutch petal pressure required. I flushed the clutch hydraulics, and put in new fluid too. The pedal is much easier to push than the one on my Camaro 6 speed.

 

[71tr]

FYI - Carolina Clutch carries the LUK clutch kit 19-030 for $134.66. Obviously shipping will add to the cost but it is a good price. No financial interest.