TR6 TRF TR6 Starter

[DNK]

Anybody got a jpeg or diagram of the connection for a TRF gear reduction starter

 

[TR3driver]

No, but it's mighty simple. Big wire goes on the big post. White/red goes on the little terminal.

That leaves the white/yellow (on some TR6, not all), which you can either leave disconnected (but insulated/tied back so it can't touch anything), or hook up with a diode (not supplied) to the WR terminal.

 

[DNK]

What is the white /yellow

 

[TR3driver]

If present, it shorts out the ballast resistor during starting, to ensure a hot spark when the weather is cold (like below freezing) and battery cranking voltage is down. IMO in Seattle, you'll never notice the difference.

Early TR6 (and all previous TRs) didn't even have that function; and some of the later TR6 use a relay instead of the starter solenoid.

PS, on one of my Stags, that wire broke at the starter solenoid, and would touch ground only sometimes, while climbing a hill. That was a fun one to find! When it touched ground of course, the engine would just stop running like the key was turned off.

 

[tdskip]

Don - on a '74 it connects starter relay to coil based on this;

https://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

Assume you are already past this point, but if not;

https://www.thedrivenman.com/british/Starters/solenoid.html

 

[DNK]

On Dan's panel,does he eliminate the ballast wire?

 

[TR3driver]

Dan's panel appears to eliminate the resistor wire ballast, replacing it with a (much more reliable IMO) discrete resistor. But I don't know if the resistor is supplied with the kit or not. If not, you should be able to buy one at your FLAPS. (TRF has them too, but I don't recall the P/N offhand.)

Dan's diagram also shows a WN wire from the coil to the starter solenoid; no idea why WN instead of WY.

 

[DNK]

I saw that Randall and wasn't sure what that was about.

Reason I ask is I have an acquaintance in another forum who is having trouble getting his car to start after installation of said panel.

Hard to trouble shoot from across the states

 

[TR3driver]

Does it crank and not fire? Or just not crank?

If it cranks but doesn't fire; my first step would be to bypass the entire harness, switch, etc and run a hot wire from the battery directly to the coil (disconnecting any other wires to that terminal). Then try to start it (keeping in mind that the key won't shut it off if it does start). If it still doesn't fire, then the problem is not the new wiring harness.

 

[DNK]

I think it doesn't crank unless he puts direct power to it.
In fact I think he toasted a starter already, at least he just replaced it after it not starting. I think he said the solenoid stayed energized

 

[TR3driver]

Ok, so a quick test would be to have someone hold the key in 'start' while probing the starter terminals with a voltmeter or test light. If the big terminal doesn't have power, there is a bad connection between there and the battery (or the battery is too dead to power the starter). If the little terminal doesn't have power, there is a problem with the new harness and/or relay on the "power plate".

 

[TR3driver]

Hmm, which TR6 kit does your friend have? The early kit "with od" doesn't have a starter relay; the others do.

 

[DNK]

Thought they all had a starter relay in them
In fact that is one question he's checking Making sure he has the correct size WR going to the correct part

 

[TR3driver]

If there is more than one WR, then I think it must be one of the kits with a starter relay.

Pull the relay out, connect a test light between terminal 85 (in the relay socket) and 86. Light should come on when the key is turned to 'start'. If not, the WR from pin 85 to the ignition switch is not installed right, or the ignition switch is bad, etc.

If that looks OK, momentarily jumper between terminal 30 and 87. Starter should crank. If not, then the heavier (I assume) WR is not properly installed (or the starter is bad or the power block is not getting power, etc).

If both tests pass, the relay is probably bad or not making good contact with the socket.

Divide and conquer.

Or in engineering terms, use a log approach unless n is very small (and in this case it's not).

 

[DNK]

Just heard from him, says he found a loose ground and now it turns over but no spark at the coil
Latest post
"Update: well I found a ground that fell off, so with that hooked up, the car will try and start in the start position like its supposed too. However wont start yet. I dont think I am getting spark. Pulled the wire from the dizzy of the coil, put a spark plug in it and didnt see spark. "

 

[TR3driver]

Good, sounds like he's making progress.

 

[hondo402000]

My 71 TR6 does not have a relay

Hondo

did the car start properly prior to replacing the starter? I put the same GR starter on my TR6 and had no problems, only 4 wires though, battery, 2 brown wires one from amp gauge, dont know where the other comes from and white red from the ign switch

 

[DNK]

Keith, you came in mid stream.
He's installed an Advance panel
So all kinds of heck can be going on now
If you have any ideas ,I'm all ears

 

[hondo402000]

oops sorry, I have no knowledge of the advanced pannel

good luck

 

[BobbyD]

OK Don.......... here's what I've got:
75 TR6
AAW Harness with no ballast wire
TRF HiTorque Starter

The text came out a little fuzzy in the picture so:
Black wire is from battery
Two yellow 8 gauge wires: 1 from power block & 1 from alternator
The white connector on the starter is the white/red wire from the starter relay on the power block.