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TR2/3/3A Transmission Service TR-2
- Thread starter Redoakboo
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Hey Red, you posted your question in the "Forum Help" forum - which is a place to ask questions about navigating this forum. Since your question relates to Triumph I am moving your thread to the Triumph forum. I will leave a "pointer" in the original forum that will expire in a week.
If you are reading this, you are now in the Triumph forum.
If you are reading this, you are now in the Triumph forum.
Thanks Basil,
Dick Vinal
It is leaking from both sides of the rod holes. I tried to fix new O rings on either side, didn't even slow down the leak. It doesn't seem to be coming out of either of the OD case seems? Now that I have sorted out the clutch slave cylinder problems, it is running. I have only driven in 1st & 2nd gear but, the rest to the transmission seems to be fine. I did put some gasket sealer on the solenoid plate, no dice?
Dick
Dick Vinal
Hi David,
It is leaking from both sides of the rod holes. I tried to fix new O rings on either side, didn't even slow down the leak. It doesn't seem to be coming out of either of the OD case seems? Now that I have sorted out the clutch slave cylinder problems, it is running. I have only driven in 1st & 2nd gear but, the rest to the transmission seems to be fine. I did put some gasket sealer on the solenoid plate, no dice?
Dick
CJD
Yoda
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If you are installing the o rings as per the diagram in the OD manual, then the shaft will leak. The o ring position in the diagram is on the wrong side of the plate. I figured this out by replacing the o rings 3 times, and finally removed the solenoid plate to install them where they belong...on the inside of the box.
John,
I did remove the plate and install them on the inside before I reinstalled the plate, with gasket material? I have the OD manual, pls tell me where it shows this o ring replacement? I may have done it wrong. How do you stop the leak on the other side of the case where the rod comes out?
Dick
David,
I have just finished installing the new O.D. harness and solenoid. I adjusted the bottom gap on the solenoid. I tried to test it; in 4th gear, O.D. switch on, no click or clack? Could the relay be bad? It is original and has been napping the last 30 years. Does it matter which relay I use, screw or spade terminals? $17 versus $209.
Dick
I have just finished installing the new O.D. harness and solenoid. I adjusted the bottom gap on the solenoid. I tried to test it; in 4th gear, O.D. switch on, no click or clack? Could the relay be bad? It is original and has been napping the last 30 years. Does it matter which relay I use, screw or spade terminals? $17 versus $209.
Dick
I did add two fuses at the relay. Is there a way to check whether the relay is bad?
Thanks, Dick
David, new question. I replaced the oil ring on the solenoid side of the O.D. ; took the housing off. That side no longer leaks. I have ordered a 6" 7/64" hard steel drill to try and get that #@&*( set pin out at the lever. I bent two hardened steel punches trying to knock it out. I tried to slip a extra "O" ring over the lever, still leaks.
I tried to set the gap on the solenoid, thought I had it but, it is very hard to move the lever back and forth so, I'm sure it is not right? How easy should that lever move back and forth. Assuming I get the lever off and can install a new "O" ring, and it doesn't leak, I would like to make sure I have the solenoid adjusted right before I install the gear box cover.
Dick
That pin in the lever is most likely a tapered pin so you need to make sure you are driving it out the correct way. It can be hard to tell the small end from the big end but you must drive from the small end.
To move the lever I had to use a screwdriver to slightly open up the clamp on the shaft. I also went a fraction past the 3/16" hole alignment point.
I assume this is the lever that you are trying to remove the pin from?
David
To move the lever I had to use a screwdriver to slightly open up the clamp on the shaft. I also went a fraction past the 3/16" hole alignment point.
I assume this is the lever that you are trying to remove the pin from?
David
I assume I am trying to drive the tapered pin out correctly as the backside had a larger pin head and the front had a recessed hole where you could see the smaller end of the pin. I could not drive it out , through the hole in the lever and bent two hardened steel punches. I could not get my drill lined up with the hole, to close to the case. So, I have ordered 2 ea. 6" 7/64" hardened steel drills and will attempt to drill the pin out. This is nthe only place that is still leaking oil so have to change that "O" ring.
CJD
Yoda
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I assume you know that, as with the driver's side seal, the pax side also goes inside the box and not on the outside between the case and the lever? It goes inside the case between the case and the actuating cam. The drawings in the manual show the seal on the outside, which is not the correct location. I am not sure if the actuating rod can be removed from a fully assembled box to change that seal...but give it a try.
Also, the holes for the locator pins to set the solenoid will get you close, but after 60 years all the boxes are worn and will not likely operate correctly if you just put the pin in, set the solenoid and drive. It normally takes a tweak more open to get the boxes to engage and release positively. I set the solenoid by jacking the car and operating the OD with the wheels off the ground. Tweak the setting until you just get positive engagement, and that will give you a positive release too.
If you are force to drill the pin out, you will need a taper ream to repair the hole when you are done. If you bent the drifts, it likely means you are trying to tap a little off center...at an angle.
Also, the holes for the locator pins to set the solenoid will get you close, but after 60 years all the boxes are worn and will not likely operate correctly if you just put the pin in, set the solenoid and drive. It normally takes a tweak more open to get the boxes to engage and release positively. I set the solenoid by jacking the car and operating the OD with the wheels off the ground. Tweak the setting until you just get positive engagement, and that will give you a positive release too.
If you are force to drill the pin out, you will need a taper ream to repair the hole when you are done. If you bent the drifts, it likely means you are trying to tap a little off center...at an angle.