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Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Transmission Service TR-2

You do not need to remove that pin for the driver's side, which is the solenoid side. For the driver's side you just undo the bolt and remove the arm, and then remove the solenoid/cover plate to get to the seal.

If you use a bolt instead of a pin you will loose motion between the shaft and arm. If you use my recommendation to only use the arm as a starting point that will not be a problem.
 
You do not need to remove that pin for the driver's side, which is the solenoid side. For the driver's side you just undo the bolt and remove the arm, and then remove the solenoid/cover plate to get to the seal.

If you use a bolt instead of a pin you will loose motion between the shaft and arm. If you use my recommendation to only use the arm as a starting point that will not be a problem.
The solenoid is on the psgr side. I did remove the solenoid housing to get to the backside recess for the "O" ring. I removed the cover plate today, loosened the bolt on the rod, stuck a drill bit through the lever hole, and set the gap at the solenoid. The lever now moves well.
I got the 6" drill bit today and will remove the taper pin tomorrow. After it is off the rod, I can successfully remove the old "O" ring and install the new one. Hopefully, that will solve the drivers side leak.
 
A screw will not hold the lever like a tapered pin. You will get movement between the shaft and lever which will increase every time it operates.

As John said the 3/16 locating pin is a starting point but you may have to go a bit further CW to get it to operate.

How much oil is it leaking? Is the OD overfull?

David
 
Are we working on a LHD or RHD car? that makes a difference on which side you call the drivers side.
The plate that you can unbolt and replace the "O" ring is on the LH side of the OD when you are facing forward in the car. The lever with the tapered pin is on the RH side of the OD.

David
 
Are we working on a LHD or RHD car? that makes a difference on which side you call the drivers side.
The plate that you can unbolt and replace the "O" ring is on the LH side of the OD when you are facing forward in the car. The lever with the tapered pin is on the RH side of the OD.

David
LHD
 
A screw will not hold the lever like a tapered pin. You will get movement between the shaft and lever which will increase every time it operates.

As John said the 3/16 locating pin is a starting point but you may have to go a bit further CW to get it to operate.

How much oil is it leaking? Is the OD overfull?

David
According to the dip stick it is right at the upper mark. It leaks about a 50 cent size spot every two-three days. Where am I going to get a tapered pin? No catalog has one? Explain to me what the lever even does, other then giving you a line up hole for solenoid setup? Is it's placement to just keep the rod in place?

Dick
 
OK...I'm lost. On every OD I have seen and owned, the plate with the solenoid is left. I'm afraid you are working on an OD I do not have any experience with.

Taper pins are available from any hardware, industrial supply like McMaster Car, etc. Taper reamers can be found all over Ebay and Amazon.
 
OK...I'm lost. On every OD I have seen and owned, the plate with the solenoid is left. I'm afraid you are working on an OD I do not have any experience with.

Taper pins are available from any hardware, industrial supply like McMaster Car, etc. Taper reamers can be found all over Ebay and Amazon.
See the pic's I sent you. Solenoid on psgr side. LHD
 
And I assume it is the right, or pax side that is leaking??

If so, to get to that o-ring you must remove the solenoid/accumulator plate on the left side, then remove the arm on the selector shaft on the right side, and then the selector shaft must be pulled out of the left side of the OD to change the o-ring between the cam on the shaft and the inside of the case. If your o-ring is outside of the case, it is on the wrong side and that's why you have a leak.

The problem is, I do not know from experience if the shaft can be pulled out of a built transmission. It may or may not pull through.
 
John,

Don't know whether you received the pic's i sent? You were right, the solenoid is on the left, drivers side. I have replaced that "O" ring, no leaks. I was able to punch out the taper pin today and remove the lever. That "O" ring was in pieces. I pried it out, blew it out with my compressor and will install a new "O" ring tomorrow. I have a clean 7/64" hole through the rod and lever. Haven't decided what kind of pin I will re-install.

Dick
 
So the "O" ring is on the outside?

Glad you got the pin out.

David

 
is that woodwork and doping fabric ?
respect :cool:

So the "O" ring is on the outside?

Glad you got the pin out.

David

You know, David, I swore the o-ring on that side was on the inside too, but then I looked at my build pictures...and I can't tell either way. You have built yours more recently. Do you know whether the passenger side has the o-ring outside or inside the case?
 
Outside. Once I got the lever off, I pried out the deteriorated "O" ring and blew it out with my compressor. Moss is sending me two new "O" rings. Now all I have to do is find a tapered pin that will work; Amazon no help.

Dick
 
I never had a close look at the back of the lever when I had my OD on the bench. Had no reason to as my leak was coming from the solenoid mounting plate gasket and later the adaptor plate.

Remember you will need the tapered reamer as well as the pin. The taper is what holds the pins in and makes them such a bear to get out.

David
 
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