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Wedge TR8 Charging Voltage at 15.9

Here is the back side of the 8215 before installation:

TR8Alt1.jpg


The wire harness and the ident for the wiring.
S (red) => Brown sense wire
F (brown)=> Not used
L (brown)=> Brown / yellow dash light wire
P (gray) => Not used
TR8Alt2.jpg


8215 Alternator installed (ignore my wire harness colors I did a rebuild many years ago and did not have the right colors to work with. I need to change that, but that's a project for a cold fall afternoon):
TR8Alt3.jpg


The only real physical differences were:

1. you need swap the serpentine pully for a 2.5" - 2.7" v belt one.
2. You need to move the back plate to re-align the mounting holes (reclocking).
3. The adjustment bracket attach point is not threaded (need through bolt and nut instead)
4. The reach on the hole pattern is different.

The stock A133 alternator I took out was 6.25" across. The 8215 was 5.5". It did not matter. Same brackets & belt on the install.
TR8Alt4.jpg


The final check I did was 14.2 volts no load. 13.4 volts with lights, front & rear fogs & radio on as well as the fans on high. That was at idle :smile:

105 amps at the battery cable in the back by the battery.

Everything runs as it should without dimming or slowing.

It is early, but it sure seems to make the car run smoother.

Given that this idea was lifted from a TR7 and that car had a 35 amp alternator, this would be one heck of an upgrade! Even with my A133 alternator it is vast improvement and should fit in any wedge car.

TR7 (all) = 17 ACR - 35 amp
TR8 Carb / no AC = 20 ACR - ___amp
TR8 Carb / AC = 25 ACR - 65 Amp
TR8 FI / AC = A133 - 75 amp

Thanks for the all the help folks..... This seems like a worth while $115 alternator option... My A133 is at the shop being rebuilt.
 
Good stuff, Randy. Thanks for all the documentation!

Mickey
 
Randy, on mine I just ran 1 long bolt thru both holes
I only was told to use 2 wires
So it looks like on your connection info I used "S" and "L"
Why did I connect the "R" wire back to the case?

DSCF4875.jpg
 
DNK said:
Randy, on mine I just ran 1 long bolt thru both holes
I only was told to use 2 wires
So it looks like on your connection info I used "S" and "L"
Why did I connect the "R" wire back to the case?

DSCF4875.jpg

Don, you have the "S" (red wire into yellow) and "L" (brown wire) hooked up on that picture. You have the Sense wire hooked directly to the battery output, rather then down at the main junction. That will work if you don't have any resistance between the output terminal and the junction. Otherwise it will charge less then optimum.

What is this "R" wire you are talking about???
 
DNK said:
Randy, on mine I just ran 1 long bolt thru both holes
The TR8 is stock with two bolts. So left it that way. I am certain your way works fine.

DNK said:
I only was told to use 2 wires
So it looks like on your connection info I used "S" and "L"
Why did I connect the "R" wire back to the case?

Two wires. One to the sens wire from the junction block I showed earlier. The second one from the dash light which feeds the ECU on my FI car.

I think the way you have yours wired, it will never detect any load and just run at minimum output. I think....

There should be a sense wire somewhere in your harness. At least it is on a stock TR8.

That's what the junction block picture was all about. Lower left is the sense wire feedback to the alternator.

TR8ElecBlock%202.jpg
 
Here goes, ...
Art, the "R" was suppose to be the red wire. I got the car with only 2 wires on the alt, though it had a Rover alt in it I think. I have no other wire there ,I plan on unwrapping it as soon as I talk to Clay about it.

Randy what is the wire you have in your hand in the pic above?
 
There is no "R" wire. I assume "R" means red.

If you look below you can see the letters molded into the black part of the housing. I rotated it to make it easier to see.

What you seem to be missing is a sense wire for the alternator.

From left to right = S F L P

TR8Alt5.jpg


I have no idea what that wire is for...hasn't broken yet :smile:
 
I have that small wire in the top pic and it is not connected to the battery wire terminal. Both the bottom lugs are being used for my FI fuse panel
 
Randy and all, Have finally nailed down my battery hook up and had it installed. Here is the battery wires hooked up with the + going to the breaker.

DSCF6229.jpg


I got rid of the battery cable connection in the passenger side and used this instead.

DSCF6232.jpg


Now on to the carpet
 
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