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I got my replacement bulb holders from RBros the other day and did the rheostat (dimmer switch) replacement job yesterday along with all the bulbs changed and speedo/tach gauge cleaning, etc. The replacement bulb holders use the newer dash bulbs that are spade style with no metal connectors (available at any parts store). After dark, I went out and checked the brightness of the TRF replacement "screw in" bulb that is in the OP gauge and the newer style in the VM and they are exactly the same. Going through the ashtray, I swapped the two bulb holders and again, there is no difference to the naked eye at the brightest spot on the rheostat.
One thing for anyone who has never worked on the back of their TR6 dash without completely taking it out of the car should know. It's a real P in the A but it is easy to see how it can be a nightmare completely removing and then reconnecting everything.
A couple of notable points:
Put masking tape over your lower crash pads to start when removing the wood dash. That came to mind immediately when the dash came forward and needed to rest on the pads.
The wiper switch knob uses a pin plus a spring on the opposite end of the stalk which makes the knob 3 times harder to pull off than the heat control knobs. You think you're going to break the switch before it comes off.
The rheostat knob does not make use of the pin mechanism, even though the spring pin is on the rheostat stalk. It just pulls straight off, albeit extremely hard because of the spring pin.
It does not seem necessary to separate the glass from the chrome bezels when cleaning the gauges and you wont have to replace the fragile o-rings.
Lucas replacement bulb actually did fit and stay in my glovebox light socket.
One thing for anyone who has never worked on the back of their TR6 dash without completely taking it out of the car should know. It's a real P in the A but it is easy to see how it can be a nightmare completely removing and then reconnecting everything.
A couple of notable points:
Put masking tape over your lower crash pads to start when removing the wood dash. That came to mind immediately when the dash came forward and needed to rest on the pads.
The wiper switch knob uses a pin plus a spring on the opposite end of the stalk which makes the knob 3 times harder to pull off than the heat control knobs. You think you're going to break the switch before it comes off.
The rheostat knob does not make use of the pin mechanism, even though the spring pin is on the rheostat stalk. It just pulls straight off, albeit extremely hard because of the spring pin.
It does not seem necessary to separate the glass from the chrome bezels when cleaning the gauges and you wont have to replace the fragile o-rings.
Lucas replacement bulb actually did fit and stay in my glovebox light socket.
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