TR2/3/3A TR3 rear brakes

[SeanTR3]

Quick question about rear brakes. When you remove the wheel the brake drum is behind it. It looks like there are 4 nuts on studs that hold the hub extension on and must be removed before you can access the retaining screws for the brake drum. Is that correct? The brake drum is sandwiched between the hub extension and the hub?

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Sean,
Yes.
D

 

[SeanTR3]

Thanks Dave.

 

[jsneddon]

A point and a question:

Point:

Be sure to tighten these nuts back to the correct torque when you are done. ISTR that it is in the neigborhood of 65 ft/lbs...(or was it 95???) it is in all the manuals. I have had fits in the past with these loosening up- especially the front ones. A torque wrench is your very good friend.

Question:

The little POS flat head screws that you find after removing the knock-off hubs... Am I correct in assuming that these really were for steel-wheel applications so that the drum wouldn't fall off when you are changing a tire? Once you get the hub and nuts on there is no way I can see that the drum is going anywhere.

I ask because I had to drill out two of them to get them off and now I'm running without them.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Yes, I think the sole purpose of the small flat-head screws was to hold the drum while the wheel (or w/w adaptor) was off. I think the drum 'locates' properly w/o them.

Some have to use an impact screwdriver (hit w/ a hammer variety) to remove these if stubborn. This is a place where antisieze is mandatory. There is no reason to over-tighten these screws... they ain't going nowhere once that wheel is on.

 

[SeanTR3]

Thanks for the tips. I'll remember about the impact screwdriver to loosen the screws if needed. This afternoon I picked up a set of impact sockets so I can loosen the nuts. I already have a set of metric impact sockets, but needed to get a fractional set.

 

[SeanTR3]

I picked up an impact driver with bits from Sears and it worked very well on the screws. A couple of hits and they were loose with no damage. It is well worth $25.

I ordered some new brake cylinders and fitting kits for around the hand brake lever. In a week this car should be stopping as well as my truck, well maybe not that well, but much better than it was a year ago.

 

[SeanTR3]

When reattaching the wheel cylinder to the housing there is a rubber dust cover, a spring plate, a locking plate, and a smaller distance washer. I thought the dust cover might go up against the housing on the back side and the plates would press against the dust cover sealing it to the brake housing. However, the plates are not wide enough to hold the dust cover in place. Is it necessary to use the dust cover? When I took the old cylinder off the dust cover was ripped and only the spring plate and the locking plate held the cylinder to the housing.

Any tips for reassembly?

 

[sp53]

Hi Sean yes that is kinda interesting engineering. Yes I think you need the dust cover because the hole for the E-brake is big and most everything works better clean. In addition, you will get water and salt in there if you live in that climate. It is tricky to get the three pieces and the rubber in place. On occasion I have omitted the distance piece and just used the two locking plates because some of the after market stuff is different. If you can, do one side at time, so can look at what you did. I am going off memory because I am at work, but just start the two locking plates on the wheel cylinder with the rubber and with the emergency brake arm in place behind the wheel cylinder making sure that the little fingers on the one tab are pointing down so they can lock in the notch of the other piece- then just tap or drive the two plates together. A clamp might come in handy to hold and squeeze. The rubber is important and having the cylinder pinned in place somewhat tight is important also. Once the two shoes are on all the distance will be taken up. Do not worry if the wheel cylinder is not super snug remember it is sitting on a rubber bed, but it needs to be tight, so it does not rattle. Get a Haynes manual for tr3 they are cheap and provide good information and pictures.

Regards Sp53

 

[SeanTR3]

Thanks for the advice. I'll get back to it in the morning.

 

[sammyb]

Rebuilding the rear brakes were one of my first projects on the TR3. (Rebuilding the SUs were the other.) It's amazing how simple these suckers are, but how hard it is to get simple things off (the locating screws) and back together (the cylinders/springs and locking clips.)

That reminds me...when I did the work two years ago, I never used a torque wrench. Probably time to check those wire wheel adapter nuts with a torque wrench!!!

 

[TRTEL]

Hi Sean, I've got a fifteen year experiment going. Always found the three plates too difficult to do (along with the seal) so I just use the two locking plates. What I've found through the years is that the two shoes wear more uniformly instead of the one shoe on the piston side tending too wear out first. Since I try to avoid rain when possible the only real problem with dirt is still the brake dust.
Tom Lains
Do smear a bit of silicone grease betweem the locking plate and the back plate.

 

[SeanTR3]

Thanks guys. I will get it back together today and post on how it went. I was confused because Bentley says to fit the dust cap after installing the plates and Haynes says to fit the dust cap before the plates. I'll have to experiment and will probably use the 2 large plates and the dust cap as that was the setup when I took it apart.

I think I have it figured out. Once you set the dust cap in place you can insert both plates until they are secure. I used a large pair of channel lock pliers to pull the ends together. Then insert the lever for the parking brake and push the dust cap onto the lever. Once everything is in place there is enough room to push the sides and end of the dust cap into place around the plates since they are not flush with the surface.