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TR-2 Windscreen Frame Disassembly Question

Mark_Gibson

Jedi Trainee
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I'm slowly taking apart all the sub assemblies on my 2, and am stuck as to the best way to get the windscreen frame apart. I've drilled out the 2 (on each side) small and extremely rusy set screws that seem to hold the bottom rail in place, but with the glass and seal still intact, of course it won't budge. I'm having the frame rechromed, and of course the glass and seal are going in the trash, so any suggestions short of C4 would be most appreciated!

Thanks,
 

Don Elliott

Obi Wan
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Keep the seal if it's still good. The new seals are either thick rubber or open-cell foam rubber. My original seal was a black rubberised canvas and I re-used it about 3 times. The thicker rubber is hard to fold and is too thick. The foam seal stretches about 50% in length, making it too thin. The open-cell nature of it also lets water through so you need to put a bead of silicone sealer all around after installation. Even up top as well because the rain that falls on the windscreen will be directed up the slope to the top and through the foam seal to drip on your legs.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/1977/cat/517
 

Banjo

Yoda
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How bad is your old glass. Mine is broken, and I'm on the "beg borrow and steal (ok no stealing) " restoration budget. Maybe I could come up and give you a hand with some stuff in exchange for some of your castoff parts.
I think once you get the bottom rail off, it's just a matter of carefully spreading the frame away from the glass.
 
OP
Mark_Gibson

Mark_Gibson

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Ben,

My windshield is shot..delaminated in 2 corners. I will have a bunch of parts I won't reuse tho, and I'll keep them all in case you need anything. So far I know I'll have all the brake pipes, and stone colored door panels that will be in OK shape.

Keep me posted on your progress!
 

Banjo

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I'm in a holding pattern until my TR4A sells. that'll kick start my project fund. So far I've cleaned up one carb, and want to take a "before and after" shot of the carbs for the scrapbook. Good news is the throttle shafts look good, but the needles are pitted, and some small parts are missing. No biggie, I'm starting a Moss order any way.
I also dismantled the starter to rebuild it and found that the case windings had melted down and were arcing to the case. Good thing I checked it out. Now I'm gonna tear apart an extra starter I have (later style so it won't work on my 2) and see if I can get the needed parts. Then have the armeture tested and order new bushings and brushes from a local shop. But I'll probably tear apart the generator first to order everything at one time.
Thats about it here for right now. We'll see what christmas brings.
Thanks for thinking of me on the extra parts. I was planning on looking for a new windscreen glass anyway, I just figured if you were replacing yours just to have it "perfect" I could deal with some minor problems. But it sounds pretty rough.
 
OP
Mark_Gibson

Mark_Gibson

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Yeah Ben, once I went to the lengths I did on my TR-6, nothing less than that type restoration would be good enough for my 2! I know it will take awhile, but it will be as close to a concours restoration as I can make it! Good luck on selling your 4!!
 

sp53

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Hi Mark yes if your are talking about the little 3/8 long- course threaded screws with a special small headed at the bottom, then yes, after you drill those out of the bottom the frame will separate. You might have to tap it apart with a piece of wood because they wedge in place and the bracket is steel and rust in place even though it sits next to chrome plated brass. You will probably need to either slid out or cut out the bottom rubber to get the other two that will be stuck/screwed on the bottom chrome piece. The brackets are an L bracket that is bent a little more than a 90 degree bend. I would suggest you order a bracket kit from Moss and this will let you visualize what the pieces look like because you cannot see them until it is apart. If you are going to put it back together yourself, tape the rubber to the perimeter of the window. Tape it around and around the class on about 4inch centers then put the glass in the frame then trim it out with a utility knife when you are done. I have done several and the installation is not too bad. I did the first one twice and had to buy rubber again, it is cheap. On another note, when you pull the body tub off the frame was it held down by machine screws and large special ring washers in two spots on the outriggers. I have seen this twice now and it is really bugging me as to why.

George
 
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