The Journey Begins - BJ8 restoration

[Westcoast M5]

I spent a lot of time thinking about how to approach the build before I started. Specifically, how far to stray from the original. I completely respect the 100% original / concours cars and hope to have one someday (whether Healey or another marque). However, with this one I based my decision on the fact that:

1. It needed extensive part replacement
2. It is not a 100M, or other super rare, numbers matching car that would make it wrong not to stay original
3. I want to be able to drive it and enjoy it! In traffic, some weekend road trips etc. It won't be a garage queen.

I am not trying to turn it into a modern car and want to retain the original look , but I believe the following is the perfect blend of modications for me. 100% respect for others ideas of a perfect Healey, from original to V8s, but here is my dream build.

• Jule frame
• Rack and pinion steering
• Electric fan
• 4 wheel disc brakes
• up rated suspension, but still lever shock setup
• Alternator
• Electronic ignition
• 5 speed transmission (leaning towards tremec 5 spd)
• Fast road engine (aluminum head, roller rockers, etc... basically the Denis Welch fast road set up)
• Audio (hidden /Bluetooth, no antennae or other signs)
• Led lights
• Modified original seats to provide more lumbar support and slightly more backward lean.
• Brg (original colour) with a saddle brown interior

 

[Bob_Spidell]

It's your car, do what you want, but I think you'll be missing out on the 'Healey Experience' if you swap out the original gearbox/OD combo. Yes, pretty much any modern 5- or 6-speed transmission is superior, but there's something about rowing through the gears--it's not a bad box, and you'll always be trying to improve your technique--and flicking the switch for 'warp drive.' I uprated my OD accumulator and, after driving over 30 years with the original I changed my technique slightly to take advantage of the quicker engagement, plus I think I'll be preserving my OD clutch.

I wanted pretty much all the mods you listed, so I bought a Mustang GT and left my Healey a Healey (but my Mustang's in Dark Highland Green, only available on the Bullitt editions). Plus, I don't miss 'audio' in my BJ8--it does have the pretty much useless original BMC AM radio--as the sound of the engine is very Zen, and I can listen to music pretty much any other time.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Thanks. I feel really lucky to have this project ahead of me. I don't have a pond nearby, but I need to learn to walk away 10 minutes earlier when I get frustrated (before I decide a bigger hammer is the solution, rather than after)

The frame brackets are for a steering rack. In addition to the brackets, the spindle arms get reprofiled and the rad recorded with an electric fan and mounted at a slight angle to accommodate.
View attachment 55440

Ahh. I had never even considered that, but of course, I now recall you mentioning it when first discussing the Jule frame (I mostly took away from that post how you said Martin wouldn't be doing the substructures anymore, due to health issues__making me wonder how much longer I can keep doing what I do...).

I spent a lot of time thinking about how to approach the build before I started. Specifically, how far to stray from the original. I completely respect the 100% original / concours cars and hope to have one someday (whether Healey or another marque). However, with this one I based my decision on the fact that:

1. It needed extensive part replacement
2. It is not a 100M, or other super rare, numbers matching car that would make it wrong not to stay original
3. I want to be able to drive it and enjoy it! In traffic, some weekend road trips etc. It won't be a garage queen.

I am not trying to turn it into a modern car and want to retain the original look , but I believe the following is the perfect blend of modications for me. 100% respect for others ideas of a perfect Healey, from original to V8s, but here is my dream build.

• Jule frame
• Rack and pinion steering
• Electric fan
• 4 wheel disc brakes
• up rated suspension, but still lever shock setup
• Alternator
• Electronic ignition
• 5 speed transmission (leaning towards tremec 5 spd)
• Fast road engine (aluminum head, roller rockers, etc... basically the Denis Welch fast road set up)
• Audio (hidden /Bluetooth, no antennae or other signs)
• Led lights
• Modified original seats to provide more lumbar support and slightly more backward lean.
• Brg (original colour) with a saddle brown interior

Yep, pretty close to what I want too! Some of those I do have, some are a variation of what's on your listed items, and some I can do without.

No condemnation from me, I didn't even paint mine in a Healey color!

It's your car, do what you want, but I think you'll be missing out on the 'Healey Experience' if you swap out the original gearbox/OD combo. Yes, pretty much any modern 5- or 6-speed transmission is superior, but there's something about rowing through the gears--it's not a bad box, and you'll always be trying to improve your technique--and flicking the switch for 'warp drive.' I uprated my OD accumulator and, after driving over 30 years with the original I changed my technique slightly to take advantage of the quicker engagement, plus I think I'll be preserving my OD clutch.

I wanted pretty much all the mods you listed, so I bought a Mustang GT and left my Healey a Healey (but my Mustang's in Dark Highland Green, only available on the Bullitt editions). Plus, I don't miss 'audio' in my BJ8--it does have the pretty much useless original BMC AM radio--as the sound of the engine is very Zen, and I can listen to music pretty much any other time.

When a then local__Ohio/Michigan__restorer had me rebuild a TR3 overdrive for him, I saw how huge the accumulator spring/piston in it was, taking note that it might be a direct swap (it is).

Because the engagement is so RIGHT #%*@^&+ NOW, I too have resorted to dipping the clutch when energizing/de-energizing the solenoid control.

Wanting to keep The Healey Feel so much, I reverted back to the original side-shifted xmsn, after fitting an MGC all-synch box decades ago. I really missed the shift lever sprouting out by my ankle, and once the C-box started popping out of 3rd, the writing was on the wall.

As far as audio goes, a Monza exhaust provides all that I need! I too have a selection of other sportscars, for when I want music, a/c, and God forbid__a cupholder (though most of the time, I'm still more comfortable holding a pop can between my legs, even during shifts).

 

[Westcoast M5]

Thanks, You guys now have me rethinking the transmission. It may spoil the Healey experience as you suggest.

I do have a car for canyon carving (2017 porsche Carerra GTS cab)

 

[Bob_Spidell]

One part of the 'Healey Feel' most of us, I think, could do without is the slop in the steering, so R&P would be great. I see the Jule's shock plates are fixed; any idea what camber and caster Martin dialed-in?

I've always wanted to experiment with front-end alignment to get the 'just right' combination of response and stability. My BJ8 has/had excessive positive camber--it doesn't appear to have been damaged--and I got some out with the adjustable upper trunnions but probably still has more than 1deg pos. My tires always wear excessively on the outer edge, but I do, on occasion, push the car to its/my limits in corners. Anybody rigged a home alignment shop, and played with caster, camber and toe? Racers?

 

[Westcoast M5]

While I may rethink the transmission, the steering is something I definitely wanted to address. I will have to ask Martin what the current camber set up is and investigate what options are possible for adjustment. As per Bob's question above I would love to hear what others have done with suspension who have found a good setup, particularly one that compliments a rack and pinion setup.

One of my challenges with this project is to think one or two steps ahead so that I can order parts to arrive for the next peice of the project, while at the same time keeping my small workshop from getting cluttered. Also, focusing on one peice at a time to stop my brain from exploding and not having it become overwhelming.

 

[DerekJ]

There is nothing inherently wrong with the suspension set up for a standard road car. It really depends on what you are planning to do with the car. A simple mod is to lower the front suspension by an inch or so and fit a thicker anti roll bar. I’m assuming you have a Phase II BJ8, if so I would definitely consider changing the rear springs as the BJ8 sits way too high at the rear and looks kind of silly.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Agree the rear of a BJ8 looks too high--apparently, BMC was too cheap to redesign the wheel wells when they upgraded the rear suspension--but if you lower the rear you'd have to forgo the resonators. It's hard enough to keep them unbashed as it its (I welded a skid plate on mine).

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Agree the rear of a BJ8 looks too high--apparently, BMC was too cheap to redesign the wheel wells when they upgraded the rear suspension--but if you lower the rear you'd have to forgo the resonators. It's hard enough to keep them unbashed as it its (I welded a skid plate on mine).

BMC learned that in the Phase 1 BJ8 cars the owners were tearing off the rear resonators all too often. So, instead if redesigning the muffler system they just changed the leaf springs.

 

[steveg]

Rob -

If your transmission/OD works OK, you could do all the other stuff and drive the car.

On the other hand, if you are looking at a few thousand $$$ to rebuild it, then you may wish to go for the 5-speed.

You're in a big metro area - join the club and meet some others and prolly get a chance to drive the 5-speed - then decide.

My point of view is different from Bob S's as I bought my car with a worn-out trans (popped out of grears/no OD function). Went for the Smitty kit early on. For me, the Healey experience has always been about the engine.

Didn't see any mention of this: I'd put the 3.5 rear axle ratio high on the list. Works especially well with the closer-ratios of the 5-speed.

Dougie on an earlier thread posted a pic of his great radiator with full shroud and electric puller fan - maybe you can find it by searching.

Consider adding mid-80s Toyota 4-runner 4-piston calipers on the front - they're an easy bolt-on upgrade for the BJ8. Moss sells the kit, but IMO more cost-effective to buy rebuilt loaded calipers from Amazon.

 

[Westcoast M5]

Thanks, trans and od are functional, but would sometimes pop out of second and at a light sometimes hard to get into 1st, despite a fresh clutch. If I stay with the Healey trans it will definately be a full rebuild, so there is a "transmission budget" etiher way!
I will really have to think about the trans and like your idea of either a drive or a ride in a so equiped car. I don't want to spoil the Healey experience, and perhaps a freshly build trans would feel differnt. I will have really think on this one.

Also, thanks for the info on the brakes. Is it possible to do the Jag calipers on all four wheels, or are they really just suitable for the rears, and then as you suggest, put something else on the front?

 

[Bob_Spidell]

re: "... sometimes hard to get into 1st, despite a fresh clutch ..."

To quote a lot of foreign-car mechanics: "They all do that." They do, because first gear in a Healey (MOWOG) gear box has no synchro (same with reverse; just part of the charm). It helps if the car is just barely moving when you try to put it in first or, as one aficionado put it: "Kiss second before putting into first." Denis Welch sells improved gear clusters that all but guarantee to eliminate jumping out of gear (usually, second and fourth are the culprits).

I've always felt the stock brakes on a BJ8 were adequate, even compared to the boosted, ABS'd, 'uprated' four-wheel disks on my Mustang. But, I learned to drive on a Model A with mechanical brakes and have never taken brakes for granted.

 

[Healey Nut]

re: "... sometimes hard to get into 1st, despite a fresh clutch ..."

To quote a lot of foreign-car mechanics: "They all do that." They do, because first gear in a Healey (MOWOG) gear box has no synchro. Just part of the charm.

The trick to getting into first gear is to select 2nd then without changing clutch position go to first it will slide right in no problem .....works every time and no need to lift and dip the clutch or grind it into first .
Dont ask me why as I have no idea , its just an experience trick thing I found out .

 

[Westcoast M5]

That's my go to method as well, but for whatever reason sometimes I just can't tease it into 1st. Have to let out the clutch in 2nd to roll the car six inches forward and then I can find first. I don't think its anything other than the 50 years of wear and neglect...but nothing a set of new DW gears and full rebuild won't fix

 

[steveg]

Some of the Aussies are using Volvo or Jag early '70s Girling 3- or 4-piston front calipers. Make sure the mounting hole centers match the BJ8 as I think the '70s calipers do.

 

[DerekJ]

Bob,

Losing the resonators would would be another improvement. Fit an earlier type exhaust system and enjoy the Healey sound.

 

[HealeyRick]

Bob,

Losing the resonators would would be another improvement. Fit an earlier type exhaust system and enjoy the Healey sound.

I wonder why they added the resonators in the first place? Were they trying to move the car into the GT market with the fancier interior and a quieter exhaust or were there some kind of European noise regs?

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I wonder why they added the resonators in the first place? Were they trying to move the car into the GT market with the fancier interior and a quieter exhaust or were there some kind of European noise regs?

Isn’t it a coincidence that they added a radio to the BJ8’s and then a quieter exhaust?

 

[Bob_Spidell]

At speed, you can't hear the radio--I have an original BMC with a 6" Radio Shack speaker--but it's because of the wind noise.

 

[PHulst]

Thanks! It was a project by itself to get the garage in order.
Before:
View attachment 55310
After:
View attachment 55311

What cabinets did you use?