Richmond VA 1960 Bugeye Bringing Miss Eva back to life.

[hcallaway]

My inspiration as a kid.

 

[hcallaway]

Progress continues.

 

[hcallaway]

Last section for today. Double sided metal. Two sheets thick.

Inside wheel well.


Still need to grind. I did it once and had to build it up some more on the weld area.

 

[hcallaway]

Was able to grind it down. I think the next step is to flip it upside down. I need to find a used mattress.

 

[Rut]

If you can't find a used mattress, a couple of old tires work well.
Rut

 

[hcallaway]

Good idea and easier to get rid of them later. Thanks

 

[hcallaway]

Flipped Miss Eva over. Seems like sort of a milestone in working the metal.

I knew the roll bar was the smart way to keep it off the important parts of the body.

Much better access. The engine stand once again worked to hold the front end and it makes it easy to position in the garage by myself.

I may be at the point for some outside help on the rear of the boot.
He will appreciate the angle.

 

[hcallaway]

I needed to finish up some bonnet issues.
Bent some metal to match up to the profile of the supports on the side of the bonnet.



Etch Primer and will detail out later when all the fabrication work is done.

 

[hcallaway]

I have searched for pictures that show building up Spring Perches. The hangers and associated parts are solid; however, the sheet metal where they sandwich the spring base plate and spring box was replaced. The metal is around a 22 - 24 gauge. I don't feel that is strong enough to support the rest of the spring hanger box if you were to really push the car at speed. I figured you can box in the area around the base plate and against the shut panel.


I had to trim 4 pieces around the base plate to make a tight fit for welding.



It seems like this should give the peace of mind i want and be a pretty simple fix.

 

[hcallaway]

While I am waiting for odd bits and pieces of metal from McMaster Carr I started stripping the other inner panel on the passenger side. I have the lower quarter skin but the metal is sound so I make work around it.

 

[hcallaway]

Cleaned up the floor in the boot where the rear valance will attach.
Someone like bondo, rivets and sheet metal.

Now I have something to work with.

 

[hcallaway]

Fitted and tacked.


This should take any flex out between the springs and also serve as an anchor for the roll bar.

 

[Rut]

Can't tell the thickness of the metal, but did you check for shock clearance?
Rut

 

[hcallaway]

.250 I did not. I basically bought a tub. I will try and go see a BE in person next week

 

[hcallaway]

Off to fab shop loaded into a 7 x 12 enclosed trailer and still plenty of room.

 

[hcallaway]

We finally got started on the rear quarters of the bugeye.





First Step was to copy the shape of the outside of the rear wheel arch. He was going to form the inside where the metal needed to be cut out to remove the rust.

Step Two was to cut out the bad area and then match up the new metal.

Step Three was to fit and finish forming the replacement piece. Brett kept good measurements on the opening from wheel arch tip to tip and height off the floor.

Step Four was to trim and flange the piece and then spot weld.

Step Five was to flange and fit inside corner closing panel. Panel was from Moss and the fit was excellent.

The start to finish on this area was about an hour and a half or less.

 

[hcallaway]

In the picture above you can see the edge of an old patch. We decided it would be easier and less labor to cut and replace the majority of the rear quarter.




He is great at metal work in my opinion. I have dealt with many shops over the years both as a customer and supplying materials.

 

[hcallaway]

You can see the area he replaced and where it was cut.



The only prefab panels I provided were the inside covers and lower quarters. The rest were via English Wheel and Brake.

 

[hcallaway]

Rear valance panel was shipped in from England.

 

[hcallaway]

Passenger Side