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Rattling Noise while Clutch is Partially Engaged Clutch

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gonzo

Jedi Knight
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So what’s this new rattling noise while clutch is partially engaged, and then subsides when fully engaged? Investigating the usual items:
Exhaust downpipes and system are rattle-free. GR starter is working nicely and not hanging up or banging around. Clutch, pressure plate and TO bearing have about 15 – 20K miles and as many years old. Initial thoughts are TO bearing , pressure plate or both. Arrgg
Preparing for the Monterey Meet in September and will be putting about 800 miles on the car. This new noise is worrisome. Any shared thought are much appreciated!
 
Yeah it could be both.

However, a few years ago I ran in to something similar to this, shortly after a clutch rebuild the throw out bearing had worn down to the metal retainer-don't know why ?
 
The clutch is probably fine since it passed the 2nd gear / handbrake test and stalled the engine. I'll try to isolate the rattling to bellhousing later today. If any of the clutch components need replacing - TO, Pressure Plate, Clutch Disk, then all will be replaced. Wear pattern on flywheel will be checked too. To clarify, rattling occurs while in any gear and clutch is near engagement; so there was some rattling going on while the clutch test was being performed. Easy to reproduce, but I hope it doesn't add other elements into the equation, like engine or tranny. Thanks HealeyRick and Keoke.
GONZO
 
So here's an update: rattling noise localized to bellhousing when clutch and gear are nearly engaged. Just whirling noises when clutch is otherwise fully engaged or disengaged. So transmission will be removed this weekend to further assess clutch mechanism - but the plan is to replace T/O bearing, Clutch and Pressure Plate. Early BJ7, so this is the 10 in. one. Checked records and clutch assembly was replaced by me in Aug 1983 and then in June 1998. Both times the Spigot Bush / Pilot Bearing / Bush in the crankshaft was not replaced. So question: When is it advisable to replace the Pilot Bearing / Bush? Is it difficult to remove? Thanks GONZO
 
gonzo said:
... When is it advisable to replace the Pilot Bearing / Bush? Is it difficult to remove? Thanks GONZO
Click to expand...

Whenever you have the gearbox out and, preferably, the pressure plate removed. My engine builder screwed a large bolt or tap into the bush and pulled it out. You can also chisel it to break it up, but you risk damaging the hole in the flywheel. New ones should usually be soaked in hot oil for a few hours before installing. Yours may very well be the cause of the noise.
 
I found a bolt just slightly larger than the diameter of the bushing ID, and threaded it in like a tap. Remove the bolt, shoot some grease into the recess, and reinstall the bolt. Worked like a charm.
 
Transmission pulled and clutch parts inspected: clutch, pressure plate and T/O bearing - all authentic Borg and Beck with stampings - are in excellent shape with minimal wear. Rivets on clutch are recessed well below friction material. However, the pilot bearing / bush is worn and will be replaced. These older parts with approximately 20K miles on them appear in better shape compared to the new "Borg and Beck /AP" clutch kit parts just delivered. And the new parts don't have any B and B stampings on them! Not even the helpful "Flywheel Facing" stamp on clutch disk! Suspect quality is disappointing. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

With a good cleaning, the old original B&B parts will be reused. Then it'll be time to buttoning this thing up and drive! Thanks all. GONZO
 
Where did you get the parts? Have heard from a reliable source that people are putting counterfeit parts in genuine Lucas boxes bought at flea markets. Maybe something similar is happening with drive train parts?
 
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In any case, the blows struck in the video looked to be softer than used with nails and cushioned by the grease

Yeah John but it sure is a nasty way to do it!----LOL
 
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Here are a couple of pics of clutches: one pulled from car with 20K and 20 years on it and the new replacement one. The new clutch has thinner clutch material than the old one. Why is that? Is this typical of new clutches from our suppliers? GONZO

Original Clutch 20K Miles2.jpgNew Clutch AP.jpg
 
gonzo said:
Here are a couple of pics of clutches: one pulled from car with 20K and 20 years on it and the new replacement one. The new clutch has thinner clutch material than the old one. Why is that? Is this typical of new clutches from our suppliers? GONZO

View attachment 49905View attachment 49904
Click to expand...

This is typical today in most of our consumer products it is used to control their product price.
Usually involves a smal price increase but there is less in the pkg, thus preserving their bottom line.

The new style disk you show will work fine.
 
Rattle noise likely due to worn Pilot Bush, so that'll be replaced but the original clutch parts are going back in since they're still serviceable. Is this "false economy" or should the new parts - which are representative of what's now available from profit-driven manufacturers - be installed? Oh, re-read Keoke message, new parts will be installed, but I'll keep the old ones. GONZO.
 
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