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POR-15 is BAD use Zero-Rust instead

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Well I gotr the quote back from the place that odes both PC and conventional painting. To have my chassis blasted, primed with a zinc rich PC then a top coat PC would set me back about $2,000. Whew.

I cannot get the SEM paints here, at least not the corrosion proofing type. I've found something called Tectyl 506 but the problem with that is it states for optimum effect it must be applied over a clean, dry, rust and dust free surface which is impossible to achieve the box sections of the chassis, so again it comes back to Fish Oil or cavity wax.

I'm now getting some quotes for EPRS systems which use low voltage to produce a sacrificial charge through the body, very widely used in the marine and four wheel driving industries.

Mike
 
$2000.00 is insane. That kind of money would be hard to get back.
Why don't you jst have it all bead-blasted and then coat it with Chassis Saver? That stuff is absolutely impervious to stone chipping. It is black which is what your chassis should be anyways. You could do it all for I am guessing less than $400.00 Take that remaining $1600.00 and put it into your interior or whatever.
 
Well I prefer Red though that's not in itself a deal breaker. Will cost anywhere from $150-$400 to get chassis blasted as it's already PC. Who makes Chassis saver? Some paints we cannot get here, although there are other just as good.

Externally is really less of an issue as plenty of choices, in fact maybe too many choices, the inside is trickier but at the moment keeps coming back to Fish Oil or Cavity wax.

Yeah I thought their quote was a bit over the top.
 
Just as an alternate idea for some of you home restorers (like me), I've had decent luck with ~Tractor Supply Implement Paint~ .

Made by Valspar andd available in black. Add the hardener and it's <span style="text-decoration: underline">very</span> durable and can be brushed or spayed. I've done the underside of two cars with it and would use it again. Around $45 USD for a gallon with hardener.

Also, as Mickey says, <span style="font-style: italic">Ixnay</span> on griping about certain products......we simply don't do that here at BCF.
Just tell us which ones you <span style="text-decoration: underline">like</span> and we'll figure it out from there. :angel:
 
I used the Tractor Supply Valspar paint on my tractor implements. When I re-did my tiller, I sprayed it and let it cure for a couple of weeks before using the tiller and it dryed rock hard. Wasn't sure at first because it felt kind of rubbery after it initially dried. Never though of using it on my chassis but I'd bet it would lay down smoothly and produce a good durable finish.

When I did mine (chassis), I used the Eastwood Extreme chassis paint, No hardener and I bought 3-4 spray cans to do the entire chassis. (edit) I first blasted the frame to bare metal, did my welding, put phosphoric acid on any rust, washed it off, and then used Eastwoods Rust encapsulator in my spray gun and let it dry for at least a couple of weeks, Finally top coated with their Extreme Chassis paint (end edit) Thing about this paint (and most paints) is that they need to cure and outgas all the petroleum thinners (or whatever they outgas) which takes a while. Then they are ready for rough service. Read the directions on the can and follow them.

But most important IMO is that they seal the metal from the air to stop the rust process. Powder is good for this because the powder mist is electrostatically attracted to all sides of the chassis outside as well as what you can get inside a piece.

If you want to powder a cast (porous, esp aluminum) item, you have to bake it FIRST before coating to get any moisture out of the casting. If not, you'll get bubbles in the final finish as mentioned by someone previously.

This has been my experience anyway.
 
Mychael said:
Well I gotr the quote back from the place that odes both PC and conventional painting. To have my chassis blasted, primed with a zinc rich PC then a top coat PC would set me back about $2,000. Whew.Mike
Click to expand...

You need to shop around some more. Should come in around $750-1000.
 
OK>.CHASSIS SAVER is made by...
.MAGNET Paint Co in New York
1800-922-9981
Hope that helps.
 
Last word on all this as I don't want to hijack the OP too much.
Had the Son of a friend over to look at the chassis, he actually works in the PC industry. Tells me the coating on my car is very good with no need for concern.

Went on to say that the $2,000 quote I had was realistic but to just change the colour of my chassis from black to red would not be so expensive as you can re-coat over excisting PC with just a clean and de-grease as a prep.

So PC it is.
 
Re: POR-15

This forum is so valuable to all of us, and to the British Car industry (that remains incredibly vital), that I wanted to just add 2 more cents.

I would think it means a lot to help out our supporting vendors and all other reputable companies who provide products and services with good intentions to see our cars on the road for another bunch of decades.

The success of a product depends on many things, like following directions, the vehicle involved, and some fairly subjective personal feelings. Companies and products that survive the test of time do so for a reason.

I think the rules of this forum make good sense and that the more positive we can be the better for all. I've had good luck with just about every vendor and product I've learned of on this Forum, and when a rare issue might exist I've had refunds or credits without the slightest question or complaint.

The product I used to restore the frame of my TR4A is one I heard about on this Forum. With the input of many others here I compared that product to its competitors. I'm sure all the products earn decent marks, and I feel very confident in my ultimate decision based upon the help I received right here.

Just FWIW.
 
Re: POR-15

:thumbsup:
 
Hello gents! and merry xmas and Happy New Year to everyone. I have been out of the loop lately in regards to the project on our TR3A. But we are back into it this winter. One question we have been pondering is: How can you tell if you have a bent spindle. I have seen the correct toe out in the manuals. I beleive we may have a bent spindle on one side and I have been told that these are not very strong and can bend pretty easily. Also, the check valve on top of the brake proportioning valve seems to be a hard peice to find. Any ideas where to get this or what it takes to rebuild it?
Thanks in advance for the help and info!

Bill
 
BJB -- You may want to post this as a new thread as it is a different topic than is being addressed in this one.

That said I will comment --

BillJoBob said:
... How can you tell if you have a bent spindle. I have seen the correct toe out in the manuals...
Click to expand...

To my knowledge TR3A's had toe-in or nothing, not toe-out. I would think you could use a dial indicator to measure any wobble from a bent spindle. I have heard of them flexing in use (knocking the brake pads back enough to give a pulse-skipping soft pedal) and I have heard of them breaking. Don't think I have heard of one bending but anything's possible.

BillJoBob said:
...Also, the check valve on top of the brake proportioning valve seems to be a hard peice to find. Any ideas where to get this or what it takes to rebuild it?
Click to expand...

If you are referring to the vertical check valve that sits atop the 4-way connector (where the brake light switch is) that can be diassembled and cleaned for improved operation. There isn't really much inside it to fail or break. Some remove the guts altogether as it is known to induce brake drag at times. There is no proportioning valve on a TR3.
 
Many products won't stick to bare untreated or non etched metal, no tooth I agree with that. This is common for any type of rust conversion coating ,works great on a rusted surface but needs a etch on clean metal to stick properly. Probably why your POR 15 is coming off in sheets .
 
My brother had this POR-15 peel on good solid non rusty metal, metal was prepped with the correct POR-15 process. I will never use it again.

Use a EPOXY primer instead.
 
hermanmaire said:
My brother had this POR-15 peel on good solid non rusty metal, metal was prepped with the correct POR-15 process. I will never use it again.

Use a EPOXY primer instead.
Click to expand...
most all the restorers out thee who have been around for the last 20 years or so have tried PooR-15....once.
Once you go through the pain and expense of removing all the por-15 and start all over again ....sand down, prep, and use the good stuff....(Zero-Rust,for instance) the whole thing just cost that much more....especially if you have employees.
Now try explaining to your custmer why you have to do the process all over again. who pays for this???
If I can save someone the pain and expense of what I went through, I feel like I have helped.
I noticed at a few trade shows, and car shows the the por-15 booth is not as busy as it once was. people are finding out what the stuff is really all about.
You can fool some of the people most of the time, (they'll get you once...)but you won't get me to be foolish enough to do it again!
I figure I lost a good $700.00 in labor and materials.
My friend who experience the same thing I am sure lost near the same amount.
 
I believe the point's been made. Can we leave this now?
 
You're correct.

Thanks for your input.

Thread's locked.
 
Hillbilly said:
I just want to let you guys who are in-process of restorations that there is a better alternative to using "poor-15" aka POR-15
I have been restoring classic autos since 1976 34 going on 35 years now. I have done many cars which have appeared in national magazines and taken home numerous trophies (FIRST PLACE and BEST of SHOW)
por15 even when used according to the manufacturer's instrustions will end up one of two things....or both...
It will either come off in sheets, or the treated area will rust either way ,
all the time money and effort will end up on the ground in tiny bits and pieces of rust and oxidation.
I know this from personal-first hand experience.
I have lost many man hours of labor and suffered having to redo a job at great expense.
I have found a superior alternative to using p0r 15 ...
It is called ZERO-RUST .(Made and sold by MFG sealants)
I am not a salesman, nor a distributor of this product.
I am merely trying to save another person the pain of experiencing what I have gone through. I cringe when ever I hear of someone using por15. GreenCo.SpeedShop.
Click to expand...
Huh, 34 years GOING ON 35? I'll be damned, I would have thought you'd be going on 63. What a ridiculous statement.
 
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