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POR-15 is BAD use Zero-Rust instead

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I think what we have discussed is use the product that you are happy with, make sure you follow the directions and if there is a problem ,MIGHT be wise to talk to the Co. that makes it.
 
I did not use POR on my frame or elsewhere, I used SEM Rust Shield because I could spray it. The drawback with Rust Shield is it is very hard and brittle.

If ever I do a frame off again, I will not mess around. Media blast, two part epoxy, and top coat with a urethane.

Regardless of what you use, preparation is what it is all about.
 
:iagree: with everyone... prep, prep, prep.
I took my frame to bare metal, degreased, and acid etched then used POR-15 and have no problems. I'm sure if I did not take these steps I might have different results. No problem with POR-15 for me.
 
dklawson said:
...POR will come off in sheets... if applied to sound metal. There is no "tooth" on a smooth surface to help POR adhere... ....The name "POR" supposedly stands for Paint-Over-Rust. My experience has been that you need to get all but flash rust off the surface if you want success... Whenever I have painted over rust (after acid treating), if the rust was heavy it blisters through again....
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Anyone who hasn't yet coated their frame needs to read the failure comments in this thread carefully. They also may wish to Google "POR 15 failures".

I think that is Hillbilly's point - POR is advertised/sold as one thing but its not exactly that - I went the powder coating direction on mine - it's really not all that much more expensive than properly prepped frame for a coating of any brand...and the results are significantly better. My Cobra Replica also was powder coated. Once you have used powder coating, nothing else measures up.

I think it's good this thread was started - POR's reputation is <span style="font-style: italic">way </span> better than the actual product, and it would never be considered by any serious shops - call around to the guys who do it for a living.
 
Isn't that why they call it Poor

I like cheese
 
luke44 said:
dklawson said:
..
- I went the powder coating direction on mine - it's really not all that much more expensive than properly prepped frame for a coating of any brand...and the results are significantly better. My Cobra Replica also was powder coated. Once you have used powder coating, nothing else measures up.
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Apologies for taking this thread in another direction but I'm following it closely as I am working on my chassis now.
I bought this chassis restored and powdercoated ( I should say at this point I have no fixed opinions one way or another), asking around there seems to be two opposing camps for and against powdercoating, those for it will point out it's durability, resistence to salts and chemicals etc, those against it will warn that rust can run underneath it and you'll never know till it's too late, they say it's fine on rigid structures but on the (sidescreen TR chassis) there is too much flexing and the powdercoat can get micro cracks and allow moisture in.
I honestly don't know, we can get POR 15 here in Australia but not some of the other paints mentioned.
I'm debating now whether to sandblast and start over again or stay with the powdercoating, that fact I will be doing more welding anyway has me tending towards a full sandblast.
I may be wrong here but I was under the impression that POR was first developed for marine use which is a very harsh environment if that were the case then you'd think it would be easy for it to protect a chassis.
What I will be doing is flushing the inside of the chassis with Fishoilene (possible known as waxoyl elsewhere), this I know from past use will coat over and seal rust but won't dry properly on previously painted surfaces or very smooth metal.
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Mychael said:
they say it's fine on rigid structures but on the (sidescreen TR chassis) there is too much flexing and the powdercoat can get micro cracks and allow moisture in.
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I've not tried doing a frame in it, but I find that hard to believe. At least the PC I've used actually stays very slightly flexible and plastic. Friend of mine hit a curb with a freshly PC'd swaybar ... hard enough to leave the bar bent by an inch or more, but there weren't any cracks visible even after bending it back to shape. Others have actually coated springs with it and no problems with cracking.

No doubt there are limits, but it seems better than paint in every way.
 
I guess it still comes back to the preparation. You have to take some of it on faith that whoever applies it does a good job.
 
powder coating is the bees knees if :

There's no porosity in the casting. Any pores will bubble the finish.

The part is not affected by heat, some things will be annealed by the heat of powder coating.

These two issues as a rule do not affect our little cars.

I have a polished chrome headlight reflector that was clear powder coated, it's been at least 7 or 8 years ago now. Other than a glass cleaner type wipe down from time to time, it's been bullet proof.

Draw back to the powder coating is the hassle, expense and special equipment.
 
I have not messed with PC. But what little I do know of this stuff, I think your part needs to be baked after the application of the finish material.....correct?
Well this leaves me out. I know the Triumph Chasss are small, but not QUITE small enough to fit in my oven.
Eastwood sells the PC kit and they rally are priced very reasonable.Great for SMALL Parts allowing the di-it-yourselfer a way to save a few bucks.
But....what to do regarding the chassis? Since the Chassis Saver is Black, and is a very good durable product, I think this would be a good route to take.
How many of you out there have tried Chassis Saver???
 
I really like powder coating, but it simultaneously has a lot of drawbacks to the DIY'er.

Just like painting you have to make sure that the item is free from grease, dirt, rust, etc. Any leftover bits can cause failure. Powder coating can also break down under UV light.

At home, if you get your hands on an old oven, and work carefully you can easily powder coat a lot of smaller items (i.e. anything that will fit in the oven). But, if you want to do a chassis, differential, subframe, etc. you need an oven big enough to hold the item, and that's where we run into trouble.

But, on the plus side, most major sized areas have professional powdercoating shops, and quite frequently they are small shops and willing to work with you a bit. There's a local powder coater who will either Sandblast & Powdercoat, or just powdercoat only. So, I take the big bits that won't fit into my media blaster for him to blast.
 
Hillbilly said:
I have not messed with PC. But what little I do know of this stuff, I think your part needs to be baked after the application of the finish material.....correct?
Well this leaves me out. I know the Triumph Chasss are small, but not QUITE small enough to fit in my oven.
Click to expand...

For large pieces, there are IR heat sources that can heat the part without it needing to be "baked".
 
Guys:

This has been a good discussion of the merits of several paint products. But a reminder: Please let's keep the comments as generic as possible without slamming companies. Personal observations about relative quality/usefulness/etc. are fine, but Basil has a policy we need to follow. Check the "Forum Rules" in the Help & Information section.

Thanks!
Mickey
 
I was looking around a few places yesterday. Found one place that was very informative on their website. They specialise in both Powder coating and traditional painting.
They had some usefull information to assist customers to make an informed decisions.
Powder coating. Major pluses - Green, Minimal curing time, resilient. Against - (their words) NOT as good corrosion proofing as the appropriate paint, less colour choices, harder to give good coverage in tight angles.

Painting. Major pluses - Best colour choices,best corrosion protection, better coverage in tight angles. Against - More expensive and labour intensive,long cure times, not green, less resilient then powder coating.

This crowd can shoot just about any kind of paint and if you go the PC route then they do a pre-coating of a zinc based PC for corrosion protection.

They do online quotes so I'm waiting to hear back from them.

As an undercoat preperation my mate from the paint industry suggested a thing called Suncorite (if you can still get it). When he worked in the motor body building industry for Toyota there was a certain model that was very prone to rust in a door sill, they started using this Suncorite and no more rust issues with that model. Used to be made by Henkel paints, so far I'm having trouble tracking it down.
 
Seems to me we are divided roughly into two camps (and not necessarily on the product to use). The camps are those who are doing a large-scale "professional" (full or nearly full) restoration and those who are just fighting the good fight against rust. What works for one group (shop with proper equipment and adequate ventilation) will not work for the other group (home garage shop and nothing but a fan for ventilation). This thread has good information and advice each camp, but there may not be complete crossover with some of these very specialized and strong products (i.e., breath the fumes and they will nearly knock you out).
 
LexTR3 said:
Seems to me we are divided roughly into two camps (and not necessarily on the product to use). The camps are those who are doing a large-scale "professional" (full or nearly full) restoration and those who are just fighting the good fight against rust. What works for one group (shop with proper equipment and adequate ventilation) will not work for the other group (home garage shop and nothing but a fan for ventilation). This thread has good information and advice each camp, but there may not be complete crossover with some of these very specialized and strong products (i.e., breath the fumes and they will nearly knock you out).
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Agreed, I'll be useing a 'shop' for my painting/powdercoating/sandblasting the chassis. I don't have the skill or equipment to do that.
I will be proofing the insides myself though as my domestic grade gear can do that and I'll be useing Fishoilene which is very safe (if more then a little odiferous). The Suncorite I mentioned earlier can be safely brushed or sprayed on ( so I'm told)and a mate who makes his living doing up sidescreen TR's uses POR15 exclusivly by brushing it on chassis.
 
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