TR6 Need clutch hydralic line ideas [TR6]

[ALLAN]

I have converted to the Toyota transmission and am trying to figure out if I should go with the stock hydraulic line with an adapter to the Toyota slave, or have a new line made up. I know some of you have gone with something different than stock and I need some Ideas on what kind of line and fittings to use if I dont go stock ??

 

[Tinster]

Allan,

I went with a braided stainless steel
hydraulic line.

d

 

[Brosky]

I used the stainless steel braided line from TRF. After 33 years, I was pushing my luck with the original plastic line. Surprisingly, it didn't look too bad when we took it off.

I did replace all of the hydraulics and converted to silicone fluid at the same time.

 

[ALLAN]

I will have to check that braided line out---I have redone all my hydraulics and going with silcone too. I know there are some downsides to the silicone but not having to worry about my paint is to much of a plus not to.

 

[martx-5]

I will have to check that braided line out---I have redone all my hydraulics and going with silcone too. I know there are some downsides to the silicone but not having to worry about my paint is to much of a plus not to.

If you have the HVDA Toyota trans conversion, page 22 of Herman's instruction manual specifically says NOT to use silicone (DOT 5) fluid for the hydraulic throw out bearing. He says to use DOT 4.

 

[ALLAN]

Thanks,I have the Conversion Components conversion, it has a Toyota slave cylinder and a fork to throw out bearing.-------Does anybody have TRF part # for the braided line? Moss has one for $50

 

[Tinster]

Allan:

I bought mine at
a local speed shop for $37.

d

 

[ALLAN]

Tinster, was it an exact fit, what application was it for? What brand and part number?

 

[Brosky]

Allan:

This is the TRF hose, with their slave.

Don't bother adding the oil drips on the header like a certain guy with sloppy, oily hands did after changing the oil and filter today.

One thing about TR6 oil leaks. They do keep the frames from rusting.

 

[ALLAN]

Paul, I couldnt find the TRF hose in catalog or web.

 

[Brosky]

Allan,

My mistake. I apologize. TRF was out of slaves and DID NOT sell SS braided line, so I bought almost the entire setup from Moss. The part number for the SS hose is 584-785. Make sure that you get this fitting also, part number 589-140. It goes between the steel line from master to flex line.

I did buy a new custom bent steel line that runs from the master to the fitting before flexible braided line from TRF. They are the only ones that custom bend these today.

Don't bother with the adjustable clutch rod from TRF. So far as I can see, a $40.00 waste of money.

Sorry about the error!

 

[DNK]

Does BPNW sell those?
Hey Paul, who makes your header?

 

[Guest]

The stainless, braided clutch line is a good idea but remember that braided lines will cut anything they rub against. I wound mine with some of the translucent poly split wire wrap material. So, in essence, I am using the braided line to protect the rubber hose inside it and poly line to protect other components from the braided line. Kinda gets crazy.

Paul, a thought, and it may be too late, but traditional U-bolt muffler clamps distort any exhaust pipe to the point that taking it back down becomes impossible. I resorted to using Stainless Specialties' stainless band clamps, lines with multiple wraps of heavy duty aluminum foil (and a strip of asbestos ... not supposed to have that) and these babies seal perfectly, and allow the pipes to come apart with relative ease. If and when you have to do that....I have had to do it 3 times. The clamps are reusable, once.

 

[Brosky]

Bill,

I agree with what you say, but it is probably too late. Well, maybe not, if I were to put a pipe expander inside each side and crank it up to round out the pipes again.

I'm not too worried about it at this point.

DNK, it's a PaceSetter header, coated inside and out with Jet-Hot coating. It runs very cool, actually cooler than a stock manifold by anywhere from 5-10 degrees.

 

[Soup]

Paul - Did you notice any loss in power at low rev.'s and what did it do to the sound of the car?

I'm pretty sure your not using a Monza exhaust. I picked one up last summer as part of all the work necessary to get the car going and I'm really not happy with it. Too loud around Town but fine on the highway. I'm wondering if a header might calm the Monza down a bit.

 

[swift6]

I've found that if you use a two stage tightening method for the traditional U-bolt muffler clamps then they don't distort as badly (affecting removal) and actually seal much better. First figure out where you want the final position of the clamp to be but do not tighten it. Turn the clamp 90 degrees and tighten down. Now, loosen the clamp, turn it to your pre-determined final position and tighten it down. When it time to remove the pipe, I reverse the process and the pipes come apart pretty easily.

Bill, does bring up a good point though about there now being much better exhaust clamps on the market.

 

[Tinster]

Stainless steel hose photo for Allan:

 

[Brosky]

Soup,

I lost no power on the bottom end whatsoever. I actually gained power across the entire range. I have stock exhaust, which sounds great with the headers.

I also have a modified distributor and slightly richened carbs.

I'll let you know how everyone plays together after the tri-carb setup in two weeks.

 

[Brosky]

Shawn,

I agree with both you and Bill and your thoughts are great methods of keeping the connections easy to service.

 

[71tr]

There is usually a braided SS clutch line for sale on ebay, check out auction # 120102816815.