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TR2/3/3A My Reassembly journey

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What we learned today.
My wiper wheel box shafts were worn so decided to get new ones. The chrome piece was a bit messed up as well. Having fitted the old ones and tested them I waited for the new ones to come.
When they arrived I attempted to swap them out. That involved removing the whole assembly from the car. The new ones seemed lumpy as I operated the wiper cable. After a lot of messing around, fitting and removing the wiper assembly I decided that the cable was binding on the box frame. The gear had some play so I got some 0.010" brass shim and used it to push the cable tubes towards the wiper spindle. They run nice and free now. Can push the cable in and out with out binding.

David
 
You’re approaching the end fast. Always the best time of a restoration! Of course it’s amazing how many tiny issues pop up to take up gobs of time.
 
Don't I know it about gobs of time. What should have been a simple job took half a day to get it right.

Glad I started the engine as I found the flexible oil pressure line leaks. New one on order. Got new screws for the fuel tank sender from Moss. Of course they were not the same thread as the tank so I had to tap the holes out and the rear two holes were out of reach of the tap so I had to take the tank straps off the tank again. Held a magnet under the holes as I tapped them.

Glad I am having fun and not doing this as a job. I can see why a professional rebuild costs so much.

David
 
Just like software projects. The first 90% of the work takes 90% of the time, and the last 10% of the work takes the other 90% of the time.

And then you start debugging!
 
It Runs and I moved it under it's own power. I wanted to turn it around in the garage so driving was easier than pushing.

It highlighted several problems. The throttle linkage had some play in the bell-crank and a little hesitation when the throttle is let off. Seemed OK when I checked it stationary but running it was different. New bell-crank on order.
I thought the long rod to the bell crank was adjustable with LH and RH threads but the one I have has 2 RH threads so one end has to be detached to adjust the length.

Tappets need adjusting.

David
 
My next questions.

Across the rear of the tub above the gas tank there are 3 sets of 2 holes. Any idea what goes there?

The chrome strip that goes between the front wings and apron is about 1 1/2" too long. Just clip it off.

David
holes in tub.jpg
 
I believe those holes were for the hard top mounts.
 
Trying to get the Dashboard braces fitted and have an issue with the piece that attaches to the steering wheel support. The braces do not appear to have a hole that will align with the rod. I presume I have it set up correctly.
There is a half hole in the end of the brace that seems to match a hole in the dashboard.
Support.jpg
I got a Tach on e bay that was said to be a TR3 tach. It looks better than the one that came with the car but the body is cast aluminum and I am not sure of the clamping threads size. Not 10-32 or 5mm. Any ideas 5.5mm?

David
 
Clamping threads are whitworth, and the knurled nuts are unavailable new. You'll have to find someone with spares.

All those bolts on the column mount are adjustable. I'd recommend loosening them all, then install all the bolts, including the one you are having trouble aligning. Then start to tighten them progressively. I am pretty sure you have to move that brace to the bottom of the dash strut....I'll look for a pic.
 
Found it. Yep, it uses 3 1/8" washers and goes to the bottom of the dash strut:

XyIQFLu.jpg


Also, when loosening all the adjusting bolts, do not forget the 3 holding the large bracket to the dash. The bracket has extra large holes to allow adjustment. Once all are loose you will be able to find a good hole to attach to.
 
Glad you got it going David; that is a big day. How are the brakes? I mean really-- there is going and stopping-- and the rest is just always going to happen anyway on the in-betweens. I noticed in Johns picture they used 3 packing washers to fill the void in the offset on the stabilizer. I wonder if packing washers were for flexing also?
 
There is going and going. At the moment it is going in the garage only. I need to do a re-bleed of the brakes as I have the first push goes to the floor trick. Using DOT 5 and the one man bleeder tool did not get the job done so I need help there.
It was a big moment to be able to press the starter button and have it fire up and not have ti have a jumper wire to the coil like I had been doing. The altenator works as well now.

David
 
I have the heater in position but am not sure if I have the defrost nozzles correctly orientated. Have a feeling they should go round a bit towards the passenger side.
Anyone have a good photo for reference?

Heater in position.jpg

I am going to wire a relay in to feed the heater and possibly a USB + 12 volt power outlet. It will come off the fuse block at A2 but the relay will be controlled by the ignition switch. Hopefully that will prevent me having a dead battery because I forgot to turn the heater off. Am including a fuse as well.


Relay and bracket.jpg
Relay and fuse.jpg
David
 
Yes, the defroster outlets go on the side, so the doors on the bottom open left and right. Here are some photos from Frank Angellini
PHMZNMZ.jpg


You might want to consider making the USB outlet hot all the time; in case you want to (say) charge the phone you've been using for navigation while you eat lunch. My wife's car has it shut off with the key, which annoys me. It can be a long term risk for running the battery down, but only if you leave something connected for several days.

For anyone else who is wondering, the normal TR3 heater wiring is through the fuse block and ignition switch, so it normally shuts off with the key.
 
Hello Randall

Thank you.
I thought things looked tight but I have heard that Triumph started the TR3 build with the heater and built the car around it.

The Auto-wire diagram I am using shows the heater going to A2 on the fuse block. Good idea about keeping the USB live all the time though. May try to split the 12 volt power supply and USB.

David
 
Hmm, I see that; but I am fairly certain it is wrong. I've actually got an earlier version of that diagram (that I got directly from the author before he sold out) that has the note "Where does this go?" :smile:

The workshop manual specifies to wire it to the wiper switch, which gets fed from A4 on earlier cars (meaning from the ignition switch as I said). When they changed the wiper wiring, I'm fairly certain the heater was connected to the green wire at the fuel gauge (again fed from A4). Somewhere, I've even got a photo of a reportedly unmolested car showing that wire on the back of the gauge.

Then of course the TR4 factory diagram shows it connected to the green circuit.
 
I presume that the heater supply hose that goes to the drivers side loops over the top of the heater? It is very tight in there and I feel that an elbow at the heater connection would make things easier. It seems the hosed are in danger of kinking because of the tight bend they have to make between the heater and the bodywork.

David
 
David, you can see where the hoses come down from the heater in this photo and there is no sharp bends,I dont have any photoes of the heater in place

Graham
P1010208.jpg
 
Hello Graham

I was referring to the connection at the heater where the hose goes straight up and then has to turn to the side. It seems the hose is in danger of kinking.
Heater in position.jpg
I have corrected the defrost tube connection position since this photo was taken. The hose to the other connection is squeezed in between the heater and the bodywork.
David
 
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