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TR2/3/3A My Reassembly journey

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FWIW, I believe the original line was steel, at least on the earlier cars.
Copper works fine though, as long as you support it to prevent vibration.

I don't think the inside diameter has any effect on engine performance; actually the entire vacuum advance mechanism has only a very small effect on performance. And that effect is mostly to reduce fuel consumption under cruise conditions.

But joining the ends of larger tubing might be a bit more of a problem.
 
Randall got me thinking about the vacuum line and he is correct the original ones are steel. I dug this old barn find line off a 1959 that I am 90% sure is stock because of the low miles and it was steel. It also explained why I had so much trouble years ago making a 1961 fit with the 5/16 gas line I used. The reason being the fuel line changed to ÂĽ inch around 1959. I was so used to using 5/16 for my 1958. I never realized they changed. Plus it looks like the fuel line and the vacuum line both had rubber disconnects in the lines, whereas the earlier stuff was one piece.
 

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I have the steel section that goes into the carb with the nut and olive. It is about 3" long. I plan to get a vacuum tube repair kit to join the copper to the steel then the copper to the distributer.

Been working all week on getting panels primed ready for finish paint. Trying to get them all to the same stage of readiness. I hope I have done my last sand blasting for a long time. If I have to do any more I will be buying a blasting cabinet.

David
 
My 3A came with the 3 inch steel tube on the front carb and had a plastic tube going to the distributor with rubber connections on ether end. Interestingly when i was testing the vac line i found the steel section was rusted closed so there was no vac to the distributor , i replaced it with the copper pipe from Moss motors.

Graham
 
I checked that the tube was clear by blowing through it.

Painting the screws and washers for the front wings. Should the door hinge screws be painted body colour?

The paint is laying down good but I got a bit heavy handed in a couple of spots. A couple of runs to deal with.

David
 
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I'm not sure if it is right but I painted my door hing screws body colour, I did get two things wrong . The bracket under the rear view mirror with the rubber buffer for the windscreen i believe should be black, I made it body colour and the bonnet lock plates on top of the fenders should be body colour and i made them black but thats no big deal?

Graham
 
Yep...hinge screws are body color. I’m impressed, Graham, as you got the lower seal to work. The one’s we are provided stateside are too firm to close the door. I’ve tried 3 sets, but no luck with any of them.
 
Thank you.

Have to get the screws in my screw holder. I bought a set from Moss. I notice the body bolts are correct in that they are pointed like the original screws.

The run sanded out nicely.

David
 
John, the lower door seals were a second attempt and they came from Moss UK part 605301 ,I was told they were new stock made with softer rubber and they are much better than the old ones

Graham
 
Couple of random questions.

1 Tail light ground connection. Do you wire all the lights to a common ground point somewhere in the boot area?

2 The padding on top of the doors. Does the PVC lap under on the outside bottom edge and just finish flush in the inside or lap under on the inside as well?

Anyone have a good photo showing the steering column support at the dash end.

David
 
I do the original way, and just scuff where the speed nuts contacts the body metal. Any extra you do will not be in vain, as grounds are always an issue on British cars. My car will never see rain on my watch, so I am not concerned.

The outside rolls under to both retain it and prevent a rough edge from showing. The inside gets covered by the door panel, so it merely gets trimmed near the edge of the metal...no roll under or the metal will fit too tight and the door panel will be pushed out too far.

Are you referring to the side support that runs inboard to the dash brace, the upper brace tot he firewall, or both?
 
It looks like the brace pointing to the right goes to the dash brace. The other one could be bent wrong.

The piece of wood was to keep the brake operated while I did a light test.

Happy with the paint on the fixed parts of the body. Now all I have to do is get the panels to look the same.

David
Paint on scuttle.jpg
 

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Beautiful David!

So you are talking about the little "tab" that goes to the left? Yes, that needs to be bent so it goes to the bottom edge of the dash. I think it connects about where the odometer reset knob goes through. I'll look for pics.

Edit: Nope, I'm wrong. Your car has the speedo on the other side and my TR2 didn't have the bracket. I remember it on the TR3A, but don't remember how it went.
 
There are a whole bunch of steering parts that are listed, but not shown, in the factory SPC.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffMWQ4N2EzZGQtNjc0Ny00YmE2LWFiN2UtZWYzMjNjNGFiYzY4/view

Here's a photo where you can see part of the brace (if its the one I think you're talking about) through the speedo hole

https://i.imgur.com/N6p920v.jpg

FWIW, I daisy-chained a ground wire to all the rear lamps, then ran it around with the harness to the fuel tank mounting bolt. The same ring terminal has a second wire up to the fuel tank sender.
 
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I think David is talking about the spring looking bracket on the left, thats the one i dont know about?

Graham
 
Hello John

That is it. Thank you. Looks like it needs some work to get it to meet the dash.

Got the first coat of paint on the inside of all the panels. Wings, doors and front apron. Getting concerned with the amount of paint left to do the outside of all those panels plus the bonnet. Bit like looking at the gas gauge and trying to guess if you will make it home.
I have about 1/2 a gallon which I think will be close to not enough. So my thought is to take a piece that is finished painted for matching and get another 1/2 gallon which would be used to give the insides of the panels a second coat and the outsides at least 2 coats saving the paint I am using now for the final coats on the outside. That way I will not be trying to stretch the last cup full over something important.
That would make the 2 gallons John suggested for inexperienced painters.

David
 
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