TR2/3/3A My Reassembly journey

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Very Nice David.

Cheers
Tush

 

[CJD]

Very nice!

 

[DavidApp]

Thank you Tush and John

I am a little nervous about cutting the braces out. Plan to fit the doors to check the fit before I cut them.

I will have to start the TUSH style lists of jobs to do.

There is a light at the end of the tunnel and I think I see the finish line in the distance.

David

 

[CJD]

It's a great time in a restoration when you can final visualize what's left to do!

 

[DavidApp]

This is where I will find what is missing from the kit.

I see that Moss does a fake regulator box for those that go with an alternator.

David

 

[Marvin Gruber]

David,
just gut the orignal box for the alternator. Use original wiring and a small jumper wire.
Marv

 

[DavidApp]

Had thought of that but thought there may be a need for an original regulator. If they are readily available I may gut it.

David

 

[TR3driver]

You don't have to gut it; just make some reversible mods under the box. There are two wires attached to the 'E' terminal, unsolder them from the bottom of the terminal. (Depending on the box, you might have to bend the terminal a bit to get the wires off.) Cut the conductor that goes to the 'F' terminal. A Dremel with an abrasive cutoff blade makes really short work of it. If you decide to restore the box, it's easy to solder a jumper over the cut.

Then add a heavy jumper (I used 8 AWG) across the bottom of the A1, A and D terminals (jumping over F). That's it.

When I did my previous TR3A with the 60 amp Ford alternator, I used the original connection between A and A1. Worked fine for quite a few years, but the connection at the base of A1 eventually opened up. That's why I added a jumper this time.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

I have plenty of old ones if you want use one of them. Cheap.
Marv

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Marvin

Thank you.
I have 1 and a 1/2 that I can do the Randall mod to. May need some other parts yet to be discovered missing.

David

 

[DavidApp]

I have modified the regulator to Randall's spec. I may re do the link with some copper strip with shrink wrap as an insulator. Now to decide what goes on the connectors.

There is a wooden block attached to the body just above the hood stick mounting captive nuts. It is just on the drivers side. Any idea what it is for?
I need to get more paint in the wheel arch cavity.

I put the doors back and checked the gaps. The bracing came off and nothing moved. What a relief. Was dreadding having to jack around with spacers under the body.

David

 

[Graham H]

The little wooden blocks are supports for the cockpit caping,there should be one on each side.

Graham

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Graham

Thank you.

A bit of woodworking needed. I have some Maple that should work.

David

 

[Graham H]

David, you can see I have fitted them here ,I must have been desperate to start before matching the body and chassis back together.

Graham

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Graham

Looks like you have a similar white to mine.

I am really pleased with the way the colour is turning out. When they mixed it for me they messed up and got it too blue or gray not sure but they fixed it with a remix.

David

 

[sp53]

Looking good Dave. You are staying with it and the car will be a blast to drive if you have owned before. Heck I still like going for dives now and then just to chill out. Keep up the good work and keep posting.

 

[DavidApp]

I still have the sheepskin flight jacket that I use to wear driving my TR2 in the late 1960s May be too fragile to put on now.

David

 

[Graham H]

This is a photo of my first Triumph,a new Spiti in 1963 i think thats my suede jacket hanging inside. My 3A is new white.

 

[DavidApp]

Need to get back on this thread.

Got most of the wiring in place now using heavy wire from the alternator to the dummy regulator then on to the ammeter and back to the starter solenoid. Got the correct colour wires from British wiring.

Got 5/16" copper/nickel tube to make new fuel line from Amazon and the 1/4" line from Moss..

Started to replace all the body panels to check and correct the fit before painting. Was having an issue with the bonnet to apron fit but managed to correct it by slotting the holes in the square cross support and slotting the holes in the apron where it attaches to the square tube. Then put a skim of bondo across the gap. Not happy with the rear edge of the bonnet as it is a little high in relation to the scuttle. I notice that the bonnet skin is not attached to the rear brace. Should it be free like that or can I put some spot welds to hold the skin down? It may be free to allow the bonnet to move when it is up? It stands about 1/8" proud at the highest point.
Getting ready to start the primming job on all the lose panels.

David

 

[CJD]

It's looking great!