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M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
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Very Nice David.
Cheers
Tush
Cheers
Tush
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TR2/3/3A My Reassembly journey
- Thread starter DavidApp
- Start date
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Thank you Tush and John
I am a little nervous about cutting the braces out. Plan to fit the doors to check the fit before I cut them.
I will have to start the TUSH style lists of jobs to do.
There is a light at the end of the tunnel and I think I see the finish line in the distance.
David
I am a little nervous about cutting the braces out. Plan to fit the doors to check the fit before I cut them.
I will have to start the TUSH style lists of jobs to do.
There is a light at the end of the tunnel and I think I see the finish line in the distance.
David
Marvin Gruber
Yoda
Offline
David,
just gut the orignal box for the alternator. Use original wiring and a small jumper wire.
Marv
just gut the orignal box for the alternator. Use original wiring and a small jumper wire.
Marv
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
You don't have to gut it; just make some reversible mods under the box. There are two wires attached to the 'E' terminal, unsolder them from the bottom of the terminal. (Depending on the box, you might have to bend the terminal a bit to get the wires off.) Cut the conductor that goes to the 'F' terminal. A Dremel with an abrasive cutoff blade makes really short work of it. If you decide to restore the box, it's easy to solder a jumper over the cut.
Then add a heavy jumper (I used 8 AWG) across the bottom of the A1, A and D terminals (jumping over F). That's it.
When I did my previous TR3A with the 60 amp Ford alternator, I used the original connection between A and A1. Worked fine for quite a few years, but the connection at the base of A1 eventually opened up. That's why I added a jumper this time.
Then add a heavy jumper (I used 8 AWG) across the bottom of the A1, A and D terminals (jumping over F). That's it.
When I did my previous TR3A with the 60 amp Ford alternator, I used the original connection between A and A1. Worked fine for quite a few years, but the connection at the base of A1 eventually opened up. That's why I added a jumper this time.
Marvin Gruber
Yoda
Offline
I have plenty of old ones if you want use one of them. Cheap.
Marv
Marv
I have modified the regulator to Randall's spec. I may re do the link with some copper strip with shrink wrap as an insulator. Now to decide what goes on the connectors.
There is a wooden block attached to the body just above the hood stick mounting captive nuts. It is just on the drivers side. Any idea what it is for?
I need to get more paint in the wheel arch cavity.
I put the doors back and checked the gaps. The bracing came off and nothing moved. What a relief. Was dreadding having to jack around with spacers under the body.
David
I need to get more paint in the wheel arch cavity.
I put the doors back and checked the gaps. The bracing came off and nothing moved. What a relief. Was dreadding having to jack around with spacers under the body.
David
Need to get back on this thread.
Got most of the wiring in place now using heavy wire from the alternator to the dummy regulator then on to the ammeter and back to the starter solenoid. Got the correct colour wires from British wiring.
Got 5/16" copper/nickel tube to make new fuel line from Amazon and the 1/4" line from Moss..
Started to replace all the body panels to check and correct the fit before painting. Was having an issue with the bonnet to apron fit but managed to correct it by slotting the holes in the square cross support and slotting the holes in the apron where it attaches to the square tube. Then put a skim of bondo across the gap. Not happy with the rear edge of the bonnet as it is a little high in relation to the scuttle. I notice that the bonnet skin is not attached to the rear brace. Should it be free like that or can I put some spot welds to hold the skin down? It may be free to allow the bonnet to move when it is up? It stands about 1/8" proud at the highest point.
Getting ready to start the primming job on all the lose panels.
David
Got most of the wiring in place now using heavy wire from the alternator to the dummy regulator then on to the ammeter and back to the starter solenoid. Got the correct colour wires from British wiring.
Got 5/16" copper/nickel tube to make new fuel line from Amazon and the 1/4" line from Moss..
Started to replace all the body panels to check and correct the fit before painting. Was having an issue with the bonnet to apron fit but managed to correct it by slotting the holes in the square cross support and slotting the holes in the apron where it attaches to the square tube. Then put a skim of bondo across the gap. Not happy with the rear edge of the bonnet as it is a little high in relation to the scuttle. I notice that the bonnet skin is not attached to the rear brace. Should it be free like that or can I put some spot welds to hold the skin down? It may be free to allow the bonnet to move when it is up? It stands about 1/8" proud at the highest point.
Getting ready to start the primming job on all the lose panels.
David