Low-Profile Electric Puller Fans

[Keoke]

I've got nothing but good things to say about Wizard. Keeping a V8 cool in a Healey isn't an easy task, especially considering the space considerations that limit the size of a radiator that will fit. All the info I could find said a pusher fan isn't ideal as it blocks incoming airflow. Wizard worked with me to modify their Healey radiator to move the inlet to the opposite side to match the Ford water pump and add a shroud to work with the Maradyne fan I mentioned above as a puller. Their workmanship is top shelf with some beautiful welds.

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OH that is a great set up U have there NICK I really like that shroud

 

[HealeyRick]

OH that is a great set up U have there NICK I really like that shroud

Thanks, Keoke. One would have to do some measuring to see if it would work with the Healey 6 in place. I had to remove the front xbraces for the shroud and move the whole radiator forward so I could just eke out enough clearance for the puller fan. But that's the way it is with Nasty Boys, sometimes it's a game of millimeters, not inches.

 

[steveg]

Are you using this without the mechanical fan on the water pump?

TR6 has a heavy crankshaft-driven fan, which I've eliminated. The electric fan runs off a switch in the header tank with an indicator light and override switch on the dash. The fan almost never runs when the car is moving.

 

[steveg]

The Wizard with fan. $719.00
If they can do a pusher why can’t they do a puller!?

Insufficient room between the water pump and radiator. IIRC the radiator mounts will have to be moved forward in order to make space for a puller fan.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Insufficient room between the water pump and radiator. IIRC the radiator mounts will have to be moved forward in order to make space for a puller fan.

I just measured and I have 1 1/2” with one type of water pump and a spare one will give me 1 3/4”. I’m waiting to hear back from Cape tomorrow about what all comes with their radiator/fan setup.
Has anyone done that can post photos and/or measurements for their radiator brackets?
Thanks

 

[bdcvg]

It really looks like all one would need to move radiator forward is spacers on the bottom brackets to move them forward with longer bolts. The top looks like a piece of bar stock aluminum with a slight bend in it and drilled holes to move that forward. I think last month I measured 1 1/4" available space before contact with the X brace.

 

[Keoke]

Nick has pretty well clarified above as to what has to be moved most of the time to install a puller fan..

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Insufficient room between the water pump and radiator. IIRC the radiator mounts will have to be moved forward in order to make space for a puller fan.

What is “IIRC” the radiator mounts? I do not have a X brace. I do have a condenser in front of my radiator. Is there a two speed electric fan available in the Spal version or a way to add more than one speed to a fan?

 

[bdcvg]

With A/C personally I would use a Texas cooler fan and get the Wizard radiator W/O pusher.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

With A/C personally I would use a Texas cooler fan and get the Wizard radiator W/O pusher.

You would over temp the engine here in Texas!

 

[bdcvg]

That #Wizard makes a big difference and nothing pulls more air at slow speed that the Texas Cooler fan

 

[steveg]

II

What is “IIRC” the radiator mounts? I do not have a X brace. I do have a condenser in front of my radiator. Is there a two speed electric fan available in the Spal version or a way to add more than one speed to a fan?

IIRC = "If I Recall Correctly" - apologies for the confusion. There is so little room you are likely to need to move the radiator forward slightly.

You can reduce the speed of a fan with a Pulse Wave Modulator fan control. I'm currently using one of these on my bilge blower:

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

That #Wizard makes a big difference and nothing pulls more air at slow speed that the Texas Cooler fan

I have a original Texas Cooler, increased radiator core size. I’m leaning towards Aluminum radiator with Spal fan on the engine side, removing the Texas Cooler mechanical fan.

Make spacers on the radiator lower mounts and make brackets for the upper mounts. Have a bung added in the radiator tank for temp control for the fan.

Make a shield for the top area between the radiator and front shroud. Make another shield for the bottom of the shroud to the crossmember under the radiator.

At least for right now, that’s what I’m thinking.

Thoughts I appreciated!
Thanks

 

[steveg]

I have a gallery on the baffling I did for engine compartment air control:

Austin Healey Air Control by Stephen Gerow

pbase.com

 

[John Turney]

I have a Texas Cooler fan on my engine, a recored stock radiator (3 row), a condenser and a Spal pusher fan. A couple of weeks ago, I arrived at home with an outside air temperature of 108F and a coolant temperature of ~200F (halfway between 190 and 212 on the gauge), and AC on max.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I have a Texas Cooler fan on my engine, a recored stock radiator (3 row), a condenser and a Spal pusher fan. A couple of weeks ago, I arrived at home with an outside air temperature of 108F and a coolant temperature of ~200F (halfway between 190 and 212 on the gauge), and AC on max.

Where was it 108F ? Dry or humid air?
Do you have any additional baffles?

 

[John Turney]

Where was it 108F ? Dry or humid air?
Do you have any additional baffles?

San Francisco East Bay. We generally have a dewpoint temperature of about 60F, but I'm not sure that makes a difference unless evaporation is involved.

Yes, there are baffles in front to keep air from going around the radiator sides, a two-piece shroud on the back so the Texas Cooler pulls from the radiator and not from the sides. The 13" Spal is mounted in front of the X-brace, so there is a shroud on the Spal exit so all it's air goes straight into the condenser. I see you eliminated the X-brace, so you could mount a pusher against the condenser. Because of that, you should be able to fit a larger Spal. Where mine is located, it comes within 1/4" of the steering tie-rod, and has to be mounted sideways.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

That #Wizard makes a big difference and nothing pulls more air at slow speed that the Texas Cooler fan

I mildly disagree. I had a stainless steel, 7-bladed Hayden flex fan--supplied as a 'kit' with the Nocks' shroud way back when--and at idle it sounded like a Cessna 172 and blew dust out from under the car (it had serious blade pitch at idle but flattened out at speed). It did more to lower idle temps than anything else I've tried, but I couldn't stand the noise. I put in a Texas Cooler and it's quiet but not as effective.

 

[bdcvg]

My ancient Texas fan is showing some stress cracks hopefully the ones Moss sells are as good.

 

[John Turney]

My ancient Texas fan is showing some stress cracks hopefully the ones Moss sells are as good.

I understand that the ones Moss sold at first were not as good, but they have upgraded them since in response to the cracking problem.