TR2/3/3A Local fan belt supplier.

[John_Progess]

The new fan belt on my 60 TR 3 is made in W. Germany and the size is 20 900 LI which is probably is millimeters. It is 3/4" wide and I was wondering if anyone has found a local supplier. I would like to find a belt a little longer as I have to pry it over the generator to get it on. Right now the front apron is off the car and the radiator is empty and would be a good time to change the belt. Thanks and have a good day!

John

 

[Geo Hahn]

I have been able to get a belt at my local FLAPS -- O'reillys. The belt is a Gates (Green Stripe) #TR24379. I like that number. It is labeled a 'Truck & Bus Series' and is 3/4" x 38 3/8" or -- for the rest of the world -- 19mm x 976mm.

The NAPA number is similar -- 25 24379 but the size is shown as 3/4" x 38 1/2".

I'm thinking the original belts were 7/8" wide but the 3/4" seems to work fine for me.

You may find you can't just walk in and find one but it is common enough that they can probably get one by the next day.

 

[TR3driver]

RockAuto has them too. They are cogged, which makes them much more flexible than the solid belts and hence easier to install. And yet you will probably still have to pry a little to get it over the generator pulley. The problem with using a longer belt is that then there isn't enough adjustment to pull it tight. The good news is that they seem to last much longer than the solid belts, so don't need to be changed as often.

Make sure to firmly tighten the lower generator bolts AFTER adjusting the belt (as well as the upper of course). If you leave them loose enough to pry the generator around (which is how I used to do it on other cars), the front bolt will work loose and ruin both the generator and the front mount. BTDT

Also a good idea to replace the Nyloc nut(s) every time IMO. They lose some of their holding power with each install/remove cycle. I've actually switched to using all-metal 'Stover' nuts, because they lock more positively, are not affected by heat, and generally don't have to be replaced every time (though aircraft manuals still say they should be).

 

[mgedit]

Are stover or Nyloc better here than spring washers, which is what I think is on my car? Got things apart now to replace rad, so good time to sort out. Thanks for the part numbers, although I could not find listing on RockAuto site.

 

[sail]

I found Geo's version on RockAuto using part number and a different part number and spec searching under Triumph. Haven't tried either.

 

[mgedit]

Thanks Richard. Was searching on 24379 (no TR) and it did not come up, also was unable to find using Triumph search.

Available on Amazon too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CICC0A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ADG953YR6NRBF

Cheers, Mike

 

[6TTR3A]

I've had good luck with NAPA 25-28386 which is 7/8" x 39 1/4" x 36º (cogged) I get 4-5 adjustments and about 10K miles before I run out of adjustment room. I tend to ease up on what the book says for tension. I've seen too many generators and water pumps fail because of over-tight fan belts. Even though it's cogged, it's still a tight install, but I get it almost over the generator pully then tap the starter button & it pulls it through. Per Randall's suggestion, I've been using stover nuts on the lower generator bolts.

 

[rnpennington]

+1 on Rock Auto. If you go through their menu and look for Triumph cars, you will find all of our models. I have gotten several parts from them. For example, the generators from them are $29.99 instead of $80.00 to $100.00 from the usual suspects (Moss, TRF, etc.)