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TR6 It finally HAPPENED... Hood cable broke but HAPPY ending.

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I read some time ago that there may be a way of removing the glove box and making a "tool" to grab the latch mechanism to open the hood. Maybe someone else knows the particulars of this method and will chime in.
 
RGK said:
My time has come :dejection: Looking for a method of unsticking the stuck if the normal and emergency hood releases no longer release. Anyone try coming up from underneath?
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I just found this video. I hope it helps.
After watching the video it should convince everyone to install an alternate hood release.

 
When I restored my TR 6 ( 1973 ) in 1993 I looked at that problem there was not a kit at that time that I knew of so as in my above post I did not install the hood latch and removed cable. I did think of hood pins like the TR 3. I have yet to see the reason to latch the hood anyway it does not lift at 100 MPH and even you TR 6 owners would not know how to open it. Madflyer
 
My car is a 250, but my search pulled up this thread. I don't think there is much, if any difference with the hood latch. A friend is supposed to be bringing an inspection camera over and hopefully I can thread it up and take a look.
 
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Madflyer said:
I have yet to see the reason to latch the hood anyway it does not lift at 100 MPH
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My e-type had mechanical locking rods on both sides as well as a central safety catch. Without either it would not open moving forward, but under braking or reverse, up she'd go.
 
That guy is way younger than me and you saw how much trouble he had laying on his back and getting out of the car. My days of doing that are over. Don't be a fool. Put in that emergency latch. You'll never use your stock cable again.
 
On the TR4A, you can remove the right front headlight and bucket, then reach in with a long pole. Mine was jammed once, and I removed the hood hinges as well. Then I could raise the hood enough to reach the latch with a wrench and remove some bolts holding it all together. A real PITA, but it worked. Dunno if that would work for a TR6.
 
I got the camera thing and will see if it will help see what's going on. It has a flexible, 1/2" narrow 30" long lens and should be able to get in there. Not in a rush and thanks for the suggestions and comments, but have to agree with pdplot on the video :smile:
 
You might get lucky and be able to use a stout dowel to push the catch-plate arm outboard and release the pin. From the inside, insert it through the choke/heater cable opening and go at about a 45-degree angle. If you can watch with your needle camera great - I did it by feel + trial & error. Once in position, lever the dowel toward the center of the car so the other end will push against the arm. It really helps if you get an assistant to push down on the hood above the pin to relieve some 'up' force. In fact, if the hood got misaligned and the cable is just hard to move (and not broken), relieving the up force might allow the cable function one more timek. The pictures show what you're trying to achieve. Don't use a screwdriver since you are perilously close to the + battery terminal! P1100952.jpgP1100953.jpgP1100954.jpg

P1100951.jpg Edit: Looks like the pictures arranged themselves in reverse order...
 
Gave it another try today with a suggestion received. The emergency one would not push in. The camera helped find it after quite a bit of time getting it into a position to see. Handy thing to have though. I figured just put more effort in the driver side release, but it released after heavily leaning back on it. The emergency one must have slipped past the release when the hood was closed. Thanks for the suggestions and comments :encouragement:
 
RGK said:
Gave it another try today with a suggestion received. The emergency one would not push in. The camera helped find it after quite a bit of time getting it into a position to see. Handy thing to have though. I figured just put more effort in the driver side release, but it released after heavily leaning back on it. The emergency one must have slipped past the release when the hood was closed. Thanks for the suggestions and comments :encouragement:
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Good advertisement for Moss' emergency hood release:

screenshot.2622.jpg screenshot.2623.jpg
 
Be careful with the emergency cable. Friend was looking with me at a TR6 in Florida and when I showed him the emergency cable, he pulled it hard and it went past the stop. Fortunately, no one was watching and I managed to wedge it back up into place. Make sure all parts are tight.
 
pdplot said:
Be careful with the emergency cable. Friend was looking with me at a TR6 in Florida and when I showed him the emergency cable, he pulled it hard and it went past the stop. Fortunately, no one was watching and I managed to wedge it back up into place. Make sure all parts are tight.
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That was my issue. It now has a stop attached to limit its travel. Also was able to get the driver side release working properly. Will remember to check it before closing the hood.
 
Martin Secrest said:
Funny you should mention this. I was looking at my emergency release mod on my TR6 the other week and I noticed that the lever mechanism had come so loose from its pivot bolt and would not have worked at all should I have needed it. So if you have this mod, be sure to check it out once in a while, LOL.
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On my Moss emergency latch, I tapped the holes for both the pivot and stop screws. They can be adjusted to the desired spot or tightness and the locknut on the back tightened up. Not worried about the action becoming sloppy over time.

PS - Is there a picture or link for Macy's emergency hood release?
 
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Not sure who produced this one, it was on the car.

Good
P1020109RS.JPG

Bad
P1020110RS.JPG
 
Oh yeah.... you definitely need a stop bolt so the lever arm doesn't rotate past the open position . Drill and tap a small bolt with a small spacer and do as Steve suggests by installing a lock nut on the reverse to keep.
 
Ralph,
homemade by me several years ago. I have learned to cut and leave tab at bottom of arm that makes a stop to prevent that from happenning.
 
I'll be adding a split shot from my tackle box to the rod that goes into the footwell, should prevent it from being pulled to far. The actual split shot is much, much smaller :smile-new:

Are you getting the bad weather Marv?


Split shot.jpg
 
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