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Head gasket??
- Thread starter bigjones
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bigjones
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With the head still in place, I tried double-nutting one of the offending studs to remove it. Doesn't work. :frown:
Sooo, right now I'm trying to get the durn head back off so I can apply penetrating oil, heat and hammer taps to the studs. The head is on tighter than the first go round!
Ok, so the question is:
<span style="font-weight: bold">Can I re-use the head gasket, if it comes off cleanly?</span>
(Remember, I had got to the final torque of 46 ft-lbs before #5 nut got loose on me.)
Cheers
Sooo, right now I'm trying to get the durn head back off so I can apply penetrating oil, heat and hammer taps to the studs. The head is on tighter than the first go round!
Ok, so the question is:
<span style="font-weight: bold">Can I re-use the head gasket, if it comes off cleanly?</span>
(Remember, I had got to the final torque of 46 ft-lbs before #5 nut got loose on me.)
Cheers
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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Order a new head gasket.
OP
bigjones
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Fair enough. No point in taking a chance on the squashed one.
Thanks for the quick reply, Trev.
PS. Is there anything special about the Moss Motors stud nuts? (no comments from the peanut gallery, please).
I mean, I can get grade 8 nuts, the same height, locally for far cheaper.
Thanks for the quick reply, Trev.
PS. Is there anything special about the Moss Motors stud nuts? (no comments from the peanut gallery, please).
I mean, I can get grade 8 nuts, the same height, locally for far cheaper.
G
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All hardware that I've orderd from VB and Moss turned out to be the same as hardware store stock. I haven't ordered head nuts from them, so I can't say for sure but it wouldn't suprise me. Does ARP offer them?
I find it useful to pound on a bolt head ( or stud) with a hammer some if it's stuck. I also use a small pipe wrench (6")if said stud or bolt wants to strip or won't double nut.
The head will be snug as the copper coat has it glued down good. Might be a good idea to pull the hood and use a hoist or come-a-long to help free it. I don't fight stuff like that anymore, I just use the hoist.
Stupid me, just spin it over. You should have compression now, try to blow it loose first.
I find it useful to pound on a bolt head ( or stud) with a hammer some if it's stuck. I also use a small pipe wrench (6")if said stud or bolt wants to strip or won't double nut.
The head will be snug as the copper coat has it glued down good. Might be a good idea to pull the hood and use a hoist or come-a-long to help free it. I don't fight stuff like that anymore, I just use the hoist.
Stupid me, just spin it over. You should have compression now, try to blow it loose first.
Morris
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If you have the head off, getting the studs out is super easy. Take a big pair of channel locks, and grip the stud from the top. Don't grip as though you are going to turn the stud, grip it as though you are going to bend the stud down to the head. Once you have that grip, wiggle the stud back and forth gently. They usually come right after a little wiggle. You may have to wiggle a little more on the tougher ones, but they will come out eventually.
You can get the ARP stud kit at JEGS pretty cheap:
https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/206-4203/10002/-1
You can get the ARP stud kit at JEGS pretty cheap:
https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/206-4203/10002/-1
OP
bigjones
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<span style="font-weight: bold">Kellysguy,</span>
Thanks for the tip about the hardware.
I got the head off eventually by re-connecting the thermostat housing and gently using a crow bar between it and the timing cover flange.
I did get the head off the ole TR3 by cranking the engine with rope stuffed down a plug hole. Valve pedestal was removed of course, so the valves were not going up and down.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Morris,</span>
Remind me not to shake hands with you. You must have some grip. I tried channel locks then vice grips but no luck. 5 studs came out no prob with double-nutting. The other bad boys are soaking in PB Blaster.
Wow, yeah, good deal on the ARP set. It says 5 days before shipping though and the gal wants to pick the car up soon so there is a bit of a time constraint. I went with the set from BPNW - half the price of Moss Motors. Lets hope its not half the quality. Ha!
Will try your method again tomorrow on the studs.
Cheers!
Thanks for the tip about the hardware.
I got the head off eventually by re-connecting the thermostat housing and gently using a crow bar between it and the timing cover flange.
I did get the head off the ole TR3 by cranking the engine with rope stuffed down a plug hole. Valve pedestal was removed of course, so the valves were not going up and down.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Morris,</span>
Remind me not to shake hands with you. You must have some grip. I tried channel locks then vice grips but no luck. 5 studs came out no prob with double-nutting. The other bad boys are soaking in PB Blaster.
Wow, yeah, good deal on the ARP set. It says 5 days before shipping though and the gal wants to pick the car up soon so there is a bit of a time constraint. I went with the set from BPNW - half the price of Moss Motors. Lets hope its not half the quality. Ha!
Will try your method again tomorrow on the studs.
Cheers!
G
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Use acetone/atf mix on the studs.
Morris
Yoda
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I don't have big hands, just big channel locks. If I weren't so busy right now, I would draw you a diagram of my technique of removing the studs. It does not require much strength at all. It's all leverage. If you don't have giant channel locks, you can use a pipe wrench or large crescent wrench.
I have not bought head studs from BPNorthwest, but everything else I have gotten there has been top notch.
I have not bought head studs from BPNorthwest, but everything else I have gotten there has been top notch.
OP
bigjones
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<span style="font-weight: bold">Kellysguy,</span>
Do ye speaketh of Weasel Pee? The magic fluid used by faithful followers of MOWOG!
Actually, the PB Blaster done the trick and all studs are now out. A major relief. :banana:
<span style="font-weight: bold">Morris,</span>
Thanks for the confirmation of the quality of BPNW head studs.
As for their installation, what is best practice? You would think a coating of blue threadlocker and double-nutted down tight but I seem to remember someone saying you just put them in dry, finger tight and Bob's your uncle.
Cheers!
Do ye speaketh of Weasel Pee? The magic fluid used by faithful followers of MOWOG!
Actually, the PB Blaster done the trick and all studs are now out. A major relief. :banana:
<span style="font-weight: bold">Morris,</span>
Thanks for the confirmation of the quality of BPNW head studs.
As for their installation, what is best practice? You would think a coating of blue threadlocker and double-nutted down tight but I seem to remember someone saying you just put them in dry, finger tight and Bob's your uncle.
Cheers!
G
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No, Bob is my uncle on my father's side.
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kellysguy said:
and given that you are from MS - is also married to your sister right?
Off topic - this am on the news they had the story of the arrest of the last guy who escaped from the prison in AZ - was arrested with his fiance cousin - shallow end of the gene pool that.
G
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Nope, I'm not ~from~ MS, I just live here. I do have a buddy from La who married his first cousin.....but it's his first cousin by marriage.
Isn't Jerry Lee Lewis still with his cousin?
Isn't Jerry Lee Lewis still with his cousin?
OP
bigjones
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Never easy, is it?
Here are the new studs from BPNW. (The 2 to the right are taller to acomodate the (AWOL) lifting bracket and some other bracket for heater hose)
Here the head has been dropped down - notice the studs to the left seem to be too far down in the block.
Every stud, I had tightened down and then backed out exactly 2 turns. I'm thinking of unscrewing the studs until they are at the top of the nut. Whaddya think?
Cheers
Here are the new studs from BPNW. (The 2 to the right are taller to acomodate the (AWOL) lifting bracket and some other bracket for heater hose)
Here the head has been dropped down - notice the studs to the left seem to be too far down in the block.
Every stud, I had tightened down and then backed out exactly 2 turns. I'm thinking of unscrewing the studs until they are at the top of the nut. Whaddya think?
Cheers