Dampner Replacement In or Out?

[kkaa]

Didn't make it today. I thought you might have been exaggerating a bit about the sledge, but your absolutely right! Tomorrow its on!

Looks like the damper I used; mine was extremely tight on the snout, and I know I used an oven to heat it up. I've slept since then, so I don't remember how hot I got it, so I would definitely recommend that you check with the supplier as to what a safe upper limit is. It's a heavy mass, so if you put it in the oven cold and let it come up to temperature with the oven, it will take a lot longer to thoroughly heat the entire damper than it will to heat the air in the oven (satisfying the "preheat" function).

Definitely make sure the snout is smooth and completely free of burrs, dings and high spots of any kind.

Once you get started (you'll see what I mean...) work quickly, wearing welder's gloves if you have to, and don't stop until it's fully seated. Once the damper cools off, it'll be very hard to get it to budge any further.

As a final note, better make sure your socket fits inside the damper before you get started (mine didn't, but I milled the socket ahead of time).

 

[kkaa]

This did the trick!.

Wonder if it would be easier to loosen the transmission mounts and jacking the engine and tranny up together rather than undoing the bellhousing?

 

[kkaa]

Good call on the groove. I replaced the seal to be safe, what a pain pulling the seal out was!

On centralizing, we replaced the seal with a seal press kit, scrapped down the old gasket to the cover itself, replaced. Is there any other trick to be sure its centralized? What im thinking your describing is (and I couild be way off) not putting any timing cover bolts on and snugging up with the old pully, then attaching the bolts?

Kurt

Never done one of those new fangled ones. The stock one can be tapped home with the copper hammer so as a guess that'd be a start and then if it doesn't go all the way crank it up with the nut. 250F isn't very hot in terms of expanding metal so you'll have to be quick as it'll cool rapidly on touching the crank snout.

Look for a groove in the stock pulley near where the seal runs first off and if there is one you'll need to centralise the timing cover as the new hub will rub on the metal lip behind the seal. Recently found that out the hard way. You can use the old pulley for centralising if it isn't pushed all the way home. Andy.

 

[drambuie]

A video would be great! A little French in the audio would be most understanding!

 

[57_BN4]

What im thinking your describing is (and I couild be way off) not putting any timing cover bolts on and snugging up with the old pully, then attaching the bolts?

Kurt

Hi Kurt,

Yea, pretty much but do a dry run first in case you need to take it off again and file out some of the holes. The cover is stamped with some bolt holes not quite in the right place and if you just put the cover on and tighten up the bolts then the seal is not quite on the same centreline as the crankshaft. By putting the pulley into the seal first it makes sure it is concentric, then you'll find the bolts that don't want to go in and make their holes a bit bigger to suit.

Feeling your pain here Kurt, I hate jobs like that which have no nice solution. I'm also planning on fitting one of those units to a race car engine some time this year so this thread is a good headsup as to what I'm in for. Luckily it'll be out of the car.

Andy.

 

[Randy Forbes]

If you want the socket necked down like I did, let me know and I'll give you a quick turn around. E-mail address in my signature pic.

Actually, it might be easier in the car, as trying to install the damper with the engine on a stand could have you chasing it all over the garage!

Although I've seen worse dampers, I saw one (1) that looked as good as yours, until right before it broke the nose off Layne Perkin's crankshaft__broke across between the first main and counterweight. Take a pretty good stereo to overcome that racket...

 

[kkaa]

All done my friends! Thanks for all the help. Heres the video, let me know what you think.


Randy, all set on the socket, i ground this down today, but thank you for the offer. Andy, we did the centering like you said, take a look.


The thing we did differently was baking it at 275. The boiling Im thinking was not effective. Also, did as Andy said and pulled off the cover again, scraped, and re-installed by only placing two bolts on the timing cover first, then the balancer install, and finally the cover tightening....


Heres us installing the balancer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtaRQHW-9iY

This is checking the pully angles, was super worried...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fq_UlciT2fc

This is the final tightening of the now centered timing cover.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaOghTYN5AE

 

[57_BN4]

That didn't look too bad with a bit more temperature. What do the instructions say about lubricating the seal running face?

 

[kkaa]

Andy, wasnt too bad. We walked through the steps a couple times and I think were ready. I will say for sure, that once the balancer started to cool, its quick!

Oil the seal, thats about it. I have a pdf of the instructions, but exceeds the file size here, so Ill post once i figure out the work around....

Im kinda curious about what my timing says now. I was, so I thought, good before but now with the more precise marking, it will be neat to see how far off. Ill post the update when i finish up.....

Kurt

That didn't look too bad with a bit more temperature. What do the instructions say about lubricating the seal running face?

 

[drambuie]

Very glad you where successful this time, with a little more heat it looked like it took only a few whacks with the socket and mallet. Thanks for the video as well!