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Dale:
Don't let the little things on this car kill you; get the $10 seal puller, here's a link to one, pull that sucker out & follow the good directions above about replacing it, it's not that hard. Be sure to have the lip of the seal facing in & lube up the rubber as you slide it over the shaft to prevent scoring it.
https://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.d...pid=00999814000
On the flywheel I would use brake cleaner as it evaporates & does not leave any residue. Also avail at auto parts store. If you are going to pay $200+ to have someone install a $4 seal you may as well give up now.
Don't let the little things on this car kill you; get the $10 seal puller, here's a link to one, pull that sucker out & follow the good directions above about replacing it, it's not that hard. Be sure to have the lip of the seal facing in & lube up the rubber as you slide it over the shaft to prevent scoring it.
https://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.d...pid=00999814000
On the flywheel I would use brake cleaner as it evaporates & does not leave any residue. Also avail at auto parts store. If you are going to pay $200+ to have someone install a $4 seal you may as well give up now.
OP
Tinster
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Thanks Gary, we do have a Sears on-island.
I'll check into it.
$200 for an oil seal sounds like a good deal to me.
Automotive labor here on the island is skyhigh.
I have paid over $1,000. to have 2 rear end oil
seals and a gasket replaced. $800 to have the clutch
master and slave cylinders installed after I purchased
the parts. $500 to have the drive shaft taken out and
the u-joints installed. I supplied the u-joints and I
I crawled under the car and removed all the bolts from
the u-joints.
Is labor much less in the States?
d
I'll check into it.
$200 for an oil seal sounds like a good deal to me.
Automotive labor here on the island is skyhigh.
I have paid over $1,000. to have 2 rear end oil
seals and a gasket replaced. $800 to have the clutch
master and slave cylinders installed after I purchased
the parts. $500 to have the drive shaft taken out and
the u-joints installed. I supplied the u-joints and I
I crawled under the car and removed all the bolts from
the u-joints.
Is labor much less in the States?
d
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Tinster, when you have the new oil seal in and are ready to put it back on the tranny, wrap the front splines with masking tape and a light coating of oil, this will stop the seal spring from popping out, go slowly.
wayne
wayne
SpannerMan
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Tinster said:
Even this piece (from the Moss catalog)? I think I may have confused the issue with the term 'carrier'- I guess that is the piece that the t/o bearing is mounted too. You didn't list it above, so I wanted to check you are looking at it closely if not replacing it. You want a good fit- if there is much slop then the sliding piece can catch on the cover when it is being pushed back.
54 848-000 $57.95 COVER, front
Pete
OP
Tinster
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Pete:
I think this is Moss piece 54?
This is the part into which I think I need to
install the new oil seal. I have this piece.
I do not have the shaft end cap or shaft gasket
Moss shows. Also, I do not have the gasket for
piece 54.
I will order this parts.
Is there any reason I should order a new piece 54?
Thanks,
d
I think this is Moss piece 54?
This is the part into which I think I need to
install the new oil seal. I have this piece.
I do not have the shaft end cap or shaft gasket
Moss shows. Also, I do not have the gasket for
piece 54.
I will order this parts.
Is there any reason I should order a new piece 54?
Thanks,
d
OP
Guest
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Dale, many thousands is a bit high here - for $1200ish you could get a rebuilt tranny with a warranty. Shipping to PR isn't THAT high...
I know you aren't going to go that far, but do invest a few $ in a new seal here. It'll make so much more sense in the long run.
<pep talk>Hang in there, I'm rooting for you. You are still the only guy that puts my tribulations into perspective. I just hope mine's on the road first - it would be pretty pathetic on my part if it isn't. If it is I'll come help you wrench, how about that... Actually I'm halfway there - I'm in FL this week!</pep talk>
I know you aren't going to go that far, but do invest a few $ in a new seal here. It'll make so much more sense in the long run.
<pep talk>Hang in there, I'm rooting for you. You are still the only guy that puts my tribulations into perspective. I just hope mine's on the road first - it would be pretty pathetic on my part if it isn't. If it is I'll come help you wrench, how about that... Actually I'm halfway there - I'm in FL this week!</pep talk>
OP
Tinster
Guest
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Alana,
I am not concerned at all about the cost of the $4 seal.
I am concerned about the incredible length of time
all of this is eating up. I truly thought it would require
a weekend of effort to change out the clutch... after I had
the car interior stripped, that is.
I am now entering month three with not much of anything
accomplished. I am working under a bit of a personal time
constraint-health issue.
d
I am not concerned at all about the cost of the $4 seal.
I am concerned about the incredible length of time
all of this is eating up. I truly thought it would require
a weekend of effort to change out the clutch... after I had
the car interior stripped, that is.
I am now entering month three with not much of anything
accomplished. I am working under a bit of a personal time
constraint-health issue.
d
Harry_Ward
Jedi Knight
Offline
Tinster said:
Dale,
Yes item #54 is part number 848-000 $57.95 COVER, front
Yes the seal is located inside the cover toward the rear.
When you remove the cover turn the cover over and you will see the seal.
Yes you will need the gaskets
697-190 $0.85 GASKET, front cover
697-200 $0.75 GASKET, countershaft cover
848-010 $2.75 COVER, countershaft end
and the seal - 520-060 $3.95 OIL SEAL
No, You should not need a new item 54 cover.
Should come apart and go together fairly easy.
OP
Tinster
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Hi Harry,
I already have the 697-190 front cover gasket
and the oil seal. I also have all the gaskets
and oil seals, etc. that I WAS going replace
behind the flywheel.
The Crypt Car did not have a cover or gasket on the countershaft when I opened up the tranny.
Are you sure I need these parts? If so, waiting
for them will set the project back yet another
two weeeks.
If I need them I will order them.
I can now easily see this clutch install will be
a 6-8 month project. And here I thought it would take
a weekend!
best regards,
d
I already have the 697-190 front cover gasket
and the oil seal. I also have all the gaskets
and oil seals, etc. that I WAS going replace
behind the flywheel.
The Crypt Car did not have a cover or gasket on the countershaft when I opened up the tranny.
Are you sure I need these parts? If so, waiting
for them will set the project back yet another
two weeeks.
If I need them I will order them.
I can now easily see this clutch install will be
a 6-8 month project. And here I thought it would take
a weekend!
best regards,
d
martx-5
Yoda
Offline
The countershaft cover and gasket are items #58 & 59 on this plate from the Moss site. It is located just under where item #54 (the front cover that holds the T.O bearing) goes...behind where the cross shaft is. It's very small, only about an 1 1/2" long, and about and inch high, with two bolts holding it in place. If you haven't removed it, and it's not showing any signs of leaking, just leave it alone. If you want to change the gasket there, just get some gasket materiel at the local auto parts store and make one. It's a very simple gasket to make. You certainly WON'T need a new plate.
OP
Tinster
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"wrap the front splines with masking tape and a light coating of oil, this will stop the seal spring from popping out, go slowly."
And what the Devil is this "seal spring" I know
nothing about?
Today was another dismal failure working on the
Crypt Car. Drove over to Sears to look for the
"seal puller". Nope! None in stock. Asked about
the U-joint press even though it costs a fortune.
Nope! Not in stock.
So I cleaned up the tranny front shaft piece and
got ready to install the new oil seal anyway. I did
not have enough detail to try to fabricte an oil
seal puller. But I messed for maybe 45 minutes trying
to get the old seal out. Nada, no luck at all.
Banjo kindly offered to install it for me if I send
it to him in New york. But I am thinking I have the
wrong seal.
My new TRF seal is hard rubber or black plastic.
The existing seal is metal with a rubber center.
I tried repeatedly to remove the metal seal with
needle nosed pliers- no luck. So I have the wrong seal??
I purchased those funky $40 needle nosed pliers to
take out the u-joint end cap springs. Was I able to remove
springs with them? No!! But a small screw driver and regular pliers worked, in a fashion.
I ground off the u-joint caps on Crypty's drive shaft.
I am afraid to put Paul's drive shaft in the grinder to
get the u-joints apart. I am going to order an arbor
press tomorrow but it still looks like you have grind
off at least one end cap.. Those buggers take forever to grind off.
All in all- yet another almost total day of my life
wasted on the Crypt Car. Not a damned thing accomplished.
Is this the wrong oil seal?? Or should I send the pieces
to Banjo to install?
Thanks,
D
d
And what the Devil is this "seal spring" I know
nothing about?
Today was another dismal failure working on the
Crypt Car. Drove over to Sears to look for the
"seal puller". Nope! None in stock. Asked about
the U-joint press even though it costs a fortune.
Nope! Not in stock.
So I cleaned up the tranny front shaft piece and
got ready to install the new oil seal anyway. I did
not have enough detail to try to fabricte an oil
seal puller. But I messed for maybe 45 minutes trying
to get the old seal out. Nada, no luck at all.
Banjo kindly offered to install it for me if I send
it to him in New york. But I am thinking I have the
wrong seal.
My new TRF seal is hard rubber or black plastic.
The existing seal is metal with a rubber center.
I tried repeatedly to remove the metal seal with
needle nosed pliers- no luck. So I have the wrong seal??
I purchased those funky $40 needle nosed pliers to
take out the u-joint end cap springs. Was I able to remove
springs with them? No!! But a small screw driver and regular pliers worked, in a fashion.
I ground off the u-joint caps on Crypty's drive shaft.
I am afraid to put Paul's drive shaft in the grinder to
get the u-joints apart. I am going to order an arbor
press tomorrow but it still looks like you have grind
off at least one end cap.. Those buggers take forever to grind off.
All in all- yet another almost total day of my life
wasted on the Crypt Car. Not a damned thing accomplished.
Is this the wrong oil seal?? Or should I send the pieces
to Banjo to install?
Thanks,
D
d
AltaKnight
Jedi Knight
Offline
Dale....
Removing the old u-joint is fairly simple, but not easy to describe.
1) remove all circlips (the springy things that hold the end caps in place
2) Rest the driveshaft in the jaws of a vice so that the cap on the bottom side is free to come out of the half shaft
3) Strike the other half shaft with a small sledgehammer so that the spider pushes the end cap out of the driveshaft in the vice, you have to make sure that you're not resting the shaft on the cap you are trying to drive out.
4) Once the cap is nearly out you can grab it with vicegrips to completely pull it out
5) Repeat the process 180 degrees about to drive the other cap out
6) Disengage the spider from the half shaft, easy once the caps are off.
7) repeat with the other halfshaft
I think that's probably as clear as mud. Wish I could sketch a picture for you but I don't know how.
Removing the old u-joint is fairly simple, but not easy to describe.
1) remove all circlips (the springy things that hold the end caps in place
2) Rest the driveshaft in the jaws of a vice so that the cap on the bottom side is free to come out of the half shaft
3) Strike the other half shaft with a small sledgehammer so that the spider pushes the end cap out of the driveshaft in the vice, you have to make sure that you're not resting the shaft on the cap you are trying to drive out.
4) Once the cap is nearly out you can grab it with vicegrips to completely pull it out
5) Repeat the process 180 degrees about to drive the other cap out
6) Disengage the spider from the half shaft, easy once the caps are off.
7) repeat with the other halfshaft
I think that's probably as clear as mud. Wish I could sketch a picture for you but I don't know how.
OP
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
Graham_
exactly the procedure i attempted.
No problem getting the caps to the outside.
Then they would not budge with vice grips,
channel locks or the vice itself.
I had to grind the top off so I could get a screw
driver inside the cap remains to pry the cap out.
But it took much time to accomplish one cap,
Then removal went smoothly.
exactly the procedure i attempted.
No problem getting the caps to the outside.
Then they would not budge with vice grips,
channel locks or the vice itself.
I had to grind the top off so I could get a screw
driver inside the cap remains to pry the cap out.
But it took much time to accomplish one cap,
Then removal went smoothly.
Harry_Ward
Jedi Knight
Offline
Dale,
I'll go with what Bill says below he just did this.
I'll go with what Bill says below he just did this.
OP
Guest
Guest
Guest
Offline
It's the correct seal. Dale, pull that seal with the 8buck seal puller. Like pulling a tooth. The seal will fit. I think that metal showing is part of the cast flange. I have one of these plastic seals (Moss) and a metal lined one (TRF). I installed the plastic on. It was very, very tight. Drove it in with the carcass of the old seal.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Dale, instead of making yourself crazy over something that you may not need to do, why don't you just install the driveshaft that I sent you? I think that the joints and balance are fine, so put it in and drive the car with that much less hassle. OK, if you want wash it down and paint it, but other than that, put the seal in the tranny, bolt things back up and drive..............